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Old 06-27-2016, 07:18 PM   #1
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Suburban iw60 tankless fail. Need help.

Just installed a new suburban iw60 in place of my Atwood 6 gallon. All connections made according to installation quidelines in manual. Here's what happens.

Hit power switch
Remote control panel lights up
I turn on hot water faucet
Fan icon is displayed along with an E7
Lockout led iluminates.
I shut off hot water faucet
Pause
Turn hot water faucet back on
Again fan icon and E7
Again lockout

Repeat repeat repeat

I did verify the Eco switch did not need reset.

Manual is troubleshooting clueless.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Bill
2007 Sightseer 35j
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:36 PM   #2
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Guessing you purged the gas line of air?

Hi,

Looks like a nice product.

Good water pressure?
Sure there is LPG on and you didn't forget that "other" cut-off valve, or selector?
Crack a fitting by unit and purge it manually?
Do you hear the electronic igniter attempt to light off on the first tries?
Tried a master reset disconnecting the full 12V ?


OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS WITH OPTIONAL
ON DEMAND CONTROL CENTER
1. STOP! Read the safety information provided.
2. Turn off all electric power to the appliance.
3. Turn “OFF” gas supply.
4. Wait five minutes for gas to clear the area. If you smell gas then STOP! Follow
instructions in item B of the SAFETY INFORMATION. If you do not smell
gas, go to next step.
5. Turn “ON” gas supply.
6. Turn on electrical power to the appliance.
7. PRESS THE “ON” button. The ON DEMAND CONTROL CENTER is
illustrated in Figure 13. Your ON DEMAND CONTROL CENTER is located
somewhere inside the RV. The water heater operates based off of "flow."
There must be a hot water faucet OPEN to a minimum of 0.5 GPM for the unit
to operate. If the burner does not light, the system will automatically attempt
two more tries for ignition before lock-out. When light remains illuminated, the
system is in lockout.
8. If lockout occurs, unit must be re-cycled by turning the faucet OFF and back
ON. The first start-up of the heater may require several ignition cycles before
all air is purged from the gas lines.


SEQUENCE OF OPERATION
The following Sequence of Operation will be the same when using either the
ON/OFF SWITCH or the optional ON DEMAND CONTROL CENTER.
1. Turning on a hot water faucet activates the DEMAND Water Heater.
2. The water heater senses the flow of water.
3. The water heater proves that the combustion air fan is working.
4. The combustion chamber is then purged of any remaining raw gas.
5. The burner will ignite and prove the flame.
a. The approximate time from turning on the faucet to ignition is 7 seconds.
After the initial lighting sequence and the water heater is maintaining
temperature, the ignition cycle is reduced to approximately 5 seconds.
b. Burners will stay ON until the water flow is shut off.
6. The flow of hot water at the SET point begins approximately 3 seconds after
ignition but will not reach the faucet until the hot water lines leading to the
faucet are cleared of any remaining water. This time is determined by the
length of the hot water line.
7. When the hot water faucet is turned OFF, the water heater shuts down and
will remain in a ready state until hot water is called for again.
NOTE: Blower motor will operate for approximately 20 seconds after the hot
water faucet is turned OFF.
8. If the ON/OFF SWITCH or ON DEMAND CONTROL CENTER are left in the
ON position, no further action is required by the user.
9. If the water heater fails to light for any reason, a second Trial For Ignition(TFI)
will automaticly begin. If the second Trial For Ignition(TFI) fails, the water
heater will automatically begin a third Trial For Ignition(TFI). If the third Trial
For Ignition(TFI) fails, the water heater will go into a lock out mode and will not
try to light the burner again. To reset:
a. Using ON/OFF SWITCH: Turn Switch OFF then back ON.
b. Using the ON DEMAND CONTROL CENTER: Turn faucet OFF, then back on.
NOTE: The IW60 DEMAND WATER HEATER has an energy mode circuit that
will shut down operation if operating continuously for three (3) hours. To reset,
follow the instruction in STEP 9 A or B above.
NOTE: Air in the gas line after changing propane tanks is the main reason for not
lighting the burner. A simple method to remove air from the gas line is to ignite a
burner on the installed cooking applince inside your RV


Can't find any fault codes either...

Good luck
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:38 AM   #3
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I called suburban.
1st they didn't want to give me any support. (They won't help RV owners )
2nd I finally convinced the lady that I only needed to know what the error code meant.

Here is what she said

"The E7 code is reporting a water problem"

Nothing further.

Removed the unit replumbed the water lines. Then hooked it up outside of the coach to a stick and brick faucet no line connected to iw60 "hot" outlet.

Powered up. Same error.

This thing is a poc.




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Old 06-28-2016, 05:12 PM   #4
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Sorry you're having issues.


The schematic for your Suburban appears to have a "flow switch" but unfortunately I've not had my hands on one of those yet to know the style or placement.
So you never even get to the clicking of the igniter or flame safe guard segments?
Not sure of your troubleshooting skills or comfort level?
I'd insure there was adequate water flow through the unit "OPEN to a minimum of 0.5 GPM for the unit to operate."
and jump the flow switch (fused jumper lead). Seems it should initiate the start segment.


We've got a Truma that has been totally trouble free (*wood knocking sound). We like it a lot more than we thought we would coming from a dual fuel tank type. Very forgiving. Even when we've exhausted the LPG, or I forget the water is turned off there is a red LED that resets quickly from switching the main power switch to off. Similar to the way our last Suburban tank model would have after an ignition fault.


Best wishes.
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Old 06-28-2016, 07:47 PM   #5
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Well I resolved the IW60 issue. It has been permanently removed from my coach.

Could not resolve the error E7 either in the coach or on a bench connected to stick and brick water supply. No help at all from Suburban. If you're not an authorized service center, thanks for buying our product but kiss off. ( in so many words )

Went and picked up an Atwood tankless and installed it in 45 minutes.

It worked FIRST TIME. The only thing different is the tankless. Water Lines, power feed, switch and gas line are the same.

I will NEVER recommend this tankless to anyone that maintains their own coach.





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Old 06-28-2016, 07:59 PM   #6
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Mtntrk,

Thanks for your suggestions. I spent a day and half on what should have been a 3 hour job.

I jumped the flow switch, the "Eco" switch. Tried a board reset. Was feeding gas from a standalone propane tank. 11 inches water column pressure. 40 psi water pressure from a well head. 1/2 in gas line 3/4 in water line. 6 ft of open hose on outlet ( provides a little back pressure )

I've been maintaining and rehabbing rv's for 15 years. Inside , outside and every system except I don't do diesels.

My main issue is with Airxcel not supporting the people that spend good money to buy their products.


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Old 06-29-2016, 12:41 AM   #7
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Ahh, glad to hear you found resolution what a shame. A real dud.


I hear you, best wishes, and stay cool.
Thanks for the update.
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Old 10-14-2023, 05:22 PM   #8
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I have a IW60 model installed and hasn’t worked properly yet…it ignites alright when you turn water on..(you hear it turn on) the water gets lukewarm for a few seconds then goes cold..turn water off it does same…never have had a study flow of warm or hot water. Any help would be appreciated greatly..thank you
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