Start with the 158 pound battery. That means your usable energy reserve is about 1800 watt hours (12 watt hours per pound). The 2 or 3 day battery reserve means that your energy use will need to be well under 1 kWh/day. That isn't easy, especially when you start talking about occasional microwave use, RV furnace, media center, or lotsa-lights.
By the rule of thumb of a watt of solar per pound of battery, you have plenty of solar to cover that battery.
The daily energy harvest from a 230 watt panel should be at least 460 watt hours in most conditions so that is getting close to the reserve capability estimate, too.
You'll still need a weekly bulk charging capability of 4 watts per pound of battery, which could be a 600 watt inverter (50 amps at 12v). This is a battery maintenance thing for best battery service.
A 1500 watt inverter should handle most AC needs and the 2500 watt surge should handle most startup conditions typical of the more power hungry appliances. The 125 amp input current will need careful attention to wiring and the connection to the AC circuits will need some sort of switching arrangement.
The 2000E is a good charge controller with a long history so it should work well.
The big item missing is something for battery maintenance. When the rig is not in use, you need to have something on the batteries that will assure a full charge and also apply a sulfation inhibiting technique. This is where a lot of solar systems suffer. Float or trickle charging just doesn't cut it anymore IMHO.
more on the 'rules of thumb' at
1 to 10 kWh battery systems – rules of thumb.
The wiring and connections can play an important part. I don't think you need to go quite to the 'Handy Bob' level but proper wire size design, lengths, and connections can make a difference. The inverter also needs input wire impedance considerations, too.