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Old 02-07-2015, 02:48 PM   #1
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Self-Contained "Speed Box" Receptacle

I have an adrift AC receptacle in the bedroom vanity. With this system the wires are covered when the receptacle is assembled, so it doesn't need a mounting box. The outlet has two fingers that, when tightened, pull against the mounting surface from the rear to secure the assembly. The front of mine has broken, and although the outlets work, the assembly won't stay in place.

I read on Amazon that these are used in trailers and RVs because of limited clearance behind the outlet. In my vanity there is plenty of clearance, and I was thinking of installing a residential-style box and outlet. This would be cheaper, might be easier to install, and might be a better outlet than the self-contained type.

Any opinions?
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Old 02-07-2015, 02:53 PM   #2
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Try an "old work" plastic box. You may be able to use the locking arms from it on your existing receptacle.
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Old 02-07-2015, 07:43 PM   #3
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Unless there is a fair amount of slack in the wires they will be to short to cut and strip for a regular outlet. You don't want to splice the wires where they are not in a box. You can use a new replacement like the original.
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:34 AM   #4
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Releasing Existing Wires

Is there a way to release the wires from the receptacle? i was planning to cut them and put on a short extension with wire nuts, but I'm not supposed to do that?
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:07 AM   #5
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Is there a way to release the wires from the receptacle? i was planning to cut them and put on a short extension with wire nuts, but I'm not supposed to do that?
You can just pull the wires out of the receptacle. They are insulation displacement connections.

Hubbel Wirecon Installation Guide

An old work box and new receptacle will work fine.
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:14 AM   #6
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You can just pull the wires out of the receptacle. They are insulation displacement connections.

Hubbel Wirecon Installation Guide

An old work box and new receptacle will work fine.
Page 18 on Johns link tells you exactly how to do it. Awesome job on finding this John.

Dan
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Old 02-08-2015, 11:48 AM   #7
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If there is room for a standard box and recptical Then do this.

Obtain standard "old work" box as described above

Remove the pice of junk the factory installed

UNPLUG

Open the box (A flat screwdriver and the latches are obvious) pull wires out and toss junk.

Install into new box, install box, install recptical and cover.

Plug back in.
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Old 02-19-2015, 07:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
If there is room for a standard box and recptical Then do this.

Obtain standard "old work" box as described above

Remove the pice of junk the factory installed

UNPLUG

Open the box (A flat screwdriver and the latches are obvious) pull wires out and toss junk.

Install into new box, install box, install recptical and cover.

Plug back in.
Other than the typo error which I make several times on all of my posts I agree with him on this. That is a piece of junk. system.
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Old 02-19-2015, 07:21 AM   #9
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I agree that you should never splice wires except in a box. However, There are going to be people that do it any way. If you feel you have to splice wires and there is not room for a connection box. Do not use wire nuts. Get split bolts and nuts. Put the wires in the split bolt and tighten the nut on them nice and tight. Tape up the connection very well. It is not a good practice but a lot safer than wire nuts. If you really really feel the urge to use wire nuts at least use electrical tape and tape around the nut and wire connection to help hold the wire nuts in place in relation to the wire. or better yet use a connection box
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Old 03-10-2015, 04:07 PM   #10
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It's Done!

Thanks to all who replied. I enlarged the hole to accommodate the plastic old work box, tripped the GFCI in the bathroom (which killed all the receptacles in the coach), took apart the speed box, easily removed the wires, shoved the wire into the old work box, installed the old work box, wired up the household receptacle, mounted the receptacle, and mounted the cover plate. Threw the speed box in the trash.

Works and looks great. Thanks for all the hand-holding.
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Old 03-10-2015, 07:35 PM   #11
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OH BOY do I have an opinion.

I think those "Speed Box" Receptacles should be made Illegal.

They are rated and breakerd at 15amps yet in my coach a 12 amp Space heater made one give off hot wire smell

In another Motorhome an "Upline" outlet the connections failed (These are often daisy chained so power to 3 or more outlets goes through the first one in a chain.

I heard of one Motor home fire which I will bet traces to one.

A proper outlet, in abox, with wire bent around a well tightened screw...NOW that...I trust.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:19 PM   #12
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Rated 15 amps but...

NEC indicates continious load should not exceed 80% so strike 1.

Installed wire may not be good quality #14...close to strike 2

Wires usually pushed into quick connects in the back where the connection area is the same as a knife cut strike 3...
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Old 03-10-2015, 10:10 PM   #13
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Thanks to all who replied. I enlarged the hole to accommodate the plastic old work box, tripped the GFCI in the bathroom (which killed all the receptacles in the coach), took apart the speed box, easily removed the wires, shoved the wire into the old work box, installed the old work box, wired up the household receptacle, mounted the receptacle, and mounted the cover plate. Threw the speed box in the trash.

Works and looks great. Thanks for all the hand-holding.
Although it worked, it is not a safe practice to rely on a tripped GFCI receptacle as a disconnect device. Alway turn the breaker off or if fused remove the fuse.
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Old 03-11-2015, 08:50 AM   #14
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What's the Risk?

John,

Can you explain the risk from activating the GFCI to de-energize the receptacle? I tested with a lamp to be sure it wasn't hot. Is it that the GFCI might only interrupt the neutral circuit, leaving me susceptible to shock through a ground?

I admit that I am a little too casual with 110. After working with high voltage equipment that really gets one's attention, I need to remember that 110 can, and on occasion does, kill.
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