Community Forums

FatChance · 12-10-2017, 12:32 PM

Our 2004 Newmar Mountain Aire has a Thetford Aria Deluxe II toilet. It has been trouble free. DW says it is time to change the old seat, but to do that I have to remove the toilet to gain enough space to access the back of the toilet. Since I am doing this, what parts should I also replace at the same time? Just seals? Water valve? The whole mechanism?

I know some of you have had trouble with this toilet, but it has worked well for us and DW likes it.

windsorbill · 12-13-2017, 08:37 PM

If you're going to pull the toilet to replace the seat, you should replace the toilet/floor seal. It's a sponge rubber that seals toilet to floor. sorry, I don't have a part number for that alone, but where ever you are getting the toilet seat from should be able to direct you.

If your bowl is not holding any water, you can order # 19627 for the new seal.

DSL417 · 12-13-2017, 09:39 PM

My guess is the toughest thing will be getting the floor bolts back in...haven't gotten mine back in yet.

First A D II lasted 18 months. Hope the second lasts as long as you, as it sucks driving a half a million dollar outhouse (with an open hole) till you get it fixed!

FatChance · 12-14-2017, 07:57 AM

A new floor seal came in the spare parts box when we bought the coach, so I am set with that. The bowl still holds water just fine but I think I will replace the seal as long as the toilet is removed.

What is the difficulty in replacing the mounting bolts? What failed on your first Thetford?

kgchampagne · 12-14-2017, 08:15 AM

I gave up the Aria II fight, I replaced the whole thing. But if you want to make sure you have projects for later, I get it. Floor seal for sure, about $7. The entire valve system about $150, maybe. While you have it out pay very close attention to the orientation of the floor flange, in fact I would take a picture, so you know how much work it will be when you do replace it. You are hoping for a 3 o'clock-9 o'clock orientation, not the 1 o'clock 7 that I had (referring to the slots for the hold down bolts). Additionally, make certain on the reinstall that you route the control wires away from the knurled manual flush knob as it will interfere with the operation..trust me, I know.

L.R.S. · 12-26-2017, 09:20 PM

I recently rebuilt my Aria II. Pretty simple, parts ordered from Amazon.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/toil...ii-362273.html

FatChance · 12-27-2017, 11:37 AM

Thanks for that link. It is a great help!

I think I will go ahead and order that valve mechanism and a flange seal in preparation for needing to do this job. It continues to work fine but with the issues with these I have read about in the forums, I assume it will just be a matter of time before it will need attention.

trux · 12-27-2017, 01:07 PM

After you change the flange and seal, you'll want to go and buy a tube of Dow 111 lube paste to apply on your toilet seal from time to time. You'll notice a difference right away, the trap mechanism will be quieter and smoother and the seal will last a very long time. It is expensive stuff but well worth the money. Just be sure to wear disposable nitrile gloves when you apply it. Don't need much, 3/4 inch bead on finger tip and spread on contact surface. To keep trap open and no water running into basin, press both buttons twice together. Don't run the exhaust fan as this will draw air into coach from the tank. Not pleasant. Good luck.

FatChance · 12-28-2017, 02:40 PM

Thanks! I will order some Dow 111. The previous owner used something like coconut oil and the toilet is still working great, but I will try the 111 lube.