Already have some components, need advice for system.

[Motor7]

Just bought a '04 Bounder. The dealer installed two brand new Trojan T605's the day I picked it up. I already have a Kyocera KD135GX-LPU panel which has an output between 6 and 7 amps @ 17v.

What I want is to have plenty of solar to re-charge the two Trojans & Trik-L-charge the engine battery. We do not watch tv, nor would we be running A/C(A/C on genny is fine). Just 12v fans, and charging laptops/phones....mostly 12v stuff over night. The Bounder came with a pretty good sized 12v-120v inverter,(specs on that later) but I am not sure I will ever use it(coffee maker maybe?).
My main questions are:

-Is 135 watts enough to maintain the Trojans, or should I add a panel?
-which charge controller will I need
-other than panel clamps, wiring and plugs, is there anything else needed?

Oh, and I will not be tilting the panel(s).....flat mounted only.

[Old Scout]

...all depends on how much you are drawing out during the day or thru the night. In battery and solar panel terms: 135 watts of solar and two batteries isn't much for charging during the day or for over night storage/use. Having said that--don't know what a Trojan 605 battery is 6v vs 12v and amp/hr capacity......?
PS-wont make much coffee with only 2 batteries......will need a small coffee pot...

[Motor7]

The Trojans are 6v batterys.....It says 210 AH @ 20 hr & 175 AH @ 5 Hr:



And here is the Kyocera:

[drdarrin]

In my opinion, you have sufficient panels to charge your existing batteries, in 4-5 hours of full sun. I would also suggest a percolator for your coffee instead of an electric one. You don't have sufficient usable battery capacity for a coffee maker.

You need a charge controller, not an MPPT model, and of course, disconnects, a sub panel possibly and a battery box that will allow those batteries to vent outside. You don't want hydrogen gas in your rig.

[Motor7]

Dr, you have me confused, the Trojans are the house batteries, all wired in under the steps, so they are already in a vented box.

Disconnects make sense...between the panel(there is only one-135w) and the batteries. What does a sub panel do?

The Morningstar SunSaver 10 Charge Controller 12V 10A should work for my one panel system:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...linkId=G3ZS2NU

If I go with a Sunsaver20 instead of a 10, I can later add another 135 or 140 watt panel and it can handle that load....

Just thinking out loud here. Reading a ton on this on-line so I order the right parts.

[drdarrin]

Sub panel possibly, would only be necessary if you have specific AC outlets you want to run off of an inverter connected to your batteries.

[Motor7]

Ahh, ok and no it would not be necessary...thanks!

[drdarrin]

You can use one disconnect to isolate the panels from the controller and the controller from the batteries if you want and have room.

GE Energy Industrial Solutions TF60RCP Pullout Disconnect, 60-Amp

[Motor7]

I have a couple of questions. None of the charge controller are set up for 6v batteries, so I am assuming I have to wire it up as a 12v, which means I can't monitor each individual 6v cell?

Let's assume I am parking in the sun and plugging into a 30 amp- svc, does the Solar charge controller automatically shut down and let the built in Coach converter/inverter take over charging operations?

Charge controler, I went with the Renogy Voyager - 20A PWM since it has a remote battery temp sensor. we travel from TN to MB quite a bit and a 40 degree swing in temps over a few days is entirely possible.

[vsheetz]

The one panel you describe is enough for battery maintenance in storage, but not enough for dry camping. Imho.

Use quality controller such as from Morningstar, imho.

[drdarrin]

Originally Posted by Motor7

I have a couple of questions. None of the charge controller are set up for 6v batteries, so I am assuming I have to wire it up as a 12v, which means I can't monitor each individual 6v cell?

Let's assume I am parking in the sun and plugging into a 30 amp- svc, does the Solar charge controller automatically shut down and let the built in Coach converter/inverter take over charging operations?

Charge controler, I went with the Renogy Voyager - 20A PWM since it has a remote battery temp sensor. we travel from TN to MB quite a bit and a 40 degree swing in temps over a few days is entirely possible.

Yes, you will have to wire the 2, 6V batteries in series to get 12V.
When plugged into shore power, both your solar controller and on board inverter/charger will charge the batteries.

[Motor7]

Originally Posted by vsheetz

The one panel you describe is enough for battery maintenance in storage, but not enough for dry camping. Imho.

Use quality controller such as from Morningstar, imho.

Ok thanks. I am going to wire for an additional panel so I can add it when things settle down. I will install the 135w panel, along with all the other stuff that is enroute now(SumoSprings, Bilsteins & everything the Serp belt touches).

[okmunky]

Do you have a way to monitor your batteries? I consider my Trimetrics 2030-A to be an essential part of my solar system.

TriMetric Model Descriptions - Bogart Engineering

[Motor7]

ok, no not yet so I will look at your Trimetrics.