Schwintek full wall slide...ARGH!

[jtroop]

The slide extends/retracts an inch and stops. Doing the controller override enables me to fully extend/retract but it goes right back to stopping after an inch once the controller resets. I've done the syncing procedure multiple times to no avail. Fault code is 8 red and 2 green: "Wire short from controller to motor 2."

I'm thinking there is a short in the wiring harness from the controller to motor 2 as the fault code indicates. However, I've seen fault codes before that seemed to go away after doing other checks. So, just to be sure, does anyone have any idea on what else the problem could be?

[lllkrob]

Originally Posted by jtroop

The slide extends/retracts an inch and stops. Doing the controller override enables me to fully extend/retract but it goes right back to stopping after an inch once the controller resets. I've done the syncing procedure multiple times to no avail. Fault code is 8 red and 2 green: "Wire short from controller to motor 2."

I'm thinking there is a short in the wiring harness from the controller to motor 2 as the fault code indicates. However, I've seen fault codes before that seemed to go away after doing other checks. So, just to be sure, does anyone have any idea on what else the problem could be?

Since your coach is still in warranty, or should be, I would be calling Thor and ask them about the problem. If your in Michigan your close to Thor take it back to the factory and have them fix it, they built it.

[jtroop]

I am leaving on a 2500 mile trip in a few days. No time to take to dealer. If I can't figure this out, I will just use the override function while gone. One thing I'm trying to understand, if there really is a short in the wiring, why doesn't this short affect the motor's operation when overriding the controller and sending current from the wall switch to the motor?

[MisterT]

you're right, the indication that it's a 'short in the wiring' is probably just a general statement programmed into the system to mean that it could be 'anything' between the motor and the switch, INCLUDING the motor circuit board wiring itself.

I've seen this myself in several situations with ours. A motor replacement solved the problem every time. Hopefully your motor is in a easy-to-get-to place on your slide, as replacing it is not difficult if you can reach into the area to remove it. I've done this myself.

I've also found that if you call a dealer, such as CW, they want to normally 'fit you in' on their schedule, BUT, if you just show up, tell them your are on a trip and need service right now, they can actually 'fit you in' on your schedule, and have you out that day. Don't be afraid to try it.

If you feel you can replace the motor yourself, and you're a 'tinkerer' and 'mr fix it', anyway, then either order a motor online, stop by a Dealer to buy one(CW many times has them in stock, at the parts department, for about $250 or so), or even call THOR Warranty Customer Service and tell them to ship you a replacement directly since you know how to install it yourself. It will save them warranty money also.

- remove the outside 'motor set screw' at the top of the slide, on the wall behind the slide molding(the slide needs to be 'out', of course)

- inside, at the top of the slide, the motor sits in the wall, in a track, where the wiring harness attaches to it. Remove the switch harness.
(the slide will need to be about 1/2 way in/out)

- the motor can be pushed UP to relieve it from the gear, then tilted back at the bottom to remove it. The motor itself is pretty simple, with a wiring circuit board on top.

- when placing the new motor in the wall, the bottom of the motor has a protruding 'rod', which has one straight edge. This edge engages with the gear when re-installing it, and must fit in order for the motor to sit down fully.
- reattach the plug-in wiring harness

[before you re-install the outside set screw, you can 'test' the new motor by hitting the switch and seeing if it is 'turning' the motor(you can also do this with the motor out of the wall while you hold it)]

the outside set screw simply provides for the motor not to 'rise up' and out of engagement with the column gear.

[MSHappyCampers]

I definitely would NOT want a full-wall slide! Two years ago we were at a CG in Maggie Valley, NC, and a guy had to stay an extra week trying to get his slide in! He had three different techs work on it before solving the problem!

[Crabby Mike]

Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers

I definitely would NOT want a full-wall slide! Two years ago we were at a CG in Maggie Valley, NC, and a guy had to stay an extra week trying to get his slide in! He had three different techs work on it before solving the problem!

Love my full-wall slides (hydraulic), on current and previous coach. But the Schwintek mechanism (which I have on two shorter slides) has been shown time and again to be troublesome on a heavy slide.

[jtroop]

Originally Posted by MisterT

you're right, the indication that it's a 'short in the wiring' is probably just a general statement programmed into the system to mean that it could be 'anything' between the motor and the switch, INCLUDING the motor circuit board wiring itself.

I've seen this myself in several situations with ours. A motor replacement solved the problem every time. Hopefully your motor is in a easy-to-get-to place on your slide, as replacing it is not difficult if you can reach into the area to remove it. I've done this myself.

I've also found that if you call a dealer, such as CW, they want to normally 'fit you in' on their schedule, BUT, if you just show up, tell them your are on a trip and need service right now, they can actually 'fit you in' on your schedule, and have you out that day. Don't be afraid to try it.

If you feel you can replace the motor yourself, and you're a 'tinkerer' and 'mr fix it', anyway, then either order a motor online, stop by a Dealer to buy one(CW many times has them in stock, at the parts department, for about $250 or so), or even call THOR Warranty Customer Service and tell them to ship you a replacement directly since you know how to install it yourself. It will save them warranty money also.

- remove the outside 'motor set screw' at the top of the slide, on the wall behind the slide molding(the slide needs to be 'out', of course)

- inside, at the top of the slide, the motor sits in the wall, in a track, where the wiring harness attaches to it. Remove the switch harness.
(the slide will need to be about 1/2 way in/out)

- the motor can be pushed UP to relieve it from the gear, then tilted back at the bottom to remove it. The motor itself is pretty simple, with a wiring circuit board on top.

- when placing the new motor in the wall, the bottom of the motor has a protruding 'rod', which has one straight edge. This edge engages with the gear when re-installing it, and must fit in order for the motor to sit down fully.
- reattach the plug-in wiring harness

[before you re-install the outside set screw, you can 'test' the new motor by hitting the switch and seeing if it is 'turning' the motor(you can also do this with the motor out of the wall while you hold it)]

the outside set screw simply provides for the motor not to 'rise up' and out of engagement with the column gear.

I know how to replace the motor but don't think it is a bad motor. After I override the slide controller, the slide goes in and out. If the motor was bad, it wouldn't work from the wall switch.

[nosticks]

Originally Posted by jtroop

I know how to replace the motor but don't think it is a bad motor. After I override the slide controller, the slide goes in and out. If the motor was bad, it wouldn't work from the wall switch.

Not so. It will work if it's bad. It worked for the override procedure or your slide would still be sitting there. Here's what happens. The override procedure simply puts 12v to the motors with no regard to synchronization. It does not care what the hall sensor is telling it in terms of it's position, neither does it care about exceeding the amperage which will normally shut down the motor.

I think you will find a broken wire (probably the hall sensor or hall sensor power wire), most likely at the motor connection or worse yet at the motor's internal circuit board. I would be extremely surprised if you do not find this the case.

[jtroop]

Originally Posted by nosticks

Not so. It will work if it's bad. It worked for the override procedure or your slide would still be sitting there. Here's what happens. The override procedure simply puts 12v to the motors with no regard to synchronization. It does not care what the hall sensor is telling it in terms of it's position, neither does it care about exceeding the amperage which will normally shut down the motor.

I think you will find a broken wire (probably the hall sensor or hall sensor power wire), most likely at the motor connection or worse yet at the motor's internal circuit board. I would be extremely surprised if you do not find this the case.

If I am understanding correctly, the motor still works, it is a wire issue. So, I will not need a new motor unless the internal circuit board is broke. I'm betting on a broken wire at the connection because looking at it today, it appears the cable came out of the white rubber strip and is being pinched. I'm not 100% on this though. I am reluctant to mess with it since it is under warranty.

Now here is the million $$ question sir: If I take my family on this trip to Ft Wilderness, in your opinion do you think the wall slide will continue to operate fine using the controller override procedure? The dealer said it simply can't get me in before we leave Monday. Thanks for your input. BTW, my father lives in Hiawassee!

[nosticks]

Yes. I got by doing the same for a few times. PIA, but you can do it. I would try to keep the slide in and out times to a minimum.

[newport61]

I have had the same problem override worked for 4-6 cycles then quit. The problem is most likely poor alignment of the slide mechanism. Mine went through 4 sets of motors and two wire harnesses. The problem was never resolved ended up trading the coach. I got a copy of the installation manual the tolerance is 3/8" on the distance between the tracks. I think this is not built-in to the msnufacturing techniques used by most coach builders.

[kfpd404]

I was having the same issue , It was alignment of the slide took several trips for them to solve it .

[jtroop]

Hmmm, a wiring issue or poor alignment. The slide worked fine for several camping outings, then started this issue. What could cause it to suddenly go out of alignment? Just trying to troubleshoot. Are there measurements I can take to see?