Community Forums

Geotrakrtat · 10-23-2018, 05:07 PM

I've got a 2015 keystone outback with a suburban water heater model SW6DEL. We're fairly new to the camper living and I'm still learning the ins and outs. When we got the camper parked, the hot water seemed to be working, we were able to take hot showers off the electric and the gas settings. Now all of the sudden the water does not want to get hot. Just Luke warm. I've looked all over the Internet and the owners manual (not much help) to find the problem. Along the way I've learned a lot of how these things operate, so I can't figure out why it's not working.
I've drained the tank, refilled it, the anode rod still has a while before it needs replaced, the thermostat/reset buttons are fine and have power running (no broken or burnt connections), the electric element has power running to it, all the connections have power and check out. And I know I've got the bypass valve in the correct position, and the rocker switch outside is on too. No fuses are blown and the breaker doesn't trip either. It has no problem igniting on the gas setting and in theory it should still make the water hot. But it's still just Luke warm.
Now my first thought is to replace the electric element. But I need to buy to the tool to remove and install it first. But even if that is going bad, the water should still get hot on the gas setting.
Any suggestions?

shiggs68 · 10-23-2018, 05:18 PM

Being careful , release a little water from the temperature/pressure valve to see if the water in the tank is hot. If so, then you don’t have the bypass set correctly or you have a bad valve.

The other possibility is your outside shower has both hot and cold on but the shower head is off allowing cold to mix with the hot.

If the tank is not hot, then you have an actual heating problem.

Old-Biscuit · 10-23-2018, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiggs68

Being careful , release a little water from the temperature/pressure valve to see if the water in the tank is hot. If so, then you don’t have the bypass set correctly or you have a bad valve.

The other possibility is your outside shower has both hot and cold on but the shower head is off allowing cold to mix with the hot.

If the tank is not hot, then you have an actual heating problem.

THIS^^^^^^^^^^

Electric elements work or don't ...no maybe

Electric and propane functioning means all controls are working....t-stats, circuit board, DC Voltage etc
'DEL' uses DC for electric and propane controls...(similar to Atwood Models....DC Relay triggers the 120V AC to element)

Electric & propane use separate sets of T-stats so if it was a t-stat problem it would affect only one heat source.

Bypass open/leaking thru allowing cold water to mix with hot...luke warm

Showers not turned off via hot/cold knobs just with button/lever on shower head handle allows shower faucet to be a mixing chamber...hot/cold mixing---luke warm water

Geotrakrtat · 10-23-2018, 06:00 PM

I don't have an outdoor shower, there is an outdoor kitchen, and I made sure the faucet was turned off.
I just tried electric and gas setting again. Both times the water coming out of the valve was NOT hot, just Luke warm.
And again I checked the bypass valve (only one on mine) and I tried both ways and I could tell when it was passing through the heater (Luke warm water) and when I turned it the other way I could tell it wasn't (cold water) so I'm sure I've got it turned correctly
What is it that would not allow it to heat even off both settings? Even though nothing trips, the resets don't pop out, the connections are fine and gas runs perfectly, all switches to on positions, and bypass turned correctly.

Geotrakrtat · 10-23-2018, 06:15 PM

It does seem as if cold and hot water are mixing somewhere. Otherwise it would be getting hot off the gas side at least. I know for sure everything on the gas side is working properly. The only thing on the electric side I'm not sure of is the element (I need to buy the tool to fit it) so is there another valve hidden somewhere I'm not able to find?

Old-Biscuit · 10-23-2018, 11:51 PM

Have you Popped open the T&P Relief Valve to check water temp inside the WH tank?
CAUTION: Water should be 130*F and under pressure

Water luke warm whether you heat using electric or propane then the other possibility is the cold water diffuser tube has fallen off the cold inlet pipe.
Diffuser directs incoming water down towards bottom of tank...incoming cold water then forces HOT water out top
W/O diffuser in place the cold water flows in directly mixing with the hot water cooling it down

Suburban Water Heater SW-Series Inner Tank Cold Water Diffuser Tube - Parts & Accessories - RV Water Heaters - RV Appliances

Both electric and propane set of t-stats are located under cover above gas valve.
Left side 120V AC for electric (black wires)
Right side 12V DC for propane (red wires)

Bottom t-stat.....normal temp t-stat---OPENS at 130*F/Closes at 100*F
Top t-stat......High Temp t-stat---Opens at 170*F/Closes at 140*F...manula reset if it trips

shiggs68 · 10-24-2018, 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

THIS^^^^^^^^^^

Electric elements work or don't ...no maybe

Electric and propane functioning means all controls are working....t-stats, circuit board, DC Voltage etc
'DEL' uses DC for electric and propane controls...(similar to Atwood Models....DC Relay triggers the 120V AC to element)

Not sure what you are referring to, i intentional keep it simple and didn’t go into any operational detail.

In the future, I’ll just leave to you as you seem to imply you know it all. Have a good day.

MSHappyCampers · 10-24-2018, 09:18 AM

Hi !

Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

I can't add to what others have suggested but noticed that you are kinda new on IRV2 and wanted to say hello! Have fun and keep her between the ditches!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

Old-Biscuit · 10-24-2018, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shiggs68

Not sure what you are referring to, i intentional keep it simple and didn’t go into any operational detail.

In the future, I’ll just leave to you as you seem to imply you know it all. Have a good day.

I WAS agreeing with your post

BUT

Thanks.......
I appreciate you stepping aside.

Geotrakrtat · 10-25-2018, 03:49 PM

The water coming from the pressure release is NOT hot. I have taken the whole thing apart after draining it. Including trying to omit the bypass setup and going straight to the hot and cold inlets. The fuses are still in check and everything reads good on the ohm meter.
But still no hot water.
On a side note how do I post pictures in my reply?
Id like to show what I’m looking at exactly on the back of my water heater inside the unit

Old-Biscuit · 10-25-2018, 07:57 PM

Water is not HOT from T&P Relief Valve AFTER a heating cycle
AND no hot water used (no cold coming in) ?????????

How long is the heating cycle.......propane flame ON/Electric element ON...before shutting down?

If water is cold coming in....heating cycles should be 20-30 minutes before t-stat opens and stops heating cycle (even longer if water is very cold)
Suburban rates the electric element at 6.2 gal/hr recovery time and propane at 10 gal/hr recovery time

So how long does it heat for?

Also it is rare but the cold inlet diffuser may have broken so cold is mixing with hot...luke warm BUT that would NOT explain no HOT from T&P