Community Forums

JWatkins · 05-03-2009, 12:29 AM

Yes, I have read a lot of posts on this subject and I am just wondering what this symptom is most likely. The heater will fire, then go out after several seconds and the pilot out light will come on. IS this likely spider webs, etc or is it likely the thermal fuse, or something else. It has been working just fine.
Thanks,
Joe

charles tuit · 05-03-2009, 06:56 AM

Your temperature sensor could possibly be bad. They are 1 or 2 buttons with 2 wires each behind a black styrofoam pad on the front of your heater. With the unit turned on (with water cold) power should be going to and out of the sensors. If only going in the sensor is bad. They are about $15 at a RV supply store.

Charlie Tuit
2002 Journey
111,000 miles
XR-7 toad

JWatkins · 05-03-2009, 10:47 AM

OK, I took a look this morning. I removed the tube and inspected it, removed and re-inserted the connections, etc. Sitting there with the door open, it ran fine. Thought I had "fixed" it. Shut the door and it got noisy from the flame sputtering and then went out. Would not restart but for a few seconds (the original problem). I opened the door and voila! Obviously it has the infamous starving for air syndrome. Why now after all these years (2004) I have no clue. I guess I will break out the dremel and get a small vent and have a go at it unless there are any other suggestion other than bending the door.

I thought about popping out the site glass, but that seems to be in a bad location since it is right at the flame area.

Joe

Cousin Ed · 05-03-2009, 10:57 AM

I've had mine do that a few times. I think it's spiders. Try blowing it out if you have air available or vacuum it. Let it run (open) for a few minutes then close it up & try again. If that doesn't work I'm lost!

JC2 · 05-03-2009, 11:17 AM

You are encountering what a lot of us have experianced with the LP side of Atwood WH's in Winnie products. Our MH would periodically experiance the light and then go out syndrome and after 3 times would go in to lockout mode. There have been numerous posts on this forum about possible "fixes" to this design flaw. What I did was open the metal door cover, light the burner and adjust the slide valve to where I got a basically blue flame with a slight roaring noise. This is usually indicative of to much air/gas mix but when the door(s) are closed, it quiets down a lot. This seems to have done the fix for me but in the future I will , if needed, cut several small oblong slits in the bottom lip of the door. Others have also put a very small louvered type vent in the door also.

I would try the adjustment first, the maybe the slots on the underside, then the small round louvered vents last.

JWatkins · 05-04-2009, 12:15 AM

Thanks everyone. I think I will get out the Dremel and put a small vent in.
Joe

DAN L · 05-04-2009, 04:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWatkins

Thanks everyone. I think I will get out the Dremel and put a small vent in.
Joe

my atwood water heater worked fine until i had to replace the pressure/temperature safety valve because it was leaking constantly.

then it would work with the access door open, but not closed.

i adjusted my slide valve to full air open, popped out the sight glass, and drilled 12 1/4" holes near the bottom of the access door.
all is well now.

JC2 · 05-04-2009, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAN L

my atwood water heater worked fine until i had to replace the pressure/temperature safety valve because it was leaking constantly.

then it would work with the access door open, but not closed.

i adjusted my slide valve to full air open, popped out the sight glass, and drilled 12 1/4" holes near the bottom of the access door.
all is well now.