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KTM251ss · 11-19-2018, 04:55 AM

Is there any issues with residential refrigerator failures related to the vibration, shaking they receive while driving a Class A RV?

I am asking because I just installed a French door GE and I've got it set in the cabinet and have some secure precautions so it won't fall out. It has tabs on the bottom so it won't slide out from the bottom, an "L" bracket screwed to the back bottom. Yesterday i placed some firm foam at each side to prevent the front to back movement (actually side to side of refrigerator but front to back of the coach)so movement is almost non existent. I also placed a bit of foam across the front top at the hinges to help front to back movement and tipping. It can jiggle a little bit, probably maybe a quarter inch play at most.

This is about all I can do as this cavity wasn't made for this refrigerator, the Norcold was mounted solid, this one kinds sits in there and it's not possible to bolt it down solid.

If it matters I do not plan to run the compressor while traveling, only when stopped either for the night or for a break at a rest stop, I can fire up the generator and cool it back off.

I am probably overthinking this but just how secure, solid do they need to be?

I love the larger capacity and the elimination of the headache's the Norcold gave us. It's a 2016 and it failed twice, last time was the cooling unit.

Thanks!

Waiter21 · 11-19-2018, 05:52 AM

I was concerned about vibration breaking the small tubes. Mine has a couple refrigerant tubes that look like they could vibrate so I wire tied them, and also ran a bead of silicon sealant across the tubes to dampen any vibration. These were near the compressor and inside the condensate tray.

On mine, I can see the back of the frig from outside, the old outside access panel.

Residential Frig Replacement – 1999 Southwind 35S

The top photo shows a small capillary tube. I wire tired it to a nearby tube and then coated it with silicon sealant.

The bottom photo shows the refrigerant lines zig-zagging inside the condensate tray. I placed a small ran a small bead of silicon sealant across the tubes, then laid a Popsicle stick on top of the sealant . This should reduce/eliminate any vibrations from these tubes.

NOTE - When I winterize, I make sure there isn't any water in this tray. and pour a little antifreeze in the try.

Road Pilot · 11-19-2018, 06:57 AM

We've had two motorhomes with residential refrigerators and put on many tens of thousands of miles and never had a refrigerator (Whirlpool and a GE) fail. We have had doors that opened on turns until I installed a latch.

Bigd9 · 11-19-2018, 07:13 AM

Be careful putting foam rubber around the top and sides of the refrigerator. Each manufacturer/model will have minimum clear distances that need to be maintained for proper ventilation and cooling.

KTM251ss · 11-19-2018, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigd9

Be careful putting foam rubber around the top and sides of the refrigerator. Each manufacturer/model will have minimum clear distances that need to be maintained for proper ventilation and cooling.

Thanks, it's just a small 2" x 3" piece so air can still flow.

LookAtUSNow · 11-19-2018, 11:36 AM

Installed a residential 4 years ago, traveled from SE corner to NW corner twice, used generator some, sometime no gen for up to 6 hours so fridge was off, rough roads, even a trip trough Yellowstone (that I’ll never do again in Rv), no problems, no concerns, no regrets on the fridges. Your method of securing sound similar to mine. I used metal straps with multiple holes and was able to back out various bolts on refer to secure straps. I also put a board across the top about mid ways in cabinet so refer could not tip past that point.