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Old 06-10-2011, 11:22 PM   #1
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Switching Dometic RM-2652 to Electric

I'm trying to switch my dometic rm-2652 to 120v AC but I don't see any controls for it besides on/off gas/auto and climate control. When I plug the fridge in in the back there is no noise at all, the gas works fine but I need to be able to use power. Could it be that the fridge is really quiet or is there something I'm missing? power to the outlet is good and I don't see any blown fuses. I just found out the fridge has been recalled for a gas problem also so I'm trying to figure out a few things. Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:40 AM   #2
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The "Auto" position will default to electric mode operation when the refrigerator control board see 120 vac and the unit will operate on electric (Silently I might add). To verify that the heating element is working, a clamp on amp meter will be needed around one of the heating element conductors. You can look for voltage on the lines telling you that the control board is operating on electric but does not guarantee that the element itself is good.
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Old 06-11-2011, 06:20 AM   #3
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As RV Wizard says, the fridge will automatically run on 120V if it is available. If you have the refrigerator on AUTO and it is not seeing 120V, the LP light will be lit.

If the LP light is out, then the refrigerator is trying to run on 120V. If you don't have a clamp-on ammeter, another way to tell if the fridge is working on electric without waiting a long time to see if it gets cold it to open the outside access door and feel the coils. Within a short time of starting up the fridge, the coils should feel warm. Be careful when you stick your hand in there - if the refrigerator has been running for any length of time, the coils can get pretty hot.

If the coils don't feel warm, wait a little longer and try again. If they never get warm, then it's possible the heating element or the circuit board is bad.

Good luck. Let us know what you find out.
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:06 AM   #4
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The units have no moving parts therefore yo will fear nothing. Some have a small 12 volt fan in the outer compartment.

You can learn more about the operation on gas/electric from the refrigerators owners manual.

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Old 06-11-2011, 08:02 AM   #5
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To switch from Gas to electric.. With electric present (If not sure go out and check to be sure it's plugged in and the outlet has power) switch to AUTO. May take as much as 5-15 seconds in my expierence.

To lock on Electric: Touch the AUTO button once electric has been selected.

To switch back to GAS when you unplug.. Touch AUTO, again the wait

To LOCK on Gas... Again touch the AUTO.

At least that is how I do it every time I move.
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Old 06-12-2011, 01:52 AM   #6
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I don't think it is seeing 120v, i do not have an ammeter to check but the fridge and freezer stay the same temperature after a half an hour or so. I checked the 12v and 120v power going to the circuit board and they are both good
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:40 AM   #7
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There are fuses inside the control box but I do not think there is one for 120volt (I think they are all 12 v) But that's w/o checking.. Hold on. Thought I had the servicemanual.pdf on board but I don't.

That manual is a very good place to start if you are having tribbles.

YOu may have a bad heater element.
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:18 PM   #8
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Your heating electric element will have a 5 amp fuse on the control board if thats good than you may have a defective element.
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Old 06-13-2011, 06:52 PM   #9
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I left the fridge plugged in for four or five hours and it does seem to be working, should it take this long for it to get cool? I haven't had any experience with these fridges before, but after doing some testing it appears all of the electrical points are working. Also does anyone have any tips on when to run gas and when to run electric? as far as driving and being parked. Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:35 AM   #10
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Just leave the controls in the Auto mode, have the LP gas valve turned on, have the LP gas lines purged by starting the stove top and either have the coach moving or parked on a level plane for the refrigerator to work properly. When you run the generator or are plugged into shore power the refrigerator will operate in the electric mode and when you are off incoming power it will switch and operate in the LP gas mode.
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Old 06-21-2011, 02:15 PM   #11
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Thanks RV Wizard! That makes sense to me, now all I have to do is get the repair kit that was recalled by dometic, anyone have any idea what that includes? it doesn't say much on the site about what they are actually fixing
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Old 06-22-2011, 03:23 AM   #12
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They are not fixing any operative problem but adding a measure of safety in the event of a fire from the cooling unit.
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:10 PM   #13
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95% of my customers left their refrigerators on auto. If you do this, It will go to gas when you unplug and go to electric when you plug in. You will hear from the 5% who think gas is dangerous underway. You will have to make up your own mind.
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