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Old 04-01-2013, 06:35 AM   #29
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5?

[QUOTE=Dupdyke;1514531]Sorry in the five monaco's I have put Samsung refers in...

These were your coaches?
If you bought in bulk you might get a substantial discount.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:38 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Route 66 View Post
Great documentation.

Was the cause of the rotted wood found?
The old ice maker water line had a small leak just before the valve that went unnoticed for a long time. That portion of the wood platform was very spongy and falling apart.


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Some of us do not have room to install a residential fridge. The 197 is 6" too wide and 6" too deep to replace mine. Luckily I have the Dometic which has only had one recall and runs well on both electric and gas. Yes it is small, but we live in the coach for 3 months straight and I can live with having to go shopping more often. If you are worried about LPG you can disconnect that and use an inverter just like the residential fridge. Yes I know it is less efficient. If you want a more efficient fridge and don't have much room there is an alternative Vitrifrigo Refrigeration
Residential refrigerators are not for everyone. It's a personal choice for many reasons.

However, there are many different sizes of residential type fridges available in the marketplace today that if someone REALLY wanted to replace their RV type fridge without having to do ANYTHING to the opening there is one that will fit right in.

For those that now have a four door Dometic or Norcold, Frigidaire has a model that will fit the same opening. Here is the link to that fridge.

Frigidaire FFHT1513L 14.8 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator with 2 Sliding Wire Shelves, Store-More Gallon Door Bins, Full-Width Freezer Rack and Ready-Select Controls

It comes in four color choices.

There are also smaller ones that will replace the old 2 door model RV frig. I did that in a 1992 Airstream Landyacht where a new RV fridge would have been $1800 to replace and the apartment size fridge was only $250 and had a lot more capacity than the RV fridge.

It depends on what you want, need or choose to do with your RV.

What's most important is whatever WORKS for you.

This thread IS about "What Good are the Residential Refers". They have worked for years inside your S&B house and they will work the same inside your RV.

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Old 04-02-2013, 08:04 AM   #31
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Bruce:

Dometic:
I have the Model RM2852.
Product Number 921 14 60-57.
Serial Number 117 05437.

In fairness, the refer has worked fine. The gas part crapped out while off the grid a couple weeks back and my camping neighbor Stan the man from Cranston, RI plugged in his compressor and blew out the port where the gas flame is aimed at. Fired right up after that.

Then I flew home because of an emergency and upon return the gas didn't work or the electric.

I only had a few days left so major trouble shooting needed to wait my return.

This is a 2002 coach that has been well maintained. I'll not give up on the Dometic without first doing some additional trouble shooting. I just have to get a bit more familiar with it.

That Summit unit looks like a good fit. However, the solar panel/extra batteries and maybe dedicated inverter that goes with a residential conversion I do not find attractive.

60Vette
Understood .... as a 2002 coach, the Dometic may be worth replacing parts .... my 1997 was not.

BTW, Lowes has some similar sized reefers (to the Summit) but the one's I looked at did not have the Panasonic compressor. Didn't hear them running so can't comment on quietness. They were cheaper at about $400 - $500 plus tax. The Summit I chose is without icemaker. Not an issue for me ... I'd rather have the freezer capacity and not have the plumbing. A pair of ice cube trays work fine.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:37 PM   #32
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I agree that in the discussion between using the gas fridge or the residential fridge, either can be a right choice. It's a matter of what works for you.

We needed to change our old N623 Norcold. It was simply worn out. So we installed a residential fridge. It was a simple, inexpensive solution.

For those of us with coaches that already have a bank of batteries for the house, an inverter to supply 120V from those batteries, an alternator to charge those batteries while driving, a generator to charge those batteries when boondocking, and now auto start available for the generator, and solar power has become an available viable option, the residential fridge is an easy solution. In fact, in this setup, one might wonder why a person would choose to want to have propane on board to run a fridge. (In my case, I have a propane generator, so I reason that the fridge can burn the propane directly, or I can let the generator burn it).

I also believe (although I can't prove this) that the new fridges today are a lot more efficient in their power usage. Our Norcold was only 7.4 cu.ft. Our residential fridge that replaces it is 9.5 cu.ft. We really appreciate the increase in space. When our fridge is running, it draws .7 amps on 120V. I assume that would mean a draw of about 8 1/2 amps on 12V through the inverter. Considering how little the fridge actually runs, particularly through the night when the doors are not being opened, I consider that the fridge power draw is a negligible factor in considering power management in our coach. The generator has to start in the morning to make our coffee with either fridge, and has to run for about the same length of time to charge the batteries.

A propane fridge does not run for nothing. On a coach with all the features I previously mentioned, it would be interesting to hear what it actually costs to run a residential fridge.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:52 AM   #33
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The only true way to determine how much energy is used to run a residential is to install a Kill-a-Watt meter to measure the amount of watts used over a 30 day period of full-time use.

Some library's have them to rent for members with cards.

It doesn't matter how much you are paying for a KW as that changes depending on where you are located but the number of Watts will not change unless the way you use the fridge changes.

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Old 07-22-2013, 02:18 PM   #34
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Scott Louisiana?

Quote:
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Joe,

The RV shop decided that the curb side salon window was the best for removing the NotSoCold and bringing in the Samsung. It was much easier than removing seats, door arm, etc. to bring it in through the door. They only had to remove the window valance, day/night shade and then the window. That took them about 10-15 minutes and it was less time to install it all back again.

The cost was $1150 for the fridge which I ordered from Warehouse Discount Center in CA and had it delivered free to Scott, LA. The labor and misc parts and material were about another $1000.

Depending on what RV shop you choose, the labor cost can be significantly different. Some have had it installed for a few hundred dollars. It all depends on your location within the US. For me it didn't make sense to spend significant money for diesel to save a few bucks on labor.

Photo documentary of the installation attached.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Dr4Film-
Where in Scott did you have yours installed? I will be passing through there later this week and may give them a call? Thanks, Brian
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:23 PM   #35
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Billy Thibodeaux's RV Shop. Billy Thibodeaux's Premiere RV, Inc.

They are not the cheapest around but their expert, Corey, knows the fridge installation techniques inside and out.

Did you review the photo documentary I had attached to a previous post?

If you go there, please tell them I sent you. I had it done on April 16th, last year.

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