Community Forums

petrel · 07-28-2018, 11:54 AM

I'm attempting to replace the electric element in my Suburban SW10DE. My research indicates two different heating elements for the unit. 520900 and 520789. I purchased the 900, but it is considerably longer than the generic 789 that I just removed.

The 900 seems to fit without hitting anything and the description says it is for 6, 10, & 12 gallon water heaters, but I am concerned over the discrepancy in size and some site's recommendations.

Anyone have any insights on this?

nothermark · 07-28-2018, 12:03 PM

If it fits it should work. The question is whether or not it fits...

petrel · 07-28-2018, 01:12 PM

it seems to fit.

I just got back from camping world and they do not stock the 789 model because they say the 900 is a suitable replacement!

petrel · 07-28-2018, 01:45 PM

it is in. I've fired it up and I'm watching it from across the yard. Its got an hour to either make hot water or give some sign of malfunction!

nothermark · 07-28-2018, 01:52 PM

As long as it fits with a bit of end clearance I don't see where it would matter. Might even work better as the heat source is more spread out so less of a hot spot around the tube.

petrel · 07-28-2018, 02:35 PM

Ok, new 130 degree thermostat, new anode, new element, new power switch, full power in coach, 50 minutes later water is only 103 degrees on electric, up from 86! What else is in this system to replace?

RKins · 07-28-2018, 07:50 PM

I have the same model - here is an Amazon part #
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAYRNM...532828770&sr=1

I bought 2, replaced one and carry one new one with me. Figure once a year for replacement and rinsing out the tank.

petrel · 07-28-2018, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RKins

I have the same model - here is an Amazon part #
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAYRNM...532828770&sr=1

I bought 2, replaced one and carry one new one with me. Figure once a year for replacement and rinsing out the tank.

Thanks, but that is the sacrificial anode not the heating element.

Well, It looks like I have the thing going now. I am embarrassed to admit that the cross connect between hot and cold was still open. Once I closed that, I started getting fully hot water at the tap. Both the propane and electric heating got to 130, but I am not certain that they are cycling properly.

The propane heating thermostat does not kick back on until the water temp drops to about 110 degrees. I am going to test the electric heating thermostat tomorrow. I don't know if that is their normal tolerance to keep them from cycling unnecessarily, or if there may be another issue.

Old-Biscuit · 07-28-2018, 08:46 PM

Both elements are 1440W and the '900' is now used in all heaters 6 thru 16 gal

What is the measured voltage AT the element when ON??

Those elements are rated at 6 gal/hr recovery from initial fill (roughly 70*F heated to 130*F)

The 120V AC set of t-stats (left side--black wires) and the 12V DC set of t-stat (right side--red wires) have same temp settings
Normal t-stat---OPENS/130* ---CLOSES/110*F
High Temp T-stat----TRIPS/170*F.....manual reset when temp drops below 150*F

MtnTrek · 07-28-2018, 08:54 PM

That's normal. It allows you to use both energy sources ON, for more rapid recovery for say showers. But for just moderate use, short hand wash, it will cycle primarily on electric, saving LPG.

petrel · 07-29-2018, 09:47 AM

Thanks for the help. Looks like everything is working now. Gonna run it in the backyard all day today to be sure its all good.

I never measured the voltage, just the temperature. Thanks for the temp ranges. That explains the things behavior.