Community Forums

aether_one · 03-22-2018, 12:50 PM

So was your residential refrigerator an add-on? Most RVs with a residential refrigerator from the factory already have an inverter installed.

OldToolmaker · 03-22-2018, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scorpion65

My fridge only pulls 4 amps which is about 480 watts. I am thinking about . . .

In really round numbers, 4 amp draw at 120 V is 40 AMP draw at 12 volts.

cgreer00 · 03-22-2018, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tfryman

So was your residential refrigerator an add-on? Most RVs with a residential refrigerator from the factory already have an inverter installed.

Yes it was an add-on. The previous owners re-did the kitchen and modernized it, in the process adding a huge residential fridge. It is a nice luxury when we are all traveling because my kids eat a lot of food, but keeping it all cold poses the problem.

Triangle Drifter · 03-22-2018, 05:44 PM

Rather than get into a whole lot of complex wiring to feed this circuit but not that one, I simply fed the 120AC breaker panel. At 2000W the inverter could power everything except the air. In reality trying to do it would kill the battery bank in no time at all.

This is why, before we even set up for dry camping, AC circuit breakers feeding the water heater, room heaters, microwave, & since we still have a RV fridge the fridge AC breaker as well are turned off. This leaves nothing but all of the outlets live & no chance of killing the battery bank in only a couple of hours.

cgreer00 · 03-23-2018, 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triangle Drifter

Rather than get into a whole lot of complex wiring to feed this circuit but not that one, I simply fed the 120AC breaker panel. At 2000W the inverter could power everything except the air. In reality trying to do it would kill the battery bank in no time at all.

This is why, before we even set up for dry camping, AC circuit breakers feeding the water heater, room heaters, microwave, & since we still have a RV fridge the fridge AC breaker as well are turned off. This leaves nothing but all of the outlets live & no chance of killing the battery bank in only a couple of hours.

Yes! This is what I want to do. We know not to turn on the high amperage stuff when not using the generator/shore power. I don't want to have to worry about new breaker boxes and things like that.

So is it possible to purchase a 2000 watt inverter and simply take out the current converter box (installed in the bay right next to the batteries) and replace it with the inverter? Is that all that is needed?

Triangle Drifter · 03-23-2018, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgreer00

Yes! This is what I want to do. We know not to turn on the high amperage stuff when not using the generator/shore power. I don't want to have to worry about new breaker boxes and things like that.

So is it possible to purchase a 2000 watt inverter and simply take out the current converter box (installed in the bay right next to the batteries) and replace it with the inverter? Is that all that is needed?

No, not quite that simple. Your converter is most likely a converter/CHARGER. To do a straight swap you will need an inverter/CHARGER. It is possible to have an inverter & stand alone multi stage, multi battery bank even, charger. Had my boat set up this way.

twinboat · 03-23-2018, 07:39 AM

You can add a inverter only, connect it to the batteries, plug the shore cord into it, and just switch off the water heater, converter, AC unit and microwave breakers.

Let the original converter do the charging when on shore or generator power.

MisterT · 03-23-2018, 02:38 PM

why not try this 'portable' power inverter(I found on Walmart's site) that alligator clips easily to your batteries, and you can place it anywhere, run extension cords from it, etc... no hard wiring needed - just a complimentary inverter to your current one.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/BESTEK-3-...uses/144458776

It provides total 2000W power with 3 AC outlets(flood lights, a TV, a freezer, a refrigerator, rechargeable devices, etc).

twinboat · 03-23-2018, 04:04 PM

If your going to install an inverter, go with a Pure Sine Wave model.

For a bit more $ you get a more modern, effecent, sine wave, inverter. They run electric motors 30% more effecent.

My computer and cordless tool chargers ran hot and took a longer time to charge on a MSW inverter then my PSW one.

This one only draws 1/2 amp while on. Others draw much more, wasting battery capacity.

https://www.thepowerstore.com/xantre...l-gfci-outlets

Danlb · 03-24-2018, 09:00 AM

I did what Twinboat suggested and added a 2000W inverter plus a second set of Interstate GC2 batteries. When dry camping I just adapt power cord down to a 15A plug and plug it in to the inverter. I turn off A/C and converter breakers and run the fridge on gas and can use everything else I need in coach, including microwave for short bursts if desired. We are conservative in our electrical usage but can watch as much satellite tv as we want, use the coffee maker each morning and don't need to run the generator to recharge until the third day.

cgreer00 · 03-24-2018, 05:56 PM

I guess I want it to be clean and hassle free, meaning I don't want to run extension cords and such. The plug for my fridge is hard to access, and to run an extension cord from it to my inverter (which would be installed in the storage below) I would have do drill a hole in the floor or wall, which I really don't want to do. Basically I just want every outlet in the coach to be powered by the inverter, yet I will make sure I never turn on the A/C units or any other high draw item.

Old Scout · 03-24-2018, 06:15 PM

....so then the "clean" way would be to add a second breaker box connected to the inverter with a by-pass function. This is how most rigs with OEM inverters are wired. You could use just the OEM box but you end up having to plug/unplug or manually flip breakers each time you transition from shore power to inverter. The benefit of adding or modifying[ie, reconnect wires to other breakers] the wiring at/near the OEM breaker box is that you do all your work at a central point, vs trying to modify at the other end of a distributed system, eg, like at the plug behind your fridge.
PS--most if not all 2000 watt inverters output/by-pass will limit you to 30 amps total for your rig, if you don't redistribute wiring/add another breaker box.