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Old 10-08-2016, 10:13 AM   #15
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The compressor operates on DC. The AC side coverts to DC then powers the compressor. I have mine connected to my battery and then the charger/power supply takes care of the battery while on 120 v ac. I have not met a switch that can handle both 12v DC and 120v AC. The problem of arcing and welding contacts are different to current. You could use separate switches, They could be mounted side by side.
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Old 10-08-2016, 11:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrq1103 View Post
I know it selects the correct source, but I want a switch between sources so only one source is hot.
I guess I don't understand why you'd need to do this. If you'r driving, you can safely use the 12v source and the alternator will keep the battery charged.

If parked and using shore power or generator, the 120v will handle the job.

If parked and you don't want to deplete the battery, unplug the 12v or install a switch to shut off the 12v to the refrigerator or turn the fridge off. You can set the voltage limit which will shut down the fridge when the DC voltage drops to the one of 3 settings. (manual, pg 34-5)

No need to also switch the 120v, it'll only work when it's available. My suggestion of using a DPDT switch would work, but as Joe (MSHappyCamper) it's against code and not a safe solution.
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Old 10-09-2016, 09:17 AM   #17
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The solution of a DPDT switch would work if he had a single cord. He apparently has two cords, one for 12 VDC and one for 120 VAC. It would take a 4PDT to handle that. IT would be a waste of time and resources given that the system already handles it. IF he does not want one side to work then switch that power cable or unplug it.
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Old 10-09-2016, 09:49 AM   #18
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The solution of a DPDT switch would work if he had a single cord. He apparently has two cords, one for 12 VDC and one for 120 VAC. It would take a 4PDT to handle that. IT would be a waste of time and resources given that the system already handles it. IF he does not want one side to work then switch that power cable or unplug it.
I agree, the solution I first gave was assuming his fridge had a single power cord. The fridge has a built in selector, choosing AC over DC and the DC has 3 levels of voltage to select that shuts down when voltage drops to those thresholds. A simple switch in the 12v line is all that is needed if wired into the 12v circuit instead of plugged into a power outlet.

The only reason I can see for the original question is that perhaps the 3 low voltage threshold settings, 10.1v, 11.4v, and 11.8v are triggering the fridge to turn off when other 12v items are turned on, dropping the voltage and triggering the fridge to turn off. The unit turns voltage on again at 11.1v, 12.2 v, and 12.6v, so they have that covered also. To add a manual switch does raise the possibility that it could be shut off and forgotten, if that's the case, put a freezer temperature alarm in to remind you.
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:01 PM   #19
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Hi, interesting about the DPDT switch scenario ... my Dometic 3-way fridge has one rotary dial with distinct positions for AC/DC/Propane usage. This rotary switch is doing exactly what the OP wants. Both AC & DC power sources are wired in 100% of the time and I switch between the 3 modes using the switch.

Perhaps see if you can find this part from a Dometic RM2653 model?? They no longer make this model but should still be able to order parts for it. You probably wouldn't want separate switches since ,inevitably, both could be set to the "ON" position ... self-defeating what you want.

Cheers,

Steve
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:26 AM   #20
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Actually, less you want to dig into the guts of the thing the solution is TWO switches, they can be SPST or DPST (does not matter)

Break the hot lead using a 20 amp rated switch on the 12 volt side and a 15 amp (or 20) on the A/C side. I have a pendent switch I use for a fan that would work on the A/C side

But the question remains? WHY, since the device auto selects.

I did not find the manual for that but if that is the model I think it is,, It is like my 2nd Freezer.. I don't even bother with 120vac, Just run it on 12.
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Old 11-30-2016, 03:33 PM   #21
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I'm not sure why the OP wants to duplicate exactly what the unit is already doing on it's own, internally.

With both cords plugged in (and assuming there is AC present), the fridge auto-selects 120VAC and disconnects (internally) the 12vdc; although there is still 12vdc present on the cord, there is no current drain. When 120VAC is not available, the fridge auto-selects 12vdc; there is no 120VAC current drain since the voltage on that line does not exist.

What are we missing here? The only other option would be if the OP wants the fridge to run on 12vdc even when 120VAC is present (not sure why, but...), then he can either unplug the 120VAC cord or install an inline switch on that cord (no need for a switch on the 12vdc cord).
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:56 AM   #22
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You are missing the fact that what the OP wants is not as simple as it sounds. His oriiginal post was for one cord between two very different sources so it sounded like a really bad idea. He clarified that he has two power cords and a unit with built in controls that he wants to add more control to. A 4PDT switch would let him switch both cords with one flip but the wiring would be a PITA. Any competent circuit designer can figure it out. The issue is whether or not we want to be responsible if it screws something else up.
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Old 12-01-2016, 06:27 PM   #23
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He clarified that he has two power cords and a unit with built in controls that he wants to add more control to.
I'm still unclear on just what additional "control" he is trying to gain. The only thing that makes even a tiny bit of sense is that he wants the unused supply cord to be dead (not sure why that is important to him, but...). Yes, a 4PDT switch could accomplish that, but as an electrical engineer, I would NEVER mix 12vdc and 120VAC inside the same switch; aside from the fact that it would be illegal, you are asking for trouble. The only safe way would be to use 2 separate switches, one on each cord. Another way would be to wire up a single switch (12vdc or 120VAC) that operates 2 individual latching relays, one for each cord. Alot of complexity for a dubious value, at best.
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Old 12-01-2016, 06:42 PM   #24
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iam only unclear on one thing the OP has stated
why does he want to be able to shut off (isolate)either power ??
for what good reason?
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