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Skip426 · 01-27-2017, 02:43 PM

Trying to help a neighbor here in RV park . 2005 coach 1200 series Norcold.
He called for help when GFIC breaker wouldn't re-set , tracked problem to the 120 power supply for the , Norcold control board, disconnected 120 power , some corrosion around cooling unit ( looks like due to a water leak from ice maker supply ) , no yellow powder visible . Left 120v disconnected and started the fridge on LP , 6 hrs later " no co " and alarm ; tried re-set , with off/no and 12volt disconnect and downloaded info on full re-set of control board , and will try tomorrow . Fridge shut down for now ; but with 2 problems the; 120v tripping the GFIC and the " no co" I've already told him the bad ( $$$$) news that it's probably shot, I'm thinking leak into the electric heater cavity that can't be seen.
Just wondering if anyone here, has had these multiple issues, and found that a full replacement wasn't required.

Old-Biscuit · 01-27-2017, 03:30 PM

'no co'
1st on can be reset via ON/OFF
2nd one requires 'hard reset' via ground wire on circuit board

After 2nd 'no co'..........pretty good indication of BAD cooling unit

Test cooling unit
Unplug electric heater element leads (both sets) from lower board
Plug leads DIRECTLY into a working 120V AC outlet----extension cord if outlet in compartment doesn't work

After 4 hours freezer back wall S/B getting cool
After 8 hrs food compartment fins S/B getting cool
After 12 hrs freezer S/B 10*F or less
Overnight food compartment S/B at 32*F or less
(thermometer in glass of water to measure temps)

No Cooling using elements directly wired........cooling unit BAD

Gordon Dewald · 01-27-2017, 03:37 PM

We replaced our fridge as it was only a couple hundred dollars more than replacing the cooling unit.

In hindsight I would have installed a residential fridge instead.

Skip426 · 01-28-2017, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

No Cooling using elements directly wired........cooling unit BAD

Thanks for that hint Old-Biscuit ; I'll pull the elements out before direct wiring them to check for any possible yellow powder leaking into their recesses.
On second though; I always have them.

The corrosion on the cooling unit , from the ice maker water leak, is bad enough , that I'd be afraid to try clean up and repainting it ; for fear of a rupture ; so I'm going to stick with the replace it recommendation.

Gordon , I'd already broached the subject of residential with him; he wasn't open to the idea ; and his coach has the furnace directly below the fridge , so no extra space available, for any added height of the usual residential unit , like the one I installed last year.

Milehghcty · 02-03-2017, 04:13 PM

If your friend goes with another absorption fridge, have him look at the Amish unit that comes out of Shipshewana, IN. Norcold 1200LR Cooling Unit PKG w/2 AC elements, 2 Fans w/fan switch pkg- built by the Amish. - RV Cooling Unit Warehouse The cost for shipment is not too bad (I think it was around $150) or they will change it out for you at their shop for only a few bucks more. I did my own 1200LRIM, and works great. But you will never get the quick and steady cooling that a residential unit would give you. I didn't want to go the residential route as boon-dock too much, but if I have to replace again I'll probably go the residential and then will have the run the generator a lot more to keep the batteries charges. Good luck.