TT-30 & 10-30P Receptacle Wiring Difference

[Chris Travels]

Hey everyone! I am doing some research on what is needed to convert the wiring from a 10-30P washer/dryer plug to the common TT-30 RV plug that I would need for my 30 amp coach. Do I attach the wires within the new TT-30 receptacle as they are in the current 10-30P receptacle. Or do I need to get new wiring entirely to make this work? Thanks!

Chris

[70ChevelleSS]

DO NOT connect wires the same way. The 10-30P is a 240 volt connector, 2 hots, ground but no neutral. Your RV is 120 volts, 1 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground. You're better off starting over, new breaker, wiring and plug. Not trying to insult but sounds like you're not real familiar with electrical wiring. You may want to hire an electrician, just make sure he knows the RV is 120 volts, not 240 volts.

[Kiawah]

Originally Posted by Chris Travels

Hey everyone! I am doing some research on what is needed to convert the wiring from a 10-30P washer/dryer plug to the common TT-30 RV plug that I would need for my 30 amp coach. Do I attach the wires within the new TT-30 receptacle as they are in the current 10-30P receptacle. Or do I need to get new wiring entirely to make this work? Thanks!

Chris

Careful, you need to check voltages to avoid burning out many things on your coach.

The power to your coach needs to be 120vac 30 amps, so you need one leg of 120v (typically black), one wire for neutral (typically white), and one wire for ground (typically copper or green).

A 30 amp dryer plug is most likely wired as 240v, leg a as 120vac, leg b as the other out of phase 120vac, and the 3rd wire as a ground.

First, look at your house circuit breaker box, and determine whether it is a single wide breaker (120vac), or a dual breaker (240vac). If dual breaker, you definitely have a problem. Next with a voltmeter, verify at the dryer socket whether you have 240volts there measured leg to leg, or 120 volts.

If you have a single breaker, and you only measure a single leg with 120volts, then you can swap out the receptacle for the one that a shorepower cable can connect to.

If you have a dual breaker and measure 240volts, then you will need to change how your wiring is connected at your house breaker panel, and change the breaker in the breaker box to a single breaker.

Under NO circumstances, plug your 30amp shorepower cord into a receptacle that is wired for 240volts.

[70ChevelleSS]

DaveB, he can do everything you said but there really is no need. The 10-30P is a 240 volt connector so the wiring and breaker would be 2 hots and 1 ground. Not at all suitable for an RV 30 amp connection.

[Route 66]

Everything you need to know about RV electric is here.

RV Electric

[twinboat]

If you hire an electrician to run a new service, insist that it will be a 120 volt, 30 amp Recreational Vehicle service.

Some just assume it's 240 volts and do it wrong. A TT 30 outlet is marked on the back, Line, Neutral and Ground.

They are more like a standard wall outlet, just more amps.

Get a 30 to 15 dogbone adaptor and plug it into your washing machine outlet, that may be all you need for home storage.

[Chris Travels]

Thanks for all of the replies everyone! I will be calling the electrician today. This is for a possible boondocking spot and wanted to know what I was dealing with in regards our power options. Thanks again.

Chris

[70ChevelleSS]

It was early when I first replied. I guess my first cup of coffee hadn't kicked in yet. The wiring itself should be reusable, just need to replace the breaker and outlet. A single 30 amp breaker and a 30 amp RV outlet. Use one hot of the current wiring for the hot in the new setup. Use the 2nd hot wire as the neutral for the new setup. I would use the red hot wire and wrap both ends with white electrical tape to indicate that it is the neutral line. Of course the ground is the ground. That would at least save the existing wire which is probably the most expensive part of the swap.

[Hgrace56]

You don't need a new service run.
Simply connect only one hot 120 volt leg to the new RV outlet.
Any electrician could do this in 10 minutes max.
A 6 pack would probably do.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by Hgrace56

You don't need a new service run.
Simply connect only one hot 120 volt leg to the new RV outlet.
Any electrician could do this in 10 minutes max.
A 6 pack would probably do.

What do you do about the neutral connection ?

The dryer outlet doesn't have one.

[Kiawah]

Originally Posted by twinboat

What do you do about the neutral connection ?

The dryer outlet doesn't have one.

As mentioned previously, you take the wire that is currently used as the 2nd hot, and make it the neutral. Replace the dual circuit breaker with a single brealer, move the 2nd hot line to the neutral buss bar.

You have 2 wires (leg 1 and leg 2) and a ground in the cable right now, you need 2 wires (leg 1 and a neutral) and a ground for the desired 30amp 120vac socket.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by Kiawah

As mentioned previously, you take the wire that is currently used as the 2nd hot, and make it the neutral. Replace the dual circuit breaker with a single brealer, move the 2nd hot line to the neutral buss bar.

You have 2 wires (leg 1 and leg 2) and a ground in the cable right now, you need 2 wires (leg 1 and a neutral) and a ground for the desired 30amp 120vac socket.

I understand that.

The post was a reply, in reference to the 10 minute fix suggestion.

[Hgrace56]

Originally Posted by twinboat

What do you do about the neutral connection ?

The dryer outlet doesn't have one.

If no neutral which is then one of the 120v phases will need to be identified and set to the neutral bus in the panel then landed as neutral on the outlet.
Still a few minutes for any competent electrician.

[Hgrace56]

By the way in my 40 plus years as an electrical contractor in California we never wired a 30 amp and dryer outlet without a neutral.