Community Forums

Abnmarine · 01-04-2016, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BatteryPro

This is a dangerous installation and may be a fire hazard. You need branch circuit protection for the charge controller branch. The inverter fuse is OK but you must have a branch circuit fuse at the battery feeding the wire to the terminal post.

Larry

Larry

Correct. Someone also mentioned this when I mounted this and I have since installed a inline fuse between the controller and the terminal post on the positive run. I need to take a finished picture.

twinboat · 01-04-2016, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abnmarine

Correct. Someone also mentioned this when I mounted this and I have since installed a inline fuse between the controller and the terminal post on the positive run. I need to take a finished picture.

I mentioned it and also suggested that the main fuse should be as close to the battery as possible.

tednruthy · 01-09-2016, 06:43 PM

SORRY but I have to ask for the logic of this very strong statement. I do not agree. WHY run a long run of wire past the inverter to the batteries???? On my installation it was much closer to tie the solar charger output to the inverter. The wire from the batteries to the inverter was adequate size. So I tied the solar output to the inverter. If the inverter is using the 12V from the solar charger it get is direct. If the solar is producing more than the inverter is using the excess feeds the batteries through the existing wire from the inverter to the battery. Again, explain your strong statement that the solar controller must be attached directly to thew batteries PLEASE. Of course I do have a fuse in the line between the solar controller output and the inverter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CountryFit

the solar system should connect to battery bank only, never go to the inverter directly.

vsheetz · 01-09-2016, 07:30 PM

The input to the inverter is electrically the same point as going to the battery. So I would consider to connect solar there. However I would consider to do it with circuit breaker protection / disconnects so as all components are / can be protected / disconnected. In other words, a couple connection lugs near the inverter, with disconnects / breakers going every direction from there. Also ensure wire sizing is appropriate as the run to the battery will be carrying both solar and inverter currents.

**CountryFit** · 01-09-2016, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tednruthy

SORRY but I have to ask for the logic of this very strong statement. I do not agree. WHY run a long run of wire past the inverter to the batteries???? On my installation it was much closer to tie the solar charger output to the inverter. The wire from the batteries to the inverter was adequate size. So I tied the solar output to the inverter. If the inverter is using the 12V from the solar charger it get is direct. If the solar is producing more than the inverter is using the excess feeds the batteries through the existing wire from the inverter to the battery. Again, explain your strong statement that the solar controller must be attached directly to thew batteries PLEASE. Of course I do have a fuse in the line between the solar controller output and the inverter.

i could be wrong, but this is my understanding -

1) the characteristics of the current from battery and from solar controller won't be the same. when a battery is put into between the controller and the inverter, essentially the battery works like a capacitor, filtering/stabilizing the voltage/current flowing into the inverter. When you connect the inverter to the controller directly, you remove (or partially remove) this function.

2) quality inverter is a piece of expensive electronic device. the engineers designed it with a mind that it inverts from a stable source (battery) in nominal 12vdc to 120vac in rv application. is the current from the controller equally stable, especially in bulk mode? doubtful. some high-end inverters are very sensitive to the input, it may even quit when senses too high of the voltage coming in. will the inverter be able to take only the portion it needs and pass the remaining to the battery? never heard of yet.

3) as vince mentioned, the cable sizing plays a role. the op is using 0/2 already. what size is he going to run from the inverter to the battery which will be carrying both solar and inverter currents?

i might miss something, i'd like to learn...

BatteryPro · 01-10-2016, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tednruthy

SORRY but I have to ask for the logic of this very strong statement. I do not agree. WHY run a long run of wire past the inverter to the batteries???? On my installation it was much closer to tie the solar charger output to the inverter. The wire from the batteries to the inverter was adequate size. So I tied the solar output to the inverter. If the inverter is using the 12V from the solar charger it get is direct. If the solar is producing more than the inverter is using the excess feeds the batteries through the existing wire from the inverter to the battery. Again, explain your strong statement that the solar controller must be attached directly to thew batteries PLEASE. Of course I do have a fuse in the line between the solar controller output and the inverter.

Hi,

One problem is that some PV charge controllers will spike high voltage on the battery terminals if while operating they loose the battery connection. If the inverter fuse opens, this high voltage is now presented at the inverter DC input. We have replaced some damaged inverters where this has happened. No inverter warranty applies in this case.

Larry

Wild Bill Ed · 02-04-2016, 01:36 AM

You had one post that referred you to "Handy Bob's Solar" it is the best advice here. It is not that these fellas do not know, but you don't know and Bob's site will key you into all you need to know, so you understand what you need to know. Then you will be able to sort out what these fellas are trying to tell you. There is a raft of information for the beginner in terms you can understand. There is information on products that work and many do not work completely and some are overly complicated. After reading Bob's info and he is a retired electrical engineer you will understand wire sizing as related to voltage, amperage and distance. You will be able to build yourself a solid and reliable system that 1. works and 2. one that is not going to cost you both arms. I will tell you that there are a lot of solar parts and installs being installed that do not produce what they are advertised to produce. If you see some one with solar and they are running the genset, then the solar does not work!! Follow this advise and you will smile all the way to the bank. Good luck tell him I sent you, you will both have a good laugh!