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Old 11-09-2004, 08:51 AM   #15
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Just a safety note;
Seems that when I take the caps off the batteries to check the water level, a few tiny drops of acid will splatter as the tops come loose. This amount or splatter is always more if I happen to be wearing a good shirt or new blue jeans After a couple of washing the damage shows on the clothes. Main thing is be sure and wear safety glasses when doing battery maintenace! It only takes a tiny amount of acid in your eye to cause big damage. CLothes can be replaced, eyes cant.
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Old 02-02-2005, 07:47 PM   #16
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We just experienced exactly the same thing today. The odor started bothering me. I checked all sewer connections since I had drained tanks today. Finally opened battery compartment and first 12V Trojan of 3 was gurgling. That was the odor. Battery needed water the other day. A few people in the park figure it had a short and the charger kept trying to charge it. The temperature was 130 deg for that battery and the other two were in the 90s (using Radio Shack infrared digital thermometer). We disconnected the problem battery (other two may be as well, don't know yet) and disconnected the charger cable. We are running on the remaining two right now so that the fridge will operate. We will monitor overnight and reconnect the two to the charger in the morning and see what voltage is flowing.

Anyone have any idea what the warranty is on Trojans - I can't find it on their site or in my Winnie material. The battery posts are marked - Positive K 13 and Negative L 3 I assume Winnie one year warranty will start from my date of purchase last may.

When you add water how much have people had to add at any one time?

Thanks

Don


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Matt Cassels:
RV Wizard, you may just have saved my hide.
I was having a problem with the gas detector alarming, only happened when the coach was closed up at night with the Fantastic fan running and a bedroom window slightly open.
I checked all the propane fittings and connections with a hand held gas detector and found no leaks. Convinced that the detector must be faulty I disconnected the monitor, dumb move from I guy who has been RVing for 30+ years and should know better. i just happened to be reading some of the older posts on the forum and came across this one by RV Wizard, I realized that I had just had to top off the water in my batteries recently and they took an awful lot of water. I took my trusty gas detector around to the battery compartment and before I got the compartment door open it was alarming. I aired the compartment out before disconnecting the two 45 amp convertors and turning the battery disconnect off, didn't need a spark right then. I'll make along story short, the batteries had some bad cells, the convertor/charger was working just as it should by continuing to try and charge them. The battery compartment is sealed off from the rest of the coach, however where the cables went through the compartment the seal was not air tight and when the Fantastic fan was pulling air out and causing a negative air pressure the gas from the boiling batteries was pulled into the coach. Needless to say I have 2 new batteries and the gas monitor is re-connected.
So again I thank you RV Wizard for your post which may just have saved me from a disaster. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 02-03-2005, 05:19 PM   #17
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Don, if you go to Trojan's web site, they have a section called "customer care" - they say they want your experience with them to be "trouble free".

Worth a try - I think the battery warranty is 2 years.

http://www.trojan-battery.com/rv.asp
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Old 02-03-2005, 06:32 PM   #18
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Gentlemen about your batteries. Check the water levels often. Since we're now living full-time in our coach I have to check the levels every 2 weeks and yes they do run low. I don't see all the cells running low but some do.

I have a gallon of distilled water, and just purchased a turkey baster to add water with. Sometimes the turkey baster is more trouble than it's worth but it was only a buck and a half so I'll try it again. I do like to use a paper cup and I crease a spout in it and it seems to work well enough.

I just treated my self to a BatteryMINDerTM that I picked up today at Camping World. I have now experienced that not having one is a definite no-no. We were camping at Fort Wilderness for about 2 weeks and when I went to start the engine. I experienced a slight hesitation in the battery power BUT the engine kicked over right away.

I am concerned about this so I though that using a float charger would be a great idea. You all know that many posts were developed here in support of the BatteryMINDer and now out of necessity I have one working its magic below decks charging my engine battery.

According to the instructions in the documentation, if the green light does not begin blinking after 72 hours of continuous charging, the batteries will need to be de-sulfated. This is easily accomplished by pressing a small button on the case of the charger. I hope to be able to maintain a full charge on the battery, and resolve any problems with the battery with the conditioner circuitry.

I plugged in an extension cord into the side of my MH and ran the cord under the coach to the battery compartment. I left all the electronics in the battery compartment and I'm using alligator clips on the side of the engine battery. A more permanent solution is also included in the kit and that is a ring terminal harness that can be mounted to the side terminals permanently to the engine battery.

I hope that this little magic box performs as advertised and I have no doubt that it will because of all the members that have used this gizmo all have reported positive results. Everyone knows that iRV2 members always have the best gizmos and I'm pleased to have the BM on board taking care of my engine battery.

Thank you to all those members that preceded me in posting about the BatteryMINDer.

For more info see the website by clicking on the graphic.


Model 12112
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Old 02-04-2005, 04:08 PM   #19
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I've been in touch with Winnebago (very helpful) and they also suggested it might well be a short in one battery. They suggested I have Trojan check. I called Trojan and will be taking all three batteries to their Fla distributor to be checked. If one or more have a flaw they will be replaced under warranty.

Also read the Trojan web site the other night (didn't get to bed until after 2pm as I read that site and just about every other one on the web related to batteries).

Driver, please keep us informed on your experience with the BatteryMinder. My automotive batteries are down to 12.2 and this solution sounds like the best to me.

My Dimensions inverter, converter and charger seems really great the way it conditions, charges and floats. Every five cycles it raises voltage to 15 to equalize. Only thing that puzzles me is that there is a wire that runs to the House bank of batteries to monitor temperature. I would have thought the high temperature would have shut down the charger. It might be that it can only really check the temperature of the first battery that it is connected to - it was the third (outer one) that boiled. Anyone know?

I'm going to try and make sure I don't have to experience this again. Driver, I paid $2.49 to a battery filler at Advanced Autoparts/Zone or whatever their name is. It made filling easy but the inner battery is still tough to check so I'm going to design my own dipsticks that will clearly show the level above the plates.
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Old 02-04-2005, 06:52 PM   #20
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by dleslie125:
Driver, please keep us informed on your experience with the BatteryMinder. My automotive batteries are down to 12.2 and this solution sounds like the best to me.. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Don, Before I installed the BatteryMINDer I observed the engine battery voltage. It read 12.1 V. After having the unit in place for more than 72 hours, my battery voltage is now 12.9 V. It looks like it's workin'!

I have it on a de-sulphating cycle right now, perhaps that'll make it even better.
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Old 02-05-2005, 03:28 AM   #21
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Be careful when de-sulphating (equalizing) that you do not have any of your 12 volt electronics on, as they do not like the 15 volts put out to the battery bank.
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Old 02-05-2005, 04:59 AM   #22
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RV Wizard:
Be careful when de-sulphating (equalizing) <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Mike, Point taken. Electronics are secured on the automotive side.

Thankx!
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Old 02-05-2005, 09:58 PM   #23
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.....clean your battery terminals!.....change to commercial truck batteries asap with bolt on terminals....geof kaye
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Old 02-13-2005, 05:27 AM   #24
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I bought a VECTOR 2-6-10 Smart Automatic Battery Charger yesterday. $39.99 at Walmart.

I connected it to the coach Trojan that boiled over. The Vector has fault indicators that are to indicate "

1. internal shorted cell battery (replace battery)

3a. internal open cell (replace battery)

3b. sulfated condition (recondition or replace)

What surprised me is that I did not get any of these fault indications. The battery started charging at 10.4 amps and over a day worked down to full charge and then float (2 amps).

When I disconnected the charger it read 13.7. About 10 minutes later voltage was 13.4 and a half hour later (now) it is down to 13V. Clearly the battery is shot (have an appt with Trojan dealer on Tuesday to have all 3 examined).

Now, I want to next hook up the Charger to the automotive batteries (2 of them) and the instructions say if the batteries are in the vehicle and the ground is off the negative (is it in this case?) then the positive from the charger should be connected to the positive post of the battery and the negative should be connected to heavry gauge metal of the frame or engine block.

Well, now I'm in territory that I don't understand. The coach batteries are grounded and the cables coming into the battery compartment for the vehicle batteries could choke a horse. Coach battery connects aren't as bad.

So, where the devil should I be connecting the negative. Is there a danger if it is connected to something that is connected to other grounds.

I could use some help on this one soon.

Thanks

Don
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Old 02-13-2005, 03:32 PM   #25
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Hi Don,
The instruction to connect the negative to the chassis is so that risk of explosion (hydrogen gas) due to sparking in minimized. If you can reach, connect the negative lead to the coach frame or some other location that is NOT inside of your battery compartment. If you have a standard set of jumper cables with you, you can use one of them as an extension to the negative cable of the charger.
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Old 02-16-2005, 07:00 PM   #26
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Canuck - rest of story at

Battery charger
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