Community Forums

Unplanned Tourist · 03-07-2019, 01:07 PM

Just disconnect the house batteries on the negative side. That will tell you what works on house batteries.
Same goes for the chassis batteries.
Go around and try all lights, appliances, slides, etc.
Also try the same with shore power unhooked and hooked up.
The "Salesman Switch" will be the equivalent of unhooking the chassis batteries.
They are all simple systems that are connected through various relays and controls.
Happy Glamping.

MonacoMan84 · 03-07-2019, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unplanned

Just disconnect the house batteries on the negative side. That will tell you what works on house batteries.
Same goes for the chassis batteries.
Go around and try all lights, appliances, slides, etc.
Also try the same with shore power unhooked and hooked up.
The "Salesman Switch" will be the equivalent of unhooking the chassis batteries.
They are all simple systems that are connected through various relays and controls.
Happy Glamping.

I've done this, I know what's on which bank.

The salesman switch doesn't cut off everything, it leaves certain things on actually. And it cuts off the house batteries not the chassis.

What I really need to verify is the location of the solenoid for it.....

RVPioneer · 03-07-2019, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unplanned

Just disconnect the house batteries on the negative side. That will tell you what works on house batteries.
Same goes for the chassis batteries.
Go around and try all lights, appliances, slides, etc.
Also try the same with shore power unhooked and hooked up.
The "Salesman Switch" will be the equivalent of unhooking the chassis batteries.
They are all simple systems that are connected through various relays and controls.
Happy Glamping.

The OP has already stated that he has removed the chassis batteries.

Unplanned Tourist · 03-07-2019, 01:18 PM

You should be able to follow the positive cable to the Salesman Switch solenoid.
It will have 2 large cables, and 1 or 2 small control wires. To bypass it, like you said earlier, just join the 2 heavy cables together on one terminal.

Toribk · 03-07-2019, 04:57 PM

Have you checked the main ground cable from the house batteries to the frame rail to be certain it is tight and free of corrosion?

On my coach, the battery disconnects for the salesman switches are located inside the Battery Control Center (BCC) behind the fuse panel.

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Toribk · 03-07-2019, 05:19 PM

Others may differ, but when I'm troubleshooting DC issues, I always start at the point where the power originates from, in your case your house batteries, and work backwards.

If you confirm your house bank ground is solid by taking a reading at the battery terminal post, then again from positive post to frame and the readings are the same, then continue to follow the positive battery off the house bank to the fuses, solenoid, inverter etc until you find the fault.

Don't just look at your connections, check for tightness and remove any protective coverings and wire loom and look for corrosion on the lugs and cable.

This is what one of our members found when he encountered the same thing.

Click image for larger version

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cavie · 03-08-2019, 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MonacoMan84

So I put a test light on both sides of that bussman fuse in the battery compartment it's not the culprit.

shore power is fine and the inverter charger is definitely working because I do have 12 volt power to my slides and also to the heater in my wet Bay.

I have no 12 volt lighting no water pump and for whatever reason my EMS is not lighting up.

I have of course check the individual fuses for these items and they're not blown either.

My Magnum energy control panel is lighting up and shows that it's charging the batteries but my load-shedding meter that normally shows what type of service I have from the pedestal is not lit up nor are any of my controls tank monitors etc.

I was able to put portable heaters where they needed to go and so far nothing has froze however the coache is really not livable this way and it's my only home.

Other ideas?

Slide fuses are not in the converter. They are inline straight from the battery.

cavie · 03-08-2019, 05:33 AM

Use a multi-meter and start at the batteries and follow your nose. Without a meter you are wasting your time. Slides, leveling systems, awnings and steps are usually direct wiring from the battery with inline fuses.

CountryB · 03-09-2019, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MonacoMan84

I've done this, I know what's on which bank.

The salesman switch doesn't cut off everything, it leaves certain things on actually. And it cuts off the house batteries not the chassis.

What I really need to verify is the location of the solenoid for it.....

Look at post #16 (middle picture). It is in the front distribution box (inside the internal electrical box). it looks like an old style car starter solenoid). You can by-pass it by putting both big cables on the same terminal.

OLYLEN · 03-09-2019, 07:04 PM

Think one problem is your plugged in so your inverter/converter is supplying power and the batteries MAY be supplying power also. With both supplies it's hard to determine what is or is not working correctly. Pull the shore power for a couple and do a quick check on things. That may give a hint of where the problem is.

LEN

MonacoMan84 · 03-10-2019, 11:07 AM

Okay thanks to everyone who posted.

I was able to locate the solenoid for the salesman switch and it was defective. By jumping the two cables together everything turned back on, for a while anyway.

Obviously there was more going on here as I was moving around in the RV I noticed when I stomp on the floor the lights would flicker. Obviously a sign of a bad ground or loose connection somewhere.

Over the course of the next couple hours the 12-volt power would come on and then turn off randomly and then come on again.

Finally it shut off and when it came back on I had most of my lights my toilet and that's it . My thermostat is still dead water pump is still dead EMS panel and control panel are still dead.

Test light confirms power is passing to most places and I can't find any blown fuses but I only have half of my 12 volt system now.....which is still way more than I had before and I am grateful for it.

Also we've made it through the worst of the weather and nothing froze as my water system was working perfectly fine this morning.

I am absolutely stumped as to what's going on and I don't know where to look next.....

Toribk · 03-10-2019, 11:42 AM

Based on your comment about movement in the coach causing your lights to flicker, check first the backside of the salesman switches for a loose or corroded connection at the switch.

Toribk · 03-10-2019, 11:52 AM

MonacoMan84

By any chance do you have the DC schematics for your coach?

There are a number of ground busses and power post typically found on both the inside firewall (usually in the area behind the accelerator and brake pedal) and the outside.

The schematics for your coach would be a big help.

MonacoMan84 · 03-13-2019, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toribk

Based on your comment about movement in the coach causing your lights to flicker, check first the backside of the salesman switches for a loose or corroded connection at the switch.

at this point I'm only using the salesman switch as a binding post for the two cables it's been completely eliminated so I'm not sure that would be the issue.

I do have some schematics for my coach.