Solar Charge Controller replacement

[Md11fpilot]

I have a Heliotrope RV-30DE controller which is no longer made. Mine isn't working as far as I can tell. The guy I bought the coach from said that just the digital display was inop because the pocket door hit it. Having now owned the coach for a few months, I doubt it is working at all. I was going to disconnect the wires from my batteries and put my multimeter to work but (luckily) before I did, I read in my owner's manual that the Panels need to be disconnected before the batteries. So, how do I verify if the system is working?

Assuming it is not working, do y'all have a recommendation for a replacement controller? I've looked at the Blue Sky 3000i and SC 30 which both flush mount where my old controller would come out. One issue I'm wrestling with is my RV-30 has two "out" terminals that can charge the HOUSE and CHASSIS batteries separately. I can find NO controller anywhere that mentions it can charge two separate battery banks! Do i just forget about charging CHASSIS batteries?

Having owned our coach for just 5 months (our first) I don't foresee doing much boondocking. If the coach hadn't come with the system, I wouldn't have considered putting one on. BUT, since I have these two big panels on my roof that I'm dragging around the country, I'd kind of like to see them work, ya know? Can anyone enlighten me?

Thanks.

[vsheetz]

Morningstar Duo.

https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/

[vsheetz]

You can check panel output with a multimeter. Volts and current. Isolate each panel at the combiner point.

[dverstra]

Originally Posted by Md11fpilot

I've looked at the Blue Sky 3000i and SC 30 which both flush mount where my old controller would come out. One issue I'm wrestling with is my RV-30 has two "out" terminals that can charge the HOUSE and CHASSIS batteries separately. I can find NO controller anywhere that mentions it can charge two separate battery banks! Do i just forget about charging CHASSIS batteries?

The Blue Sky 3000i has a Auxiliary connection that is designed to charge the Chassis Batteries. Download the Manual on their website and look at page 10.
http://www.blueskyenergyinc.com/uplo...SE_SB3000i.pdf

[vsheetz]

Originally Posted by dverstra

The Blue Sky 3000i has a Auxiliary connection that is designed to charge the Chassis Batteries. Download the Manual on their website and look at page 10.
http://www.blueskyenergyinc.com/uplo...SE_SB3000i.pdf

This is a good controller. Has the dual outputs. However its an MPPT controller whereas the OP's system is currently PWM controller and likely the two panels are 12v panels wired in parallel. To best take advantage of the MPPT technology higher voltage from the solar array is best. Rewiring the two panels in series would be one way to go with this controller.

[Md11fpilot]

Thanks for your time and knowledge in helping me out! This forum...and it's members are a GREAT resource!

[Md11fpilot]

I pulled my Helio panel out of the wall and disconnected the PV leads. Put my voltmeter on the PV leads and got a reading of 0.42 volts. Haven't climbed on the roof yet to check each panel individually. I'm wondering what kind of voltages I should be looking at - understanding I'm north of sun-soaked Seattle!! Today was full sun, no clouds but the sun elevation only gets to about 20 degrees above the horizon this time of year. I still feel like I should be getting more juice than less than half a volt! Any other thoughts out there? Thanks.

[twinboat]

Check every connection. Each panel should produce at least 14 volts. In most sun light conditions.

[vsheetz]

Agree. Voltage somewhere in the teens would be the expectation in full sun. Amps will be about 50% of rated for this time of year, your location, and laid flat.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Mark-

A couple ideas:

1) If you need a replacement PWM controller, the Bogart Engineering SC-2030 might work. You need to confirm- I have not installed solar on our coaches. It pairs with the Bogart Engineering TM-2030 battery monitor. A battery monitor is a very useful tool.

You can make a custom mounting plate to mount these devices in place of your current solar controller. I often use 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick black ABS for mounting items on my coach.

2) If you are concerned about cross-charging your chassis batteries, and feel limited to dual-output solar charge controllers, you first should find out if your coach has an existing, functioning house-to-chassis charge system. If it does, you should be golden- solar charge will charge both banks through that. If your coach has a house-to-chassis charging system and it's broken, you could fix it. If it has no such system, you can install an Amp-L-Start or Trik-L-Start. With one of those in place, or your coach's existing system working as designed, your coach's chassis batteries will get charge current from shore and generator power, in addition to solar.

[Md11fpilot]

Disconnected plugs from each PV panel yesterday on the roof and put my voltmeter to both. One panels is reading .40 volts and the other .30 volts. This on a cloudy day in Pacific NW. So I'm concluding that both of my solar panels are shot/bad/broke/nonfunctional/kaput! Yes?

Mark - don't know if my coach has a 'house to chassis battery charge system'. I've assumed that it does in that chassis battery is charged when I'm on shore power or generator (or so I think). Don't know how I would confirm that that is the case though. But curiously, whoever installed the solar system ran charge wires to house and chassis batteries independently. hmmm.

Now I'm real tempted to pull the solar panels off the roof - leave the brackets, I guess so I don't have holes to patch - cap the cables that are up there, remove the controller and cover hole with your 1/8" black ABS cover plate (thanks for that tip) and unhook the wires from my batteries and call it a loss and lesson learned.

Thanks!

[Md11fpilot]

Traced wires this evening from inverter/charger to house batteries. I see no wiring continuing on or connecting the charger to the CHASSIS batteries. So what I assumed was wrong. Also checked house and chassis battery voltages with the charger ON and OFF and it tells me chassis batteries don't get juice from the charger. I unhooked my battery wires from the Solar Controller, disconnected the wires at the Solar Controller and removed it from the coach.

Anyone guide me to a good source for solar panels?

[twinboat]

The inverter/charger will only go to the house batteries.

Your chassis charging should be handled by the same cables that your boost switch uses.

They are also the same cables that handle the house battery charging, from the chassis charging system, while running down the road.

You should have a solenoid and isolation manager control and you can check that its working. The isolation manager is a voltage sensing device that only connects the two battery banks when there is at least 13.2 volts being supplied by one of your charging sources.

[Md11fpilot]

Originally Posted by twinboat

The inverter/charger will only go to the house batteries.

Your chassis charging should be handled by the same cables that your boost switch uses.

They are also the same cables that handle the house battery charging, from the chassis charging system, while running down the road.

You should have a solenoid and isolation manager control and you can check that its working. The isolation manager is a voltage sensing device that only connects the two battery banks when there is at least 13.2 volts being supplied by one of your charging sources.

Thanks twinboat. The light is coming on for me. Sure wish some of this was in the Owner's Manual! Noted the solenoid on my coach. OM says it is used for "jumping" a low/dead chassis battery from the HOUSE...that switch is labeled "AUX START" on my coach. So it also "trickle charges" across there all the time regardless of switch position. Got it.