Suburban water heat won't still lit

[LOSAP]

Suburban water heater lights burns nice blue flame and tries to relight and then cuts off

[tinstar 1114]

Check the flue and make sure a dirt dobber hasn't built a nest inside. I use a straightened coat hanger and work it from the bottom and then from the top. Then use compressed air to clean it out if I find something.

[LOSAP]

I took the flue and gas valve out cleaned them both ....I get a nice blue flame then after a min or so it try's to relight with the flame still going and then cuts out

[MSHappyCampers]

Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

[RKins]

I've attached a generic troubleshooting guide.


Here is a link to a service manual for the water heater - hope it helps you. If you already have one, disregard.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Subu...ice_Manual.pdf

[LOSAP]

Originally Posted by RKins

I've attached a generic troubleshooting guide.


Here is a link to a service manual for the water heater - hope it helps you. If you already have one, disregard.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Subu...ice_Manual.pdf

Thanks I will try it

[aether_one]

Your controller is not seeing the flame. Older systems used a bulb type sensor, your oven's pilot light probably has one above it. I'm not sure how the newer DSI systems sense that the flame is on.

[Old-Biscuit]

RV water heaters with DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) use the spark electrode for /flame proving'
When main flame lights off a miliamp signal is generated (Flame rectification)
This signal goes back to circuit board to prove main flame lit and is staying lit
Being a miliamp signal it doesn't take much to disrupt/inhibit signal from returning

Soot/carbon on electrode
Electrode not 'engulfed' in flame
Cracked ceramic insulator on electrode
Bad ground ---mounting screw provides grounding for assembly
Loose/dirty/corroded High tension wire connections
Too small/too large of spark gap...can damage circuit board (S/B 1/8" --- 3/16")

And even a bad circuit board

[Mr_D]

from WA State!

Yep, sounds like the sensor isn't working when it lights. Could be the sensor or control board.

[LOSAP]

How would I check without changing parts? And thanks guys

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by LOSAP

How would I check without changing parts? And thanks guys

Pg. 11 in the manual in link provide shows what/how to measure miliamp signal

Circuit Board tester can be hooked up to tests the cirucit paths on board


BUT...those are expensive to purchase

So best thing an RV owner can do is 'clean, properly gap, properly position, clean/tighten wiring connections' on the spark electrode.
(In other words..address the conditions I pointed out)

If still not functioning correctly.....replace spark electrode ($20)

Then if that is not it.....remove circuit board have have tested at RV Shop
Bad board.....replace with a Dinosaur Electronics vs OEM (higher quality board....less cost)

[LOSAP]

Originally Posted by tfryman

Your controller is not seeing the flame. Older systems used a bulb type sensor, your oven's pilot light probably has one above it. I'm not sure how the newer DSI systems sense that the flame is on.

Thanks will do

[LOSAP]

Thanks guys it was the board [emoji106]