Water heater electric heating won't work

[ascdds]

I have a Suburban electric/propane water heater. I drained the tank before our last trip. I started to refill it but before it filled the DW flipped the switch on for the electric heating element, not knowing that was a no-no. Now the electric won't work. The propane works fine. The manual says to push the reset button. I have attached photos of the reset button(s) which are two rubber circles that say "push to reset". I have pushed them and felt nothing click and the electric still doesn't work. Am I missing something? Any ideas?

[CLIFFTALL]

Sounds like the electric element needs to be replaced.

[MSHappyCampers]

Try pushing on the flat surface where it says "Push to Reset".

[Old-Biscuit]

Turning electric element on BEFORE water heater tank is filled with water burns the element out.
Dry firing....element doesn't last very long. Needs to be submerged so heat is absorbed by water.


Left 'Push to Reset' is for the 120V AC circuit....High temp t-stat trips (170*F) should normal temp t-stat fail to open (130*F)
Should High temp t-sta trip it has to be manually reset by pushing the button back in....will feel resistance when resetting


Element is under the oval cover below/behind gas valve ---to left of anode drain rod
Need a 1 1/2" thin walled socket to unscrew.
120V AC 1440W element...any hardware store....standard element


Have to remove gas valve/burner tube to have easy access to element for removal/replacement


Turn AC circuit breaker OFF
Check element continuity
1) voltmeter leads on Black and White terminals.....show continuity then element is OK (no continuity element burnt out)
2) voltmeter leads on White terminal and element flange....shows continuity then element has shorted out

[Old-Biscuit]

Couldn't edit my post......


First question that should have been asked/answered is:


The OEM On/Off switch in lower left corner ---outside compartment
Was it ON or OFF
OEM switch plus any additional switch inside for electric have to be ON for element to be energized


If ON.....element probably toast
If OFF...no harm/no foul

[Isaac-1]

Yep, element will burn out in a second or so if it is not in water, if you are going to change yourself, you will want to buy this wrench socket too unless you already own a thin wall socket that will fit the element https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-Profe.../dp/B00361V162


don't even bother with the cheap stamped metal wrenches, they are a waste of money



Ike

[Old-Biscuit]

Did you get it working on electric????

[ascdds]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Did you get it working on electric????

Been very busy with work and haven’t had time to work on it. Propane still works good so I can wait until I have time. Seems like it will be an easy fix tho

[Rkesselus]

Not trying to hijack the post but while on the subject I have never decided when it was prudent to use the electric element and would be interested in how others make use of same. Thanks Richard

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Rkesselus

Not trying to hijack the post but while on the subject I have never decided when it was prudent to use the electric element and would be interested in how others make use of same. Thanks Richard

Electric has roughly 6 gal/hr recovery rate

Propane as roughly 10 gal/hr recovery rate
BOTH On...16 gal/hr recovery rate
(recovery rate based on 70*F water supply)




When to use electric....when you are hooked up to AC Power preferably at a CG where electric is part of site fee


If at CG site with electric meter (electric extra) then it is a matter of kw/h rate vs cost of propane per gallon
1 gal of propane is equivalent to 23 kw/h




Both heat sources control heating of water to same temp
(Suburban---130*F and Atwood 140*F)




Propane at $2.76/gal is same as electric at 0.12 kw/h

[charliez]

You can get a replacement element at Lowes. The threads are the same as a regular house w/h. Make sure power is off, remove the little screw and the cover. remove the two wires, unscrew the old element and out it all back together. It doesn't matter which wire goes on which side of the element.


Don't tell anyone else about the switch. Turn it off when you are packing up, and don't turn it on again until your at your next stop and you have verified there is water in the w/h. Safety net.

[Pigman1]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Turning electric element on BEFORE water heater tank is filled with water burns the element out.
Dry firing....element doesn't last very long. Needs to be submerged so heat is absorbed by water.


Left 'Push to Reset' is for the 120V AC circuit....High temp t-stat trips (170*F) should normal temp t-stat fail to open (130*F)
Should High temp t-sta trip it has to be manually reset by pushing the button back in....will feel resistance when resetting


Element is under the oval cover below/behind gas valve ---to left of anode drain rod
Need a 1 1/2" thin walled socket to unscrew.
120V AC 1440W element...any hardware store....standard element


Have to remove gas valve/burner tube to have easy access to element for removal/replacement


Turn AC circuit breaker OFF
Check element continuity
1) voltmeter leads on Black and White terminals.....show continuity then element is OK (no continuity element burnt out)
2) voltmeter leads on White terminal and element flange....shows continuity then element has shorted out

Old Biscuit's got it right. If you don't have a LARGE socket to fit the element, Home Depot, Lowes or an Ace hardware store may have a wrench just made to replace the element or the anode. I used a large Phillips screwdriver to turn the wrench as these are usually VERY tight the first time you have to remove them. Use teflon tape when reinstalling and you won't have any more problems from an oopse.

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by ascdds

Been very busy with work and haven’t had time to work on it. Propane still works good so I can wait until I have time. Seems like it will be an easy fix tho

Was OEM electric switch in outside compartment ON?


I take it you have an inside switch also....one that wife turned on/outside switch should have been turned OFF when draining water heater

[nothermark]

My first step in winterizing is to count jugs of antifreeze. Second step is to tape the switches for gas and electric heaters off. Last step in de winterizing is to remove tape.