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Old 12-04-2014, 07:19 PM   #1
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Trimetric 2030RV

Hello, I just ordered the 2030 RV to help keep my batteries in shape.

On the installation, do I unhook all the negative wires from grounding post and connect to one side of shunt? And connect cable from negative terminals to other side of shunt? Or do I need to run a new cable from any negative terminal to the shunt? Just is more difficult after I read instruction manual. Lol

Thank you, chris
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Old 12-05-2014, 01:19 AM   #2
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THe shunt should be installed in SERIES of the battery bank and the ground of all other systems you want monitored. If you remove all grounds from the bank, instal the shunt to the negative terminaland reconnect all ground cables to the other side of shunt, you will have a proper install.
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Old 12-05-2014, 09:57 AM   #3
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Thanks rv wizard : ok, here's my setup. I have 4 group 27's in series. They are connected by small battery cables. I have the large negative cable that connects to the ground post and the first battery negative terminal. And a large cable that connects to the positive of the first battery.

So, can I just use the long
negative cable, cut of course to go from shunt to negative post?

Then everything else on the post goes to the other side of the shunt? , correct? I've read the manual so many times, just not sure. Thanks, Chris
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Old 12-05-2014, 11:46 AM   #4
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The Tri 2030RV monitor is usually used with the 2030SC PWM solar controller. If it is not, some of its functions do not work. You might as well use the 2025RV monitor.

The shunt needs to be connected directly to the battery. Then, all other "load" neg wires connected to the other side of the shunt. Nothing should be connected btwn the shunt and the batt's neg load terminal. Otherwise you will not get a true AH in/out reading.

" I have 4 group 27's in series." Aren't your batts in parallel? Series = an output of 48v, parallel = an output of 12v.

"They are connected by small battery cables." Hopefully, those are short fat wires at least 6 gauge.


See:


http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html
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Old 12-05-2014, 01:43 PM   #5
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Bend Or, thanks for your reply. Yes, they are parallel. Just put it in wrong info, lol. The cables that attach negative to negative and positive to positive are 2/0, so I should be alright. That's what the old battery cable was. I went with this type because the battery tray doesn't extend fully, and it's hard to hookup 4 batteries with top post terminals.

I think I got it now, this battery ground will go to the shunt and negative post. And all other loads on negative post go to other side of shunt. Thanks again, Chris ☺
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Old 12-07-2014, 09:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BendOR View Post
The Tri 2030RV monitor is usually used with the 2030SC PWM solar controller. If it is not, some of its functions do not work. You might as well use the 2025RV monitor.
I've heard a lot of good about those Trimetric monitors and have seen the package deal with the SC2030 controller. The Morningstar Tristar T45 controller is highly rated too and gives a little more growth room although I think the Trimetric controller would be sufficient for my smaller 2 to 4 panel project. Is there a big advantage in linking the SC2030 controller to the 2030 monitor or a loss, besides capacity, if not using the Tristar?
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:42 PM   #7
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The Morningstar Tristar T45 PWM controller linked with a TM 2025RV monitor has been the gold standard for small PWM charging systems for quite a few years. However, they are independent gizmoís that the user has to coordinate. The 2030 system (controller & monitor) do communicate to some degree to affect the charging. I suggest you dig into the manuals of each item to see if it fits your needs and wants. Hopefully, you have done an amp-hour use audit of your RV to define your needs.

TM-2030, TM-2025:
http://bogartengineering.com/content/trimetrics

SC-2030:
http://bogartengineering.com/content/solar-charger

TS-45
http://www.morningstarcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/TS.IOM_.Operators_Manual.04.EN_.pdf
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Old 12-08-2014, 12:54 AM   #8
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Thanks for the reply. I haven't done a real world audit yet with the monitor, just on paper, suggesting maybe 80 to 100AH. This is only for a small RV trailer that'll occasionally be used for a few days here and a few days there type thing. I'm thinking of 2 140w panels feeding 2 6V 260AH batteries. I'm still putting all the pieces together. Even though the SC2030 would work I'm leaning heavy towards the T45.
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:18 AM   #9
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The SC-2030 would be max’ed out with 3x 140w panels, so unless you have limited space (cubic inch) and placement issues in mounting the controller, go with the TS. In addition to your AH audit, research the voltage limits on your RV DC appliances (refer, inverter, furnace, waterheater, etc.) even to the point of wire voltage drop from the DC distribution panel to the appliance. Compare those limits to the battery manufacture’s recommended charging voltages. There will be compromise and maybe additional hardware needed.

Who knows, there may be some longer term boondocking in your future.


BTW, welcome to the board!
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Old 12-08-2014, 11:22 AM   #10
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Iíll check in to that . I hadnít thought that was a concern. Might have something to do with being a cabinetmaker and not an electrician. It seems the charging rates run around 14.2 to 14.8 or sometimes higher with temperature changes but I thought everything downstream either wasnít affected or designed to handle that.

What would be the compromise and what hardware might "fix" things?

Thanks again
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:34 PM   #11
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Most true deep cycle battery manufactures want a temp compensated bulk/boost charge stage voltage of 14.8. Some want more. When cool or cold, temp compensation can push voltages to 15.5v and maybe more.

Most inverters have a high voltage cut-off of 15v. Many newer appliances suggest an absolute high of 15-15.4v. So, itís a good idea to check.

Both the TS and SC have a not-to-exceed voltage setting that can be engaged that saves appliance control boards but sacrifices optimum battery charging voltage, charging time and battery life. No one in the RV industry coordinates this stuff.

Electronic resisters and small buck converters can be placed before individual appliance control boards to reduce voltage. Both waste energy while converting what you paid for to produce.

BTW, thought of using LEDís and a fanless cat propane heater to reduce your AH use?
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:54 PM   #12
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Very much appreciating this feedback....


We're all LED now and will definitely have propane heat available but haven't researched that much....suggestions?


I'm thinking of a KISEA Abso 2000w PSW invertor/generator...I just checked and it's shutoff is at 15.5v. That should work but I'll have to check into the smaller 150/200w "point of use" invertors I'm considering too.


again, thanks
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Old 12-08-2014, 10:24 PM   #13
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Since the subject of the thread is the Trimetric, lets stop here and I'll answer further via PM.

Yes, I know I posed the off-subject question, my bad.
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