Community Forums

s2per · 08-19-2018, 07:31 AM

I replaced the entire water heater in our Alpine 2 years ago. Direct fit, easy change and it worked well on gas or electric for the first year. Last year, it continued to work well on electric, but refused to stay lit when switched on. It will cycle several times with the solenoid opening, light the main burner and go out within a few seconds.
While it still works well on 110, it would be great to have gas operation too. Football season starting soon! Any recommendations?

wiredgeorge · 08-19-2018, 07:40 AM

The obvious answer would be to check propane but I am sure you already have done that... the burner has a little nozzle hole and you may want to ensure it isn't clogged and no insects have made a home behind the shroud that covers it.

s2per · 08-19-2018, 08:55 AM

Thanks George, the propane supply and nozzle are fine. No critters either. It clicks, the ignitor fires it up, and it goes right back out. 3 or 4 cycles and then the light inside the coach comes on (meaning it's not on).

RKins · 08-19-2018, 03:52 PM

Try lighting the stove - maybe all three burners to make sure you have good flow and leave it on while you try to light the water heater. If the stove lights and the W/H doesn't, you've localized the problem. From what I've read, there is a control board in them that senses the flame to make sure it is lit and the "spark generator" you hear stops.

Mnflyboy · 08-19-2018, 06:52 PM

Just went thru this with my Suburban WH. Mine was doing exactly what yours is doing. Mine would also keep "clicking" during the process...like it was still trying to light the flame even tho it was lit for a few seconds before shutting down. Three trys and it would lock out. First I replaced the ignitor/flame sensor....no change. Next was a new Dinosaur Board...that did the trick. So you can start cheap like me, but it sounds like your board is bad.

Jaye (Mn)

Old-Biscuit · 08-19-2018, 10:39 PM

Flame Proving FAILURE

DC is sent to gas solenoids for 6-8 seconds WHILE the high voltage transformer on circuit bd is energized sending 2000V to spark electrode which ignites the propane.

THEN flame MUST prove it lit for DC to remain on gas valve solenoids.
Flame creates a 'electrical current' that circuit bd uses to prove flame lit.
IF that millamp signal is not received then circuit bd drops DC to gas valve solenoids so raw fuel doesn't accumulate

SW6DE uses the electrode/high tension wire as return path.
ANY corrosion/dirty/loose connections will stop that milliamp signal

First place to start is with spark electrode assembly/wire connections
Could be circuit bd issue but then again just removing/reinstalling connections might work for free.

BirchyBoy · 08-19-2018, 11:04 PM

I think others have said this but it’s likely the DSI module. It’s a known problem part and isn’t covered in the 2 year warranty, only the first year. Mine went bad at day 380..... It’s about an $80 part and is easy to replace if you have access to it from inside your coach.

s2per · 09-04-2018, 07:41 PM

Thanks guys, I’m going to check it out this week. I spent the last couple days dealing with an overheating generator (now fixed!)

s2per · 09-05-2018, 07:42 PM

I cleaned all the connectors and the thermocouple was in the middle of the flame. After switching on inside, the main burner still comes on once for 3-5 seconds, while the igniter continues to spark. The burner then shuts off and the light inside the coach comes on. From what I’ve heard, this sounds like a circuit board problem. For the record, we still have 110v element action.

s2per · 09-10-2018, 06:47 PM

No surprise here. We ordered and installed a new board from Suburban (with a 2-year Amazon warranty) and the heater worked perfectly. Now on to the next repair.......
Thanks for the input guys!