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GypsyDon · 06-11-2017, 12:43 PM

Ever since my water heater had a thermostat failure (since replaced) and the water boiled over out the relief valve, my water pump has difficulty turning off. It started out that it simply took a little more time. It is as if pressure cannot build on the output side of the pump. Now 6 months later, it will not turn off at all. We are full timers but use city water much of the time. It really became an issue when we started a two month trip that was mostly boondocking. There are no discernible leaks under or inside the coach. Water heater is working fine. Anybody have any thoughts?

Unplanned Tourist · 06-11-2017, 12:49 PM

It sounds like you may have something stuck in your pump, holding the check valve open. How high does the pressure go?

GypsyDon · 06-11-2017, 01:02 PM

Thanks! Can you help me understand in layman, musician terms, what and how to do what you replied about my check valve and testing pressure? BTW, the water pressure is very good inside the coach, just won't build enough pressure to turn the pump off anymore.

Stajones · 06-11-2017, 01:13 PM

Do you have a big cartridge type filter near the pump?

Unplanned Tourist · 06-11-2017, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GypsyDon

Thanks! Can you help me understand in layman, musician terms, what and how to do what you replied about my check valve and testing pressure? BTW, the water pressure is very good inside the coach, just won't build enough pressure to turn the pump off anymore.

You need to get an in-line pressure gauge or some way to check your water pressure. If it's going too high, that would indicate the pressure switch in the pump is bad.
On the other hand, if it's low, you may have an air leak somewhere in the lines or the filter before the pump. Or as I said, something in the valves.
Often the filter just before the pump develops a crack from freezing or over tightening. This will let the pump draw air into the system and cause the pump to run overtime.
Lots to check, but good luck.

**CountryFit** · 06-11-2017, 02:53 PM

you mentioned the heater t/p relief valve... have you replaced it? a leaky t/p relief valve will make your pump keep running.

Unplanned Tourist · 06-11-2017, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CountryFit

you mentioned the heater t/p relief valve... have you replaced it? a leaky t/p relief valve will make your pump keep running.

I'm guessing he would see the leak if that was the case.
OP, is there any leaks?

dennis45 · 06-11-2017, 07:20 PM

How about the obvious simple stuff first.

Do you have a valve to turn on to fill your fresh water tank with city water? If so, are you absolutely sure it's turned Off TIGHT, meaning in the position where it does not allow city water into your fresh water tank?

If it is even a slight bit OPEN the pump will not reach full pressure and continue to run.

Next, do you have a hot water tank by pass and a suction line to draw anti freeze into the system?
Check to make sure the by pass valves are positioned so the water is going through the heater and not by passing.
Then check to make sure the anti freeze suction valve is closed TIGHT. If not, the pump will continue to run.

These are the two most common things that will cause the pump to run.

**CountryFit** · 06-11-2017, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unplanned

I'm guessing he would see the leak if that was the case.
OP, is there any leaks?

he said "...the water boiled over out the relief valve."

GypsyDon · 06-12-2017, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stajones

Do you have a big cartridge type filter near the pump?

No, i do not have a cartridge filter near the pump. Air is definitely getting in to the system somewhere. It has to do with the water heater boil over event but I can't isolate it yet.

Stajones · 06-13-2017, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GypsyDon

No, i do not have a cartridge filter near the pump. Air is definitely getting in to the system somewhere. It has to do with the water heater boil over event but I can't isolate it yet.

Yes - that's where I was heading, but sounds like you've on that track. Hopefully you've found a place to "surefire" bleed the system. My filter has a small push button on top for refilling the container after replacing the cartridge. I've had to bleed the system SEVERAL times (after introducing air) before everything returned to normal. Good luck!

Winemaker2 · 06-13-2017, 08:28 AM

Some pumps have a pressure adjustment...mine was a screw on the end of the pump. I had run mine up / down a couple of times to get it to work correctly...may have been dirt that frees up???

skruske · 06-15-2017, 03:56 AM

If adjusting the pressure cutoff does not fix the problem, go to Home Depot, Lowes, Menards ect and get a couple caps that will allow you to isolate where the pressure is being lost. You may need male and female caps.

Start at the pump. Remove the outlet line & cap the outlet of the pump. Turn the pump on & it should start and shut off immediately. Continue following the cold water lines opening and capping them at each junction.

If you suspect the problem may be related to the water heater, turn the bypass valves & try the water pump.

I did read recently of a fellow who had a similar problem. Turns out his outside shower was turned on at the valves but the shower head was turned off. His pump was cycling on off & taking a long time to stabilize.

In the same vain, you may have a faucet "leaking" but not out the spout. The water may be contained within the system but passing through from hot to cold or vice versa.

Good luck.