Waste veggie oil conversion

[Dr4Film]

The only conversion I had inquired about was the one from Ojai, CA. That conversion would allow the diesel engine to burn the WVO only AFTER the engine was started and warmed with the normal diesel fuel.

It required the addition of another fuel tank to hold the WVO, a delivery system for the WVO and a switch or valve by the driver's seat to change over from diesel to WVO. Obviously, it's more technical than that but you get the idea.

I did the math, along with the additional work needed to use the WVO system and, for me, it would take many years to make it worth the investment and time.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

[AZgl1500]

There are different methods used to strip out the fatty animal acids from the oil. Some involve some very hazardous liquid acids making the process somewhat dangerous.

I chose the least obtrusive method of all, special white colored beads that looked like moth balls. This process requires that you only obtain the cleanest of vegetable oil and that you pre-strain it down to the 10 micron level to get rid of trash.

here is one link that pertains to the injection pump used on the Dodge/Cummins Generation 2 engines. ie, VP-44 pump. It is written by one of the "Gods of Injection Pumps".... Chip Fisher, owner of Blue Chip Diesel Performance
Frybrid Vegetable Oil Fuel Systems -- VP44 Injection Pump and its Weaknesses


The beads I used I bought for $500 for a 5 gallon bucket. I still have them, never got around to using them. Anyone want to go the bead cleaning route?

one supplier of the beads
Thermax T-45 BD MP Biodiesel Dry Wash Ion Exchange Resin - Utah Biodiesel Supply

a forum thread on the subject
Acusorb beads filters - Forums

a biodiesel tutorial
ION Exchange Resins

another link on the beads
Bio Diesel Filter @ Survival Unlimited.com - Bio-Diesel Supplies and much more!

if you start searching, and change up your search terms a bit, you will find more reading that you have time for.

[sjkted]

The two best "kits" on the market are Greasecar and Frybrid. They cost around $1000 - $1500, although one could make a kit for about half the price. With a small truck or a car, you would need a second tank, but for a motorhome you could just add a small 5-15 gallon tank as the primary to run diesel and use the regular tank for WVO.

For filtering, there are two options: heat and settle or buy a centrifuge. The centrifuge is generally accepted as the best method, although both work. On-board filtration with the centrifuge is the best method. Many people have tried to do this, but come up with problems as power is needed for the centrifuge. This would be very easy to do with a motorhome as you could run the centrifuge off the generator and run all of the oil through it and then into the tank. I've heard of people filtering 75 gallons in less than an hour with this method and it is immediately ready to use.

On mine, I have a barrel and a barrel heater that hugs around the outside of the drum. The heater gets plugged in overnight and heats the oil. The oil gets separated from the water and the oil is then sucked into a custom-built three stage filtration system from 100 micron to 30 micron down to 2 micron.

It can be messy, but it gets easier as you learn it. I have a friend who has put 40K miles on his F150 and another who has put around 50K on a Mercedes 300D. Obviously, you get better results with a lower fuel economy vehicle that is run long distances like a motorhome.

--sjkted

[bookman52]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDubs I found another place in utah that does the conversions if anyone is interested. Here's the link: Welcome to Golden Fuel Systems! - PRODUCTS: Chevy/GMC Vehicle Computer Modules Justin

Golden fuel is located in Springfield MO, they do setup shops to sell their products and do their installation, so I am wondering if the place in Utah is a dealer. A couple of years ago I did some extensive research into doing a conversion of a diesel/veggie conversion and found this company to be heads and tails above anyone out there. They know their stuff. My research was for a car, so I am not sure where they are with regards to the MH marketplace. However now that I am a MH owner and plan to move to Diesel in a couple of years, I am going to check.

[RVhauler]

Sjkted has given a pretty good over all scope of processing WVO. There seems to be a cutoff point of around 2003/4 for Ford/chevy diesels being able to use WVO or waste motor oil due to a fed mandated sensor that checks clarity of fuel (supposed to be to prevent using untaxed dyed fuel I guess). Suggest going to the forum www.dieselstop.com. Many users on the forum of both WVO/WMO stating their ups/downs and various sytems used in the processing. Tempature cause a lot of grief with fuel gelling if not mixed correctly

[bookman52]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjkted The two best "kits" on the market are Greasecar and Frybrid. They cost around $1000 - $1500, although one could make a kit for about half the price. With a small truck or a car, you would need a second tank, but for a motorhome you could just add a small 5-15 gallon tank as the primary to run diesel and use the regular tank for WVO. For filtering, there are two options: heat and settle or buy a centrifuge. The centrifuge is generally accepted as the best method, although both work. On-board filtration with the centrifuge is the best method. Many people have tried to do this, but come up with problems as power is needed for the centrifuge. This would be very easy to do with a motorhome as you could run the centrifuge off the generator and run all of the oil through it and then into the tank. I've heard of people filtering 75 gallons in less than an hour with this method and it is immediately ready to use. On mine, I have a barrel and a barrel heater that hugs around the outside of the drum. The heater gets plugged in overnight and heats the oil. The oil gets separated from the water and the oil is then sucked into a custom-built three stage filtration system from 100 micron to 30 micron down to 2 micron. It can be messy, but it gets easier as you learn it. I have a friend who has put 40K miles on his F150 and another who has put around 50K on a Mercedes 300D. Obviously, you get better results with a lower fuel economy vehicle that is run long distances like a motorhome. --sjkted

From what I can see the Frybird system looks good I'm a more

[bookman52]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjkted The two best "kits" on the market are Greasecar and Frybrid. They cost around $1000 - $1500, although one could make a kit for about half the price. With a small truck or a car, you would need a second tank, but for a motorhome you could just add a small 5-15 gallon tank as the primary to run diesel and use the regular tank for WVO. For filtering, there are two options: heat and settle or buy a centrifuge. The centrifuge is generally accepted as the best method, although both work. On-board filtration with the centrifuge is the best method. Many people have tried to do this, but come up with problems as power is needed for the centrifuge. This would be very easy to do with a motorhome as you could run the centrifuge off the generator and run all of the oil through it and then into the tank. I've heard of people filtering 75 gallons in less than an hour with this method and it is immediately ready to use. On mine, I have a barrel and a barrel heater that hugs around the outside of the drum. The heater gets plugged in overnight and heats the oil. The oil gets separated from the water and the oil is then sucked into a custom-built three stage filtration system from 100 micron to 30 micron down to 2 micron. It can be messy, but it gets easier as you learn it. I have a friend who has put 40K miles on his F150 and another who has put around 50K on a Mercedes 300D. Obviously, you get better results with a lower fuel economy vehicle that is run long distances like a motorhome. --sjkted

Sorry, bumped the send key. As I was saying the Greasecar system looks a bit cruder. I think the system from Golden Fuel System is more comparable to Frybird. I know they have been around for about 12 years and have a great deal of experience. Take a look at their FAQ page, they talk at length about many of the myths about VO systems and conversion issues with various vehicles http://www.goldenfuelsystems.com/res...s.php#mechanic