Suburban Water Heater Anode Rod

[kartvines]

I finally was able to get the Water Heater Anode Rod broken free and removed but only the rod came out leaving the magnesium core inside, and now I don't have enough room to install the new one, I am sure this is not that uncommon so I would welcome what the next step is to correct the problem so the new rod can be installed.

[Half Dimes]

I just replaced my anode a couple of weeks ago. Fortunately, mine came out in one piece. I understand what you're dealing with. Perhaps a pair of long nose bent pliers like this might do the trick though being able to open the pliers may be a problem depending on the pivot point.

If you don't already have it, buy the flush kit for about $10 to clean out all the rubbish after you get the rod out. I tried flushing with a garden hose and nozzle. When that didn't go well, my RV supplier sold me the kit and it really cleans out the tank.

[Gary - K7GLD]

I doubt there are any dangers to leaving the remains inside, and I'd think you could either use some looooong forceps to fish it out, or else simply use a stick or rod to move it out of the way and leave it inside.

On the other hand, I've never worked on one myself - and perhaps there's something about their location amd placement I'm not aware of...

[kartvines]

I took a screw driver and broke it free then took a jet hose nozzle and shoved it all the way in the hole and turn the water on, pulled the nozzle and the dirty water etc came flooding out, I did it about 5 times and it loose as it it came out clear, I felt at the lip just below the hole and was not able to feel any debris so I hope that did the job, if not came next year I will be ready to do it again with the little nozzle they sell to clean out the area just under the hole. I was really surprised how the old anode looked when it came out and the new one which looked like solid metal, this is the first time I have ever seen one, so it was again a surprise.

[Gary - K7GLD]

I've never checked the ones in our 5er or MH - might be about time...

[Its Paid For]

While you are at it you might want to replace your pressure release valve if it is old as they build up deposites and eventually fail when you least expect it. Once they fail, very hot water may drip out or gush out, all depends.

Part costs about $5-$10 easy to take off and install. Might be surprised at how that looks inside as well if old. If not too many years old, lift the release pin and see if it re-seats easily or if it fails to seat, or even open for that matter.

Make sure you replace with exact valve and read info on the attached red tag, as although you may find exact dimensions, all water heaters are different. When I replaced mine, the service tech at Camper World said he had never seen one rated to handle water so hot. I told him I know why, if you do not use cold water mix it will literally burn you. I'm used to it, makes 6 gallons last pretty long time and reheats quickly.

When mine failed, the drain plug also failed at the same time. No idea why or how they have anything to do with each other, other than I suspect when the pressure relief valve failed it made the water heater run continous that day and perhaps super heated until the drain plug somewhat got soft and had a steady drip.

Food for thought.

[kartvines]

That is a good Idea, so I guess I have to find the book find where it is located and test it, you said it must be replaced by the exact model can that be determined before removal, otherwise that could create a problem not having it on hand at the time of replacement.

[Its Paid For]

It is easily visible from the access door to the water heater. It looks like a brass faucet head that is screwed into the water tank. It has a built in anode on the inside that is designed to open the valve and release water pressure should it overheat for some reason, thus potentially becoming a bomb if pressure is not released.

Last year mine released VERY hot water, but would not close again. Upon removal it had calcium deposits so bad preventing closure.

There will be a red metal tag on it that has all of the specs, such as at what temp it will release pressure at. They vary from somewhat hot to VERY hot, mine was very hot, cant recall exact temp atm.

You just unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. On the exterior mine was still shiney and new looking, when removed the interior was yuck.

Good time to flush whole tank as well. Mine was clean.

I was told they almost always fail in cold weather as that is when water heater is working hotter. Mine failed on the coldest night all winter. It worked and did its job, but would not close again, thus a small trickle of water began forming an ice bed as it eventually froze. Replaced next morning.

[DickNiehues]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Its Paid For It is easily visible from the access door to the water heater. It looks like a brass faucet head that is screwed into the water tank. It has a built in anode on the inside that is designed to open the valve and release water pressure should it overheat for some reason, thus potentially becoming a bomb if pressure is not released. Last year mine released VERY hot water, but would not close again. Upon removal it had calcium deposits so bad preventing closure. There will be a red metal tag on it that has all of the specs, such as at what temp it will release pressure at. They vary from somewhat hot to VERY hot, mine was very hot, cant recall exact temp atm. You just unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. On the exterior mine was still shiney and new looking, when removed the interior was yuck. Good time to flush whole tank as well. Mine was clean. I was told they almost always fail in cold weather as that is when water heater is working hotter. Mine failed on the coldest night all winter. It worked and did its job, but would not close again, thus a small trickle of water began forming an ice bed as it eventually froze. Replaced next morning.

I was looking for the anode on my suburban water heater and didn't find it.
Then I read your post about it being attached to the relief valve.
Thanks, my chore for this weekend.