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12-07-2005, 07:38 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Texas hillcountry USA
Posts: 530
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Would there be any problem (electrolisis issues) with replacing the PLASTIC drain plug on an Atwood W. heater with a metal drain valve so I could just open the valve to drain it instead of removing the plastic plug which wears the threads out after a few times? Maybe just a metal plug instead of plastic?
__________________
Robert & Nancy with "Murphy the EOG"
Murphy has passed on, but Micah and Bogie have assumed the watch! 02 Holiday Rambler 5ver, 2015 Indian Chief Vintage. 98 Coachmen truck camper.
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12-07-2005, 07:38 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Texas hillcountry USA
Posts: 530
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Would there be any problem (electrolisis issues) with replacing the PLASTIC drain plug on an Atwood W. heater with a metal drain valve so I could just open the valve to drain it instead of removing the plastic plug which wears the threads out after a few times? Maybe just a metal plug instead of plastic?
__________________
Robert & Nancy with "Murphy the EOG"
Murphy has passed on, but Micah and Bogie have assumed the watch! 02 Holiday Rambler 5ver, 2015 Indian Chief Vintage. 98 Coachmen truck camper.
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12-07-2005, 10:00 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,177
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Exactly! I've got a 3/4 male to 3/8 female brass reducer, and a brass radiator petcock from NAPA screwed into that. Lotsa dealers and camper suppliy stores have this stuff. I drain my water heater after every campout (along with the tanks).
Others even attach brass or cpvc plastic valves, elbows, etc.
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Last Brave 2004 34D
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12-07-2005, 05:07 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 530
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I did put a petcock on my water heater in our old Motorhome. With this on I didn't. After looking at the Water Heater paperwork there is still water in the bottom of the water heater after you drain it. I think in a 10 gallon there's about 2 quarts and the 5, about 1 quart. After draining I use a piece of clear plastic hose and remove the rest.
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12-14-2005, 05:49 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,593
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Electrolysis happens when galvanizing(zinc) and copper touch. My HWH has the anode rod in the drain plug as I think most do. We bought a 2005 5er last April and the anode rod is already pitted deeply, which is good because this is reducing corrosion to the HWH tank itself. With our old 5er I added a radiator drain petcock for ease of winterizing, but after seeing this new 5er's anode rod I'll keep it as is. I've just gotta remember where that 1 1/8" socket hides.
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2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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12-15-2005, 05:15 AM
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#6
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,519
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Ray,
Two Bit's Atwood heater does not use an anode rod, so no problem there.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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12-15-2005, 06:40 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 27
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Atwood water heaters are a "glass" lined aluminum tank. No anode rod needed. Suburban water heaters are a steel tank that will corrode, just like the tank in a house. They use the drain plug with the anode rod.
Putting a metal plug in an Atwood water heater will void your warranty. Besides, the plastic ones are what? $1-$1.50 for a pack of two? If they leak, try wrapping with teflon tape. If you cross thread that metal plug, you screw up the tank. If you cross thread a plastic plug, you screw up the plug. Simple economics.
The little amount of water left in the bottom of the water heater, after being drained, will not hurt anything at all. -20*f will not split the tank if that water is in there. I would recommend putting the plug back in the hole one or two turns to keep bugs and debris out. When you get ready to use the water heater again, remove the plug, start your water flow (wether it be from the pump or city connection), and let it run for at least 5 minutes before putting the plug back in. That will get rid of the nasty water left in the bottom.
Don't put a petcock in the drain please. Nothing gets a service tech in a bad mood faster than having to drain the tank and finding one of those things in there. They take FOREVER to drain.
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12-16-2005, 07:51 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,593
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
Don't put a petcock in the drain please. Nothing gets a service tech in a bad mood faster than having to drain the tank and finding one of those things in there. They take FOREVER to drain. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I can't imagine anyone not just unscrewing the reducer instead of opening the petcock when in a hurry. Using the petcock and a length of 3/8" ID tubing will drain the HWH into a bucket instead of all over the floor to work in.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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03-15-2006, 05:06 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Howell, New Jersey
Posts: 360
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Just the other day I wrote to Atwood and asked the same questions about brass plug. Their response:
Yes you can use brass, just not galvanized, without any problem.
__________________
Tim ,Retired Police Lt. 2002 Winnebago Adventurer+16' Trailer
Harley Road King and Heritage Classic+,Trik-L-start,Hughes Autoformer. Blue Tick Coon hound
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