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Old 04-01-2013, 11:40 AM   #15
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:36 AM   #16
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This thread was started in July 2007, then was slowly updated until May, 2008. Then it died until 2012. It came alive again in February 2013, and here we are.

Reminds me of another website where I have been active since 1999. Ford-Diesel.com became TheDieselStop.com. Some of the threads going back 10 or more years are still useful and available with a search. Some of the old codgers that were active when the website first converted from a bulletin board to the WWW in 1999 are still there. Like Ray,In and RV Wizzard are still here.
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texastigger View Post
I bought a 1999 25' 5th wheel and am working on finding the right truck to pull it to Alaska.
Hi, Peggy, and

I own a 2000 Keystone Sprinter 25' 5th wheel with one slide and GVWR of 7,900 pounds. I bought it new in the spring of 2001. I've drug that 5er all over the USA, about 10 years and 100,000 miles on the 5er before I parked it for Darling Daughter to live in.

I towed it with a '99.5 F-250 diesel with GVWR of 8,800 pounds, slightly hot-rodded with a mild towing tune, intake and exhaust mods. Plenty of power to climb even the really long and steep grades crossing the Rockies on I-90 or I-70. But I was overloaded over the GVWR of the F-250. I really needed a tow vehicle with at least 9,900 or 10,000 pounds GVWR to not be overloaded when on the road. 2005 and later F-250 diesels have 10,000 pounds GVWR, so they can probably tow that 25' 5er without being overloaded. So in your case, if you buy an older tow vehicle, be sure your tow vehicle has GVWR of at least 9,900 pounds if you want to tow that 5er without being overloaded. And no, you cannot tow that 5er with a half-ton pickup without being overloaded.

RV trailers come with minimum tires. I blew out two tires on the first long trip when the trailer was new. So I replaced the stock ST205/75R15C tires on 5.5" rims with ST225/R15D tires and new 6" wide rims to match the tire requirements. No trailer tire problems after that.

I also broke a leaf spring on that first trip. Keystone then replaced the springs with heavier-duty springs, and no more problems there either.
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:46 PM   #18
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RV Salvage and RV Surplus Dealers in the US and Canada.

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Old 02-28-2015, 10:44 PM   #19
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Thread added by powerboatr, TRANSFER SWITCH BURN-UP, something to check out for your maintenance list for spring tune up.
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Old 08-13-2015, 03:56 PM   #20
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This is cool thanks
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Old 07-22-2016, 04:19 PM   #21
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Thank you so much for all of these links!! I'm sure many of them will be quite helpful as my kids & I try to get this motorhome up to par.

Thanks again!
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:54 PM   #22
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Many new link's have been added if you have not checked this thread in a while.
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Old 01-26-2019, 02:26 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "007" View Post
Many new link's have been added if you have not checked this thread in a while.
Unsure if I missed it, as I've been looking for information regarding our Atwood levelling system, and haven't come across it yet! Those that purchased 'Preowned coaches' are now dealing with issues on the Atwood Jacks/levelers, where apparently Atwood was bought out by Dometic, and then Dometic sold off the leveller system to Lippert, who doesn't have an actual original controller for the Atwood system, but did build one that works 'manually' by what I can tell.

I'm currently having an issue where my air bags aren't deflating, and my Atwood controller/keypad won't even turn on! So, where to start? Heck, I don't even know where the controller is on my rig, nor am I a technical electrician knowing all the in's and out's of such products!
If anyone has any advice/suggestions, please feel free, as I'm sure I'm not the only one with problems with their Atwood levelling system!
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:25 AM   #24
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This is great.... Thank you so much.... Love this site!!!!
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Old 04-17-2019, 01:06 AM   #25
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Resurrecting Your Vintage Brakes & Other Relevant Info

Can we make this a stickie? How would we make stickies for our new Revcon forum, i.e., this is what you should do when you create your acct, so signatures are complete, locations, etc.?

Here's my 2¢, based on bringing 6 vintage cars & RVs back from the semi-dead.

Resurrecting a vehicle in storage for 10+ years. This deals primarily with brake issues.

Step on the brake pedal a couple of times to check the pressure. If the brake pedal is too soft, this indicates lack of pressure, which can be caused by a faulty master or wheel cylinder or other leakage.
Check the brake fluid level. If there's no evidence of leaks in the reservoir, wheel cylinders, or lines, chances are you've got contaminated fluid.
Inspect the brake lines for signs of leaks, rust, or corrosion.

After eliminating master cylinder & wheel cylinders as faulty and ensuring all the metal lines are intact & not rusted, you can concentrate on the other hardware & fluid. If the vehicle was exposed to road salt, you should probably plan on replacing the metal brake lines. The rubber brake lines have a life of 6-8 years. Replacement can be relatively inexpensive if you live in a metro area. You will need a flare nut wrench set (<$20) & some PB Blaster and maybe a pair of ViseGrip locking pliers to remove the brake hoses & lines. Take lots of pictures so you have before & after results & in case you forget what went where/how.

If you are planning on doing your own repairs, you should be aware of safety issues. Use the proper lifting jack & always support with a proper capacity jack stand before you get under the vehicle.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic! Your brake fluid has been absorbing water every day since it was put in the vehicle originally. All the rubber has been deteriorating internally since it was installed. SO:
1. Flush the brake system until you have clean fluid exiting the bleeders.
2. Remove all the rubber brake hose & get someone like Royal Brass & Hose or Pirtek to duplicate what you have. I've used stainless braided hose.
3. Check all the metal brake lines & replace any that are questionable, you will want to use a cupro-nickel line which won't rust like steel
4. Remove the brake cylinders & either replace or rebuild based on what you find and your ability & level of expertise.
5. Rebuild or replace the calipers.
6. Once everything is new/refurbished/rebuilt buy some Castrol Dot 4 Brake Fluid (formerly Castrol LMA) which you should plan on replacing by flushing every 2 years.

Remove all the engine hoses & belts & replace them.

This website will be your friend: https://www.restore-an-old-car.com/o...lectrical.html

Plan on replacing your rubber fuel lines. Dependent upon the fuel that was in the tank you may not need to have it cleaned. E10 absorbs water & rots older rubber fuel lines and can create rust in your tank. You probably will need to drop the tank & inspect. If it has an intank fuel pump replace the filter & dependent upon your budget, replace the pump as well.

In 2007, I drained a RR tank that had 25 yr old gas(it looked & smelled right-I think it was a high-test fuel from the early 80s) which I dumped into my late model Lincoln with no issues. E10 will be a different story, it's just nasty stuff.

I use ethanol free fuel in anything built before 1995.
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:16 PM   #26
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I am very new and not very computer literate, can some one direct me to trouble shooting electric windshield blinds on a 2006 Newmar Kountry Star
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