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Old 06-27-2011, 11:55 PM   #43
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Well I now know the dealer hoodwinked me on the counter tops, ours are not SOLID SURFACE but in fact low grade composit painted. They look great but are not durable at all. If you have these seal around your sinks and keep a good car wax on them, I am using Meguiars and it seems to work good.
"Solid Surface" is something like Corian and is a solid chunk. We have them in our DSDP and the sinks are the same material and bonded with no joints. No way would solid surface warp or have water damage. It's also pretty expensive.
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:01 AM   #44
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This brings up the fact that many of us have in that the dealer is 200 miles round trip from my home and it would be impractical and expensive to have taken it back multiple times even if they had been competent.
Here in WA state the law is that if taking it in for warranty work is over 100 miles one way the manufacturer MUST pay the transportation cost.
I had to take ours in Spartan and Newmar. Newmar paid for the fuel both ways, plus motel cost while in Nappanee when I couldn't stay in the MH.
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:26 AM   #45
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The trick, it would seem is in vigilance combined with a good dealer. We spent some time with both the service manager and the warranty service writer explaining that we would keep at it until everything was right if they would do the same. And that's exactly what they have done. We also met the tech that has done most of the work on the unit and he showed us a few important things (like the slide stop). So far Thor has not fussed a bit about paying for everything, which kind of surprises me:
- Re-seating the drain on both sinks.
- Re-routing the hot water lines where kinked.
- Re-routing the kitchen sink drain where kinked.
- Fixing the island latch.
- Replacing the motor in the levelers
- Replacing one coach battery & one chassis battery.
- Re-sealing the windshield due to a leak.
- Removing and re-sealing both front windows.
- Removing and properly installing the kitchen window.
- Finding the water tank drain valve
- Adjusting both seat mounts
- Reworking the door deadbolt to work properly
- Cleaning and lubing all basement locks
- Re-caulking the slide moulding
- Adjusting the slide stops
- Replacing a few latches here and there
- Replacing an improperly wired trailer connector
- Replacing missing bolts on a few of the body panels

They also installed a clear bra and a Sanicon. So far, nothing that the dealer did has required re-work. Well, one window leak, but we were all guessing as to the cause the first time around.

Here's the part that Thor doesn't seem to get: It would have been a LOT cheaper for them to just do all this stuff at the factory. Instead, they are paying the dealer to do all this and I know what their shop rate is.
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:43 AM   #46
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I need to make a couple of things clear, yes many of my problems originated at the factory, but the ones that I have to go to CA for originated at the dealer. When we first looked at the coach it had a cracked windshield (how is unclear). The dealer wanting to avoid an insurance claim replaced it themselves and made a terrible mess inside and out (It is glued in and has dirt small rocks and cuts in the rubber molding as well as black glue everywhere) so Thor has agreed to reset it. The second thing is that the dealer cut an 8" X in the roof to add a sat dish for someone and left it open to the weather when the deal fell out and did not tell us. I had it patched but it now has a bubble and they are going to take care of that also. Many of the problems as I said before could and should have been caught by the dealer and were not. They pulled some other stunts too that I won't go into here. Also it is more like an 8 hour trip to the dealer in CA, still a trip I would rather not make.
As to the Corian, we have it in our home so I know what it looks like but when the salesman told us it was solid surface we assumed it was some kind of durable composition that was similar to corian, not painted pressed board, and I am talking just painted pressed board here! ! Like the leather in our new truck that in fact turns out to be a durable pleather. They take a lot of latitude with their sales claims.
So again I want to say the design of the Serrano is wonderful in our opinion and the chassis as well. I know we are going to be happy in it when all is said and done. Just be absolutely sure you check out your dealer and find a way to hold them to taking care of you after the sale. Read and check out all the posts on this and other sites and when you examine the coach look for those problems and get them resolved before you take delivery.
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:14 PM   #47
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COSerrano, tel me about the slide stop problem and adj. also how did you determine you had the battery failures? Is your Front end cap distorted (bowed down) in a couple of places on top of the cab? I don't think it hurts anything but mine is.
Thanks,
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:51 PM   #48
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COSerrano,

Can you tell me what you did to the seat mounts? A few weeks ago we took delivery of a 2012 Serrano 31V and I can't remember the seats sitting as high as the one we test drove. I would be able to use all the features of the chair if the base would be about 2" lower. Now everything is just sitting at it's lowest setting.

As far as the rest goes, except for a few minor items, we love our new Serrano. We just completed a 2500ml trip with it and averaged 11.54mpg while pulling a Saturn Astra.

The design is incredible except for one item, the bathroom/bedroom door setup. I would like to challenge the designers to try enter the bathroom while the bedroom sliding door is closed...it can't be done. I am sure other 31V owners know what I am talking about.
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:02 PM   #49
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We just completed a 2500ml trip with it and averaged 11.54 mpg while pulling a Saturn Astra..
That's pretty cool!
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Old 06-29-2011, 10:47 AM   #50
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radar224, unless you travel with strangers you need to take those clumsy sliding doors off. This allows one to more easily get around the bed, eliminates the banging as well as the problem you mentioned. A bit of over design, the bathroom door latches open to block the view to the front and makes the bathroom into a much larger space when open and also allows access to the wardrobe. Our sliders are under the bed at home where they belong! The chair problem I had was that they were so tight they would not swivel and you have to remove them and adj.. As far as lowering them that would not be an easy fix.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:37 AM   #51
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I can pretty much say 'ditto' to the last post. The passenger seat was way too tight. I broke a cotter pin trying to move and said, "That's it". I removed the main nut, lubed a few sliding pieces, and re-installed with the nut backed off 1/4 turn and a bigger cotter pin. Problem solved. The driver's seat was a little crooked and rocked right/left. Did the same routine, tightening up the nuts that hold all the electric seat junk together. I think I also added a washer on the left side frame rail to better level the seat. As to height, we found the coolest little footstool with a rocker base and Relax the Back. A little pricey, but fits PERFECTLY in the wheel well on the passenger side. Wife uses it as a foot stool, I use rock it to use more like a foot rest. It moves into the living area when the seats are turned around. In fact, I'm thinking about buying a second one for the living area.

On bathroom door, it took us a few trips to get the hang of it, but skip the bedroom door - it doesn't do anything useful. Just use the bathroom door in the open position. There's a little grommet way up by the pantry just for this purpose. Works great when you have to get up in the middle of the night (age). Of course, it doesn't keep me from tripping over the dog...
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:50 AM   #52
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Forgot to respond to Bob. Sorry, Bob. There is a small metal block on the underside of each slide. That block stops the slide from moving too far into the body. When you bring the slide in, you can hear by the change in the sound of the hydraulic motor. It turns out that those block are adjustable! We found out when I looked at one slide and could see that the bottom trim was pulling away from the slide because the slide was pulled in too far. The mechanic showed us the blocks and said to keep an eye on them and adjust them if the slide goes in too far or not enough. I think they use allen keys, but won't swear to that.

As to the batteries, that was easy! I was constantly getting the low voltage light on the jacks. The mechanic went to test the chassis batteries and they were two different brands! Same thing on the coach batteries. That's an absolute no-no in dual battery systems, so the warranty rep called Thor and reamed them out and made them replace the batteries. Problem solved.

I since found out, by the way, that the charging circuits do not kick until two minutes after the engine is started. So before turning on the leveling pad, start the engine and use those two minutes to walk around the coach, making sure everything is clear for the jacks and slides before starting the leveler sequence. Zero problems since I started doing that.

As to the cap, nope, our seems pretty straight.

Niel
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Old 06-30-2011, 03:00 PM   #53
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Thanks Neil, I will check those things out, the slides seem to be working fine but it's good to know how to adj. them and I will have to look at the batts.. They were very corroded when I got it and I did not notice any brand mismatch when I cleaned them up. I ordered a set of Koni FDS shocks for the front end but don't know when or if I will get them as Koni says they are trying to verify if the standard workhorse ones will work on the diesel chassis. If & when I get them on I will post the results. The wife has the same complaint on the passenger chair and uses a big stuffed animal under her feet.

Bob
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:30 AM   #54
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Interesting note on the shocks. Actually, the ride is one of the things we liked about this chassis. Almost sporty for a 30 foot box. I believe it comes with Bilsteins. For us, the ride is great, but then we were coming from a Sprinter chassis that rode like - well -a Fed Ex truck!
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Old 07-02-2011, 04:33 PM   #55
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We like the handling just fine as well but the expansion joint and pavement crack harshness is a little distracting to us. It seems everyone claims the FSD shocks will substantially reduce this. I ordered the koni's from the factory a week ago but checked yesterday and they said they were waiting for confirmation from the factory on the correct PN., apparently the standard W series shocks may not work on the W20D chassis or they have not updated their catalog. Since we are escaping the heat after the fourth I had to cancel the order. Will try again when we get a chance.
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Old 07-14-2011, 04:23 PM   #56
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Well we have been out for two weeks now and the Serrano is behaving fantastic. A very comfortable unit to drive and live in. In fact we intend to do just that, as we have found the perfect spot in the White Mountains of AZ to park for the hot months. The shocks were not a problem at all on this trip but there were no expansion joints and mosty very good roads. The Salt River Canyon was a piece of cake. We were loaded to the max, every compartment full including a 14ft inflatable boat, elect. motor and battery, full tank of fuel, 2/3 tank of water & full LP tank and still 2070 lbs under weight on the cat scale. Funny thing the total CCC is 2661 lbs. so that does not compute. Anyway this makes up for some of the initial problems we had.
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