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Old 03-20-2005, 07:05 PM   #1
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My neighbor has a 2004 Suncruiser with a 12 cu ft refrigerator. He can start the fridge on level ground, and within about an hour after arriving in front of his house it shuts off. Even if he is using 110 electricity it will shut off. After it shuts itselfe off twice, he must go to the dealer to get it re-started. The dealer says they don't know what is wrong. I think maybe he has a faulty fridge. Anyone have any ideas??? Thanks,

John
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Old 03-20-2005, 07:05 PM   #2
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My neighbor has a 2004 Suncruiser with a 12 cu ft refrigerator. He can start the fridge on level ground, and within about an hour after arriving in front of his house it shuts off. Even if he is using 110 electricity it will shut off. After it shuts itselfe off twice, he must go to the dealer to get it re-started. The dealer says they don't know what is wrong. I think maybe he has a faulty fridge. Anyone have any ideas??? Thanks,

John
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Old 03-21-2005, 05:52 AM   #3
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John, we're gonna need a little more info, like the fridge model # and more explanation of the conditions when it quits. If he turns off coach power (house battery switch), that knocks out the 12vdc; -and the fridge needs 12vdc even when on 110vac to work.
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Old 03-21-2005, 05:31 PM   #4
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The fridge in question is a 1201 Norcold, ser #1245802. When he parks in front of his house (about a 2 degree slope), plugs into 110vac and starts it up, it will run for about 2 hours or so; then it dies. He leaves the coach battery on (I have heard the clicking outside). It has, on occasion, quit on him in a campground. Any ideas?? Thanks.

John
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Old 03-22-2005, 02:54 AM   #5
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Norcold recommends operation in a +/- 2 degree off-level situation; -that's about a "half-bubble" off level using one of those little circular bullseye levels.
What intrigues me is that you say it runs, cools down, then quits 2 hours later. And it does this at campgrounds, where I assume he is very level with the coach.
Before I'd take it in to a dealer, I'd try running it "all day" on LP gas. Remember, these things don't run continuously... -they cool down, shut off after reaching setpoint, then come back on cooling later as needed. If it acts up in the LP gas mode (shuts off, won't relight itself, & starts getting warmer after several hours), I'd say something is wrong with the 'brain box' and a trip to the dealer would be in order.
Is he seeing error codes on the display, like "NO/CO"? Some off these codes require the dealer to reset the fridge after it errors twice. (Although there are prior posts in this forum about resetting the fridge by grounding certain pins on the electrical plug at the brain... -caution: different pin numbers for different fridge models). If he sees these error codes and can't resolve them with his Norcold Manual, I'd suggest a trip to the dealer to resolve the problem(s). I recall prior posts about Norcold admitting to having some wacky black boxes out there, and the brains were replaced n/c.
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Old 03-22-2005, 03:11 AM   #6
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John, also look here:
Norcold 1201 problem
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Old 03-22-2005, 03:22 AM   #7
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John, Has anyone looked up through the ventting area up above the outside vent cover? I have found insullation had fallen and was covering the condensor coil of the ref. It would do exactly as you discribe. The control board is doing as it was designed; protecting the cooling unit from overheating. If this is the problem; you will have to remove the blockage for the unit to cool without overheating and all will be well.
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Old 03-22-2005, 04:28 AM   #8
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Mike and "Troth": Thank you both for the information. I will pass it on to my neighbor, and we will do what we can to make things happen this weekend. You are both great examples of what the internet is intended to be used for. Thanks again.

John
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