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harryn · 11-24-2018, 08:17 PM

Tesla modules are 24 volt.

IMHO, you really don't want to attempt to break them down further than the module level if you can help it.

Nwcid · 11-24-2018, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harryn

Tesla modules are 24 volt.

IMHO, you really don't want to attempt to break them down further than the module level if you can help it.

I am not sure what you are referring to.

To be used in an RV a step down DC-DC convert would be needed to run the DC components correctly.

Nwcid · 12-02-2018, 06:27 PM

Looking around at prices and what I want to be able to run, I think AGM is still my best option.

The only items I want to run of the inverter are ones that plug into outlets. TV's laptops, phone chargers, CPAP at night, microwave for less then 5 min at a time, Keurig, ect.

I am starting with a 450 ah bank of AGM batteries and if in a couple of months I find that it not enough I can add a second 450ah bank. No matter how I do the math, going Lithium is 3x the cost. If we were full timing or I wanted to try and run an AC while on a 15amp shoreline I could justify the cost.

I believe my biggest struggle right now is deciding on an inverter vs an inverter charger and which one.

I like the idea of the Magnum MSH 3012 and its power share feature, but again, do I really need that for my planned use? I was still going to use it since it has a 60 amp pass though. I thought I could just wire it into one side of my 50 amp service, but the install manual still calls for a sub-panel. So does this unit offer any features that would be useful in my situation?

My RV has a 90 amp, Progressive Dynamic converter with the "Charge Wizard" which has a 4 stage charger in it.

Since it appears that my RV has a good converter in it, should I just get an inverter or should I still be looking at an inverter charger? The inverter/charger I am looking at is the Xantrex 2055 which is a 2000 watt inverter with a 55 amp charger. The PD converter uses a 6ga wire and and has a long run from the converter to the batteries. The inverter would be ~5' from the batteries using heavy gauge wire. Will the 55amp actually be more efficient than the 90amp?

Any thoughts or opinions?

**CountryFit** · 12-02-2018, 07:31 PM

If you are just looking for an inverter, not a combo, samlex has a 3000w with pure sine wave.
https://www.amazon.com/Samlex-Americ...76033021&psc=1

Ivylog · 12-03-2018, 05:38 AM

When building a system for my residential installation I only needed a 1000W inverter but I wanted more charging amps than what that size inverter/charger would have. Installed a separate 100A charger...less generator run time.

Nwcid · 12-03-2018, 02:47 PM

The charge portion is typically only going to be used while plugged in.

My previous unit was a 1000 watt with 20 amp charging. I moved it from one trailer where it meet the need, to a different one where it did not meet the need. I need at least 1500 watts, which is why I am looking at 2000 and 3000 watt units.

Oldelevatorman · 12-03-2018, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nwcid

The charge portion is typically only going to be used while plugged in.

My previous unit was a 1000 watt with 20 amp charging. I moved it from one trailer where it meet the need, to a different one where it did not meet the need. I need at least 1500 watts, which is why I am looking at 2000 and 3000 watt units.

Look at the GoPower 2000 inverter. It is also a converter, a charger, has 50-amp pass thru and a transfer switch. On YouTube look at ‘Martins On The Move’ and ‘RV with the Tanners’ and their solar setups. Well worth your time!

Searching_Ut · 12-03-2018, 07:02 PM

If you aren't going to use an inverter with a power boost function to use in conjunction with a generator to run AC or something then I'd keep things simple.

My fifth wheel came with a PD 9280 DC converter, which isn't great, but serves it's purpose so I simply slapped 10 X 100 watt solar panels on the roof, parallel wired to allow maximum flexibility with shaded campsites. I went with 4 flooded GC-6 batteries for 430ah capacity. I installed a 2000 watt pure sine inverter through an auto transfer switch to power the whole trailer, only automatically switch off the DC converter and have to manually manage shutting off hot water fridge and AC units. Being as how our campsites either have power, or don't, manually ensuring those are on propane hasn't ever been an issue.

Keeping it simple also keeps cost way down, under $2,500 with brackets, wiring, switches, Controllers, battery monitor etc. Best of all simplicity.

Nwcid · 12-03-2018, 08:49 PM

I have been kicking it around a lot. I have decided to just bite the bullet and get the MSH 3012. It has the large charger (125 amps), 3000 watt inverter and will power share if we need it too. I found one for $1580 shipped.

It looks like if I do it right, I can wire it into one leg of my 50 amp service and use the OEM panel.

I will be getting all of the wiring, adapters, and accessories over the next couple of months and work on installing everything this spring went it warms back up.

**CountryFit** · 12-03-2018, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nwcid

... I have decided to just bite the bullet and get the MSH 3012. ...
It looks like if I do it right, I can wire it into one leg of my 50 amp service and use the OEM panel.
...

You've made a right choice. You should if you think it a little farther down the road

For the install, one leg of 50a isn't an optimal setup actually. A better way is two-in and two-out. Why?

The inverter 3012 does accept single 50a input, 50 x 120 = 6000w.

But two-in is ( 30 + 30 ) x 120 = 7200w.

Obviously two-in/two-out is better than one-in/two-out.

To do that, you would need to pass two 30a (AWG 10) hot wires from main panel to inverter. This is my modified panel layout -

When you do two-in/two-out, hot 1 will use 10a (120v) to charge batteries at 120a (12v nominal), the rest about 17a (120v) goes to interior outlets; hot 2 will just a 30a (120v) pass-through.

But if you feel this is a little overwhelmed, you may consider doing it in the future when have nothing to kill time on.

Here is two-in/two out layout:

Nwcid · 12-04-2018, 02:31 PM

I realize that I can do 2 in/2 out, but I am not seeing what advantage that would give me in my system.

The only things I would want to run on the inverter are GFI, Receptacle and Microwave and now that I have a big enough unit, power share for 1 AC. The convert will be shut off, so that will create a balanced load on panel.

With what I proposing to do it looks like I can use the OEM box, splitting the neutral bar, so I do not have to install a true sub panel. I will review full details before the install.

**CountryFit** · 12-04-2018, 08:18 PM

You need a subpanel or a set of breakers but that doesn't have to be near the main panel.

Nwcid · 12-04-2018, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CountryFit

You need a subpanel or a set of breakers but that doesn't have to be near the main panel.

If I am going to power all of the circuits one side why do I need a separate box?

I will have to review the information more, but I found a couple of examples of people doing this. The caveat is that you have to separate one of the bars inside the OEM box. I believe it was the neutral bar.

**CountryFit** · 12-05-2018, 10:25 AM

Usually there is a subpanel on the output that defines the circuits that will be fed from the inverter and it contains breakers to protect the inverter. What that does is it keeps the inverter output AC downstream from the main panel.

In the event you backfeed the main panel you could then send inverter AC back toward the main AC powerlines (think on shore power) in case out of phase that could be catastrophic. You also would be sending inverter output AC back towards the input side of inverter through the main AC panel which is also a problem.

If documents, factory techs, trade pros and most other people tell you to do something, there must be a good reason.

As for separating neutral bars, nope I have never heard of it. In RV electric, all neutral wires (white) are tied together.

On a separate note - if your RV does not have an inverter yet, ie, you are building a brand new inverter/solar system, you may use dual-in/dual-out in 50a; that will really boost your downstream capacity.