Go Back   iRV2 Forums > RV SYSTEMS AND TECHNOLOGIES FORUMS > Going Green
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-21-2012, 04:17 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
mgscott4's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO./Pollock, LA.
Posts: 1,555
I stand corrected. The OP should measure the specific gravity of the battery using a hydrometer.


To use this Chart.

Take the reading with your eyes level with the surface of the drawn up liquid, and then subtract 0.004 for each 5C above or add 0.004 for each 5C below 25C. Do this for each of the cells of the battery.


State of Charge Specific Gravity

100% charged 1.265
75% charged 1.239
50% charged 1.200
25% charged 1.170
Fully discharged 1.110

I 'll bet it matches pretty close the volt charge chart previously posted. Just my 2 cents worth.

Bottom line--- Don't take the battery below 12 volts (with no load on it.)
__________________

__________________
06 Hurricane 34FT WH W20 Chassis 8.1L 132K, Steersafe, Koni Shocks, DIY Trac Bar, Tri-Metric 2025RV Battery Monitor, 4-6V Batteries, Scan Gauge 2, Crossfires, 735W Solar Morningstar MPPT-60, WG T4 In-Motion Sat, XM Radio, 07 Chevy Malibu Maxx Toad, Falcon 2, Brake Buddy, Escapee
mgscott4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-22-2012, 07:53 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Wanderman's Avatar
 
Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 127
I think the OP was looking toward researching and designing a Solar Charging system for his needs. It's always a good idea to do this. After all, the 7 "P" rule will apply.

"Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Productions"

I spent almost a year figuring out my loads and charging needs. It is really important to balance (or exceed) your needs to be happy with your Solar install.

I wrote a 6(!) part article on just this type of thing. You can read it at:

WanderMan: A Better Solar Charging Mouse Trap.PART 1

It's helped quite a few people and points out the pitfalls and mistakes (believe me, I made them all!) that make this type of thing more difficult than it should be.

Rich "The Wanderman"
__________________

__________________
1991 Aero Cruiser 23RBa Class A
Almost 100% Self Sufficient!
http://www.thewanderman.com
Wanderman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2012, 11:01 AM   #17
RVM 18
 
okmunky's Avatar


 
Solo Rvers Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Fulltimer, SD resident
Posts: 8,353
I have a 276 watt solar array and 2 six volt golf cart batteries. I have been off-grid for 18 mostly sunny days last Spring and had the batteries fully recharged by noon. We even ran the furnace at night.

To me solar was so worth the investment. It allows me to park in national forests and on BLM land. I enjoy the peace and quiet, especially at night. And what I save on campground fees quickly repaid the cost of the solar set-up.
__________________
Barb (RVM18), Sena (capuchin monkey, RVM Head Mascot) & Lily (Maltese/Yorkie)
2011 Shasta Cynara 230F, 2012 Smart Car toad, 472 watt solar, FMCA #F466348
The Journey is Our Destination. Full-timing since 5/18/2011 - no end in sight
okmunky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2012, 02:38 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 575
To the OP, as suggested if you have incandescant bulbs replace them with LED. I replaced 4 incandescant and added one extra LED and still save about 4 amps.
Also your refrigerator probably needs 12v for controls even when on propane.

I have an older MH also and added 1 Harbor Freight solar panel set (45W) and it almost kept my batteries charged. I added a second set and now I can run the led lights, small tv, the furnace at night, and my batteries get charged up during the day. I have spent 10 days boondocking and did not have to use the generator.
If you find a coupon for Harbor Freight these solar kits are $150 and come with enough parts to set it up on the ground easily. Has 3 15W panels, frame, wires, controller, and the controller has 6v,5v usb,9v, and 12v outlets, and 2 12v flourescant lights.
I will admit that these are not large providers of electricity but it is everything a new user needs to get started. Some of us just don't need to spent thousands of dollars on solar to cover our needs.
__________________

leadman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
newbie, solar



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.