Parasitic draw avoidance tips?

[Smitty77]

I asked the Country Coach Owner Group, what they were seeing on parasitic draws. Then realized due to modifications, my coach is no longer really OEM in regards to parasitic at idle draws.

We're seeing overnight draws of about 62-65AH. On shore power, with the Magnum MS2812 Charger turned off. We start the night with 100% SOC due to 1200W of Solar via MidNite Classic 150. Figure we're without solar charging for 12-13 hours a night. So about a 5AH per hour parasitic draw 'at idle'.

04 Country Coach Allure, normal LP and CO detector, 12V green lighted light switches, have the TST tire monitor and antenna repeater wired in hot, HWW brain is off (dog gets nervous during the night, when it kicks onto adjust level), normal feeds to the radio, and ECM's of the Cummins and Allison (pretty sure a steady small draw), feed to our WiFi Ranger and the older Ubiquity Bullet M2 type antenna amp. Salesman switch on, but best of my knowledge all other 12V draws are off. Suppose both the Magnum and MidNite monitors are also drawing some power to.

Fridge is residential Samsung, so no 12V in that loop.

So, my questions:
-Does about 5AH hour parasitic draw 'at idle' seem high, low or about right? Considering the different components I have in the mix.
-Any other obvious 12V feeds in the list above that I've missed?
-Tips on how to trace down and reduce the parasitic draws?

We have 800AH bank of X's 4 L16, so have ample power. But while basically plugged in and 'doing nothing while at 12V power demand idle', we end up at 92-93%SOC overnight. And of course that is higher when boon docking, dropping down to the 70-80% SOC overnight after a few hours of TV and running the Samsung too. So I think we're doing pretty good overall, with no real conservation. But would like to fully understand the parasitic draws, and reduce them.

Best to all, and TIA on any input. Travel safe, have fun,
Smitty

[tmw188]

I visited the coach today with 25* temps and snow on the ground. I wanted to check the battery voltage on the panel and they are both (house and chassis) down to 12v I'm not sure if running the generator for maybe a half hr. would be long enough to really do any real good. I May just take the coach out for a walk down the highway some evening this week for a little exercise and top off the propane while out.


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[CountryFit]

Originally Posted by Smitty77

We're seeing overnight draws of about 62-65AH.

smitty, your number appears to be too high, to my eyes. i am using a zantrex battery monitor, it tells me everything about the battery status, capacity used and how many hours left, etc. at a normal day before go to bed, i turn off my inverter and any other devices attached. a few times i looked at the monitor to see how much power i was using at the moment, i saw 0.1a, that can be translated into 2ah consumption .

a propane fridge, co/smoke detector, and a tpms signal booster are pretty much what i know on the load. as for ecu's, no, once the ignition key is off, they are off.

i couldn't comment more as your coach is newer than mine, maybe more gadgets on it. hopefully you will be able to pin down the cause(s).

[twinboat]

Seems high to me too.

I have a TriMetric monitor and see 1.3 amps at night with the Xantrex PS2000 inverter always on, a TriStar MPPT 60 controller and a LED anchor light. ( Boat right now )

I have a single bank system so there may be a slight draw from the engine alternator.

Just curious, why are you listing the parasitic loads from the chassis system ? Are you running a single battery bank ?

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by tmw188

I visited the coach today with 25* temps and snow on the ground. I wanted to check the battery voltage on the panel and they are both (house and chassis) down to 12v I'm not sure if running the generator for maybe a half hr. would be long enough to really do any real good. I May just take the coach out for a walk down the highway some evening this week for a little exercise and top off the propane while out.


iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

At 12 volts, your batteries are at 50%

Storing batteries at that level is determental to their life.

If I was you, I would run the generator while driving the MH for a few hours to try and get a good charge in them.

Get the batteries to 100%, 12.6 resting voltage and unhook them.

[shiggs68]

You did leave out the 12vdc needed by the water heater control and the air conditioner/furnace thermostat control board.

In my opinion, your 5AH drain is probably not far off. You could remove your fuses one at a time to eliminate the various items.


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TravellingRVDoctor, LLC

[tmw188]

Originally Posted by twinboat

At 12 volts, your batteries are at 50%

Storing batteries at that level is determental to their life.

If I was you, I would run the generator while driving the MH for a few hours to try and get a good charge in them.

Get the batteries to 100%, 12.6 resting voltage and unhook them.

Thanks twinboat that is my plan. I guess I should install a battery switch at some point. Not a fan of the knife switch for the chassis ground I've seen recommended here, I feel the get loose over time may create too much resistance.


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[Smitty77]

Thanks gang. And tmw188, yes to getting out and exercising your coach, running the generator at the same time. Get it up to 100% SOC soon or you could lose them.

Twinboat - Yep, my bad, merging chassis and house draws at the same time.

CountryFit - On CC Yahoo User group, I saw some very low parasitic values shared by a few 2000 coach owners. And yeah, I'm sure newer coaches and especially the Magna/Affinity lines have ore items in the mix.

shiggs68 - Thermostat is off, and we have HydroHot and the electric/diesel option were turned off. But, I did just go look at the control board, and yes it is indicating the brain still has 12V going to it, so had missed that one. We also have a thermostat for the floor heat, that is on even when we are not on Shore Power, so suspect it is on the 12V house bank too.

I've pulled out my receipt folder(s) (Can't believe it is now three of those 3" thick brown folders now!). We've added Winegard Razr Power Antenna, and yep, it is on with a light reflected, so drawing power. We also have Onstar, which seems to be off of the house batteries too. Going to check the receipts and see if anything else jumps off at me as a energy consumer too.

Will also check the BMK-Meter 'current draw' at different times during the night. As I believe I recall usually seeing about 3AH when I look. (Get up enough during the nigh anyways!).

Best to you all,
Smitty

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by tmw188

Thanks twinboat that is my plan. I guess I should install a battery switch at some point. Not a fan of the knife switch for the chassis ground I've seen recommended here, I feel the get loose over time may create too much resistance.


iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

Get a marine type switch. The knife switches don't impress me.

[mel s]

Originally Posted by Smitty77

I asked the Country Coach Owner Group, what they were seeing on parasitic draws. Then realized due to modifications, my coach is no longer really OEM in regards to parasitic at idle draws.

We're seeing overnight draws of about 62-65AH. On shore power, with the Magnum MS2812 Charger turned off. We start the night with 100% SOC due to 1200W of Solar via MidNite Classic 150. Figure we're without solar charging for 12-13 hours a night. So about a 5AH per hour parasitic draw 'at idle'.

04 Country Coach Allure, normal LP and CO detector, 12V green lighted light switches, have the TST tire monitor and antenna repeater wired in hot, HWW brain is off (dog gets nervous during the night, when it kicks onto adjust level), normal feeds to the radio, and ECM's of the Cummins and Allison (pretty sure a steady small draw), feed to our WiFi Ranger and the older Ubiquity Bullet M2 type antenna amp. Salesman switch on, but best of my knowledge all other 12V draws are off. Suppose both the Magnum and MidNite monitors are also drawing some power to.

Fridge is residential Samsung, so no 12V in that loop.

So, my questions:
-Does about 5AH hour parasitic draw 'at idle' seem high, low or about right? Considering the different components I have in the mix.
-Any other obvious 12V feeds in the list above that I've missed?
-Tips on how to trace down and reduce the parasitic draws?
We have 800AH bank of X's 4 L16, so have ample power. But while basically plugged in and 'doing nothing while at 12V power demand idle', we end up at 92-93%SOC overnight. And of course that is higher when boon docking, dropping down to the 70-80% SOC overnight after a few hours of TV and running the Samsung too. So I think we're doing pretty good overall, with no real conservation. But would like to fully understand the parasitic draws, and reduce them.
Best to all, and TIA on any input. Travel safe, have fun,
Smitty

Smitty77
I always turn EVERYTHING OFF, that's not NEEDED, (aka: NOT being used)...either "with it's own switch" or "with a switch I've added"...(or by "unplugging" it).
I have NEVER had a "parasitic draw" problem.
Mel
'96 Safari. 146k miles

[mel s]

Originally Posted by Smitty77

I asked the Country Coach Owner Group, what they were seeing on parasitic draws. Then realized due to modifications, my coach is no longer really OEM in regards to parasitic at idle draws.
We're seeing overnight draws of about 62-65AH. On shore power, with the Magnum MS2812 Charger turned off. We start the night with 100% SOC due to 1200W of Solar via MidNite Classic 150. Figure we're without solar charging for 12-13 hours a night. So about a 5AH per hour parasitic draw 'at idle'.
04 Country Coach Allure, normal LP and CO detector, 12V green lighted light switches, have the TST tire monitor and antenna repeater wired in hot, HWW brain is off (dog gets nervous during the night, when it kicks onto adjust level), normal feeds to the radio, and ECM's of the Cummins and Allison (pretty sure a steady small draw), feed to our WiFi Ranger and the older Ubiquity Bullet M2 type antenna amp. Salesman switch on, but best of my knowledge all other 12V draws are off. Suppose both the Magnum and MidNite monitors are also drawing some power to.
Fridge is residential Samsung, so no 12V in that loop.
So, my questions:
-Does about 5AH hour parasitic draw 'at idle' seem high, low or about right? Considering the different components I have in the mix.
-Any other obvious 12V feeds in the list above that I've missed?
-Tips on how to trace down and reduce the parasitic draws?
We have 800AH bank of X's 4 L16, so have ample power. But while basically plugged in and 'doing nothing while at 12V power demand idle', we end up at 92-93%SOC overnight. And of course that is higher when boon docking, dropping down to the 70-80% SOC overnight after a few hours of TV and running the Samsung too. So I think we're doing pretty good overall, with no real conservation. But would like to fully understand the parasitic draws, and reduce them.
Best to all, and TIA on any input. Travel safe, have fun,
Smitty

Smitty77
I simply TURN EVERYTHING OFF THAT IS NOT NEEDED, (aka: NOT being used)...either with it's own switch... or with a switch I've added...(or by "unplugging" it).

I have NEVER had a "parasitic draw" problem.

Mel
'96 Safari. 146k miles

[nothermark]

Originally Posted by tmw188

Thanks twinboat that is my plan. I guess I should install a battery switch at some point. Not a fan of the knife switch for the chassis ground I've seen recommended here, I feel the get loose over time may create too much resistance.


iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

Bad grounds are a major source of problems. Some folks get it and some don't. I put disconnects in the positive lead. YMMV.

[dpinvidic]

Smitty, just saw this thread, and had a comment.
Actually "Parasitic" is the drain on the battery when nothing is turned on.
But even a CO2 detector is actually on, so we should not call it parasitic.

The real question becomes "What is my minimum current requirements with minimum equipment turned on?"
That is going to be different for everyone. On my coach which has a Marine battery disconnect switch. I was still seeing a little over 1 amp current draw. Turns out the Magnum inverter, and the AGS is connected DIRECTLY to the batteries.

Harbor Freight sells a small amp meter that plugs into a fuse socket.
30 amp meter

You can use this on individual items to see their draw. OR, using jumpers, you can put it in series with your main battery lead and measure current as you disconnect different things.

Sounds like your not interested is a total disconnect switch for storage, but just minimizing your overnight battery use.

Good luck, this can be an endless chase...

Regards,

Dan

[nkgunner]

I am following with much interest due to a similar problem. Full charge and 24 hrs later, 81% of full with salesman switch off..12.1 V at panel

George
2995 Country Coach Allure