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Old 12-07-2005, 07:38 AM   #1
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Would there be any problem (electrolisis issues) with replacing the PLASTIC drain plug on an Atwood W. heater with a metal drain valve so I could just open the valve to drain it instead of removing the plastic plug which wears the threads out after a few times? Maybe just a metal plug instead of plastic?
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Old 12-07-2005, 07:38 AM   #2
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Would there be any problem (electrolisis issues) with replacing the PLASTIC drain plug on an Atwood W. heater with a metal drain valve so I could just open the valve to drain it instead of removing the plastic plug which wears the threads out after a few times? Maybe just a metal plug instead of plastic?
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Old 12-07-2005, 10:00 AM   #3
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Exactly! I've got a 3/4 male to 3/8 female brass reducer, and a brass radiator petcock from NAPA screwed into that. Lotsa dealers and camper suppliy stores have this stuff. I drain my water heater after every campout (along with the tanks).
Others even attach brass or cpvc plastic valves, elbows, etc.
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Old 12-07-2005, 05:07 PM   #4
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I did put a petcock on my water heater in our old Motorhome. With this on I didn't. After looking at the Water Heater paperwork there is still water in the bottom of the water heater after you drain it. I think in a 10 gallon there's about 2 quarts and the 5, about 1 quart. After draining I use a piece of clear plastic hose and remove the rest.
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Old 12-14-2005, 05:49 PM   #5
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Electrolysis happens when galvanizing(zinc) and copper touch. My HWH has the anode rod in the drain plug as I think most do. We bought a 2005 5er last April and the anode rod is already pitted deeply, which is good because this is reducing corrosion to the HWH tank itself. With our old 5er I added a radiator drain petcock for ease of winterizing, but after seeing this new 5er's anode rod I'll keep it as is. I've just gotta remember where that 1 1/8" socket hides.
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Old 12-15-2005, 05:15 AM   #6
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Ray,
Two Bit's Atwood heater does not use an anode rod, so no problem there.
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Old 12-15-2005, 06:40 PM   #7
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Atwood water heaters are a "glass" lined aluminum tank. No anode rod needed. Suburban water heaters are a steel tank that will corrode, just like the tank in a house. They use the drain plug with the anode rod.

Putting a metal plug in an Atwood water heater will void your warranty. Besides, the plastic ones are what? $1-$1.50 for a pack of two? If they leak, try wrapping with teflon tape. If you cross thread that metal plug, you screw up the tank. If you cross thread a plastic plug, you screw up the plug. Simple economics.

The little amount of water left in the bottom of the water heater, after being drained, will not hurt anything at all. -20*f will not split the tank if that water is in there. I would recommend putting the plug back in the hole one or two turns to keep bugs and debris out. When you get ready to use the water heater again, remove the plug, start your water flow (wether it be from the pump or city connection), and let it run for at least 5 minutes before putting the plug back in. That will get rid of the nasty water left in the bottom.

Don't put a petcock in the drain please. Nothing gets a service tech in a bad mood faster than having to drain the tank and finding one of those things in there. They take FOREVER to drain.
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Old 12-16-2005, 07:51 PM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
Don't put a petcock in the drain please. Nothing gets a service tech in a bad mood faster than having to drain the tank and finding one of those things in there. They take FOREVER to drain. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I can't imagine anyone not just unscrewing the reducer instead of opening the petcock when in a hurry. Using the petcock and a length of 3/8" ID tubing will drain the HWH into a bucket instead of all over the floor to work in.
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Old 03-15-2006, 05:06 AM   #9
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Just the other day I wrote to Atwood and asked the same questions about brass plug. Their response:

Yes you can use brass, just not galvanized, without any problem.
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