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Old 10-16-2016, 01:38 PM   #43
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I'd be pretty surprised if it was sitting at full ride height more than a day or 2 at the most. That would be pretty unusual. Just a few hours is more typical - if you don't dump it when parking.

Ours is a 4 jack manual HWH system. After dumping, we lower the front first, just until they touch, then do the same in the rear. From there, we level as required. There's lights indicating the low end/side on the panel. Pretty simple. Yours could have a totally different system in it - depending on how it was ordered or set up by the dealer.

We do have a small bubble level we keep an eye on when parking and leveling. A lot of times moving back and forth just a couple feet can make a difference. To install the bubble level, the coach was leveled first (using a carpenter's level on the floor), then a small (2" maybe?) bubble level was mounted on the transmission console and centered. From there, it does a nice job giving you an idea of where you are at with a quick glance. Incredibly useful simple mod.

Oh, and you're most welcome. Happy to help out where I can. -Al
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Old 10-16-2016, 09:14 PM   #44
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Thanks again - every time I go by there it is in the same spot all aired up and ready to go - weird
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:50 AM   #45
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thanks for that info. So if someone without insurance causes damage to the RV my insurance wouldn't cover my damage?
If you purchase collision coverage, the damage from the uninsured person is picked up by the collision coverage, subject to any deductible.

Where Uninsured Property damage comes into play...... Let's say you have an older vehicle and are OK with risking your own driving, and therefore do not purchase collision coverage for that vehicle. Your vehicle is parked and an uninsured person runs into it. They are responsible fro the damage but have no insurance. You chose to not buy collision coverage because you are willing to accept responsibility for your own mistakes, however this wasn't you mistake. This is where the Uninsured Property Damage would step in and make you whole for the damage done by the other person.

Hope this help to explain the difference.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:55 AM   #46
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If you purchase collision coverage, the damage from the uninsured person is picked up by the collision coverage, subject to any deductible.

Where Uninsured Property damage comes into play...... Let's say you have an older vehicle and are OK with risking your own driving, and therefore do not purchase collision coverage for that vehicle. Your vehicle is parked and an uninsured person runs into it. They are responsible fro the damage but have no insurance. You chose to not buy collision coverage because you are willing to accept responsibility for your own mistakes, however this wasn't you mistake. This is where the Uninsured Property Damage would step in and make you whole for the damage done by the other person.

Hope this help to explain the difference.
Thank you - that makes sense now. My coverage does have collision and it seems cheap enough at 700 year. Would probably keep that even after getting rid of the lien
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:29 PM   #47
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Talked with sales guy again today. Supposed to have the rig through their chassis and house inspection today. Did I say I don't trust salesmen yet?

Said according to transwest when they go through it they fix whatever they find wrong! Why do I find that unbelievable? Then said if the tires are less than five years old then they won't be changed.

Finally told him I have inspectors coming out for chassis and house inspections and he got a little squirrelly on me.

May not be getting this one if the inspections reveal issues - hate sales process.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:35 PM   #48
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If your salesman thinks so little of your intelligence, that he thinks you should be willing to accept an "in house" inspection without question, I'd already be heading for the car. I absolutely hate dealing with smug salespeople - or sales people at all for that matter. They almost always believe they have a right to waste your time.... like you will never notice that's exactly what they are doing. It's just a game to him... and you need to turn that around!

Ask for the list of certifications the guy(s) doing the chassis inspection has. I'd almost be willing to bet they have nobody qualified for even a brake inspection. RV repair only certifications DO NOT qualify a facility, or a tech, as certified to do chassis work, ANY of it.

Insist on DOT dates for each tire. Better yet, have whoever is looking at them fasten a piece of tape or put a chalk mark next to each one so you can easily confirm as many as you like.... I'm betting whoever is assigned the task will have to google "DOT date) to even know what you're talking about.

If they insist on a deposit, make it the absolute minimum, and put it on a card so you'll have no trouble getting it back when/if the deal goes sour. Make any final deal/purchase agreement contingent on a passed arms length/independent inspection done by certified pro's of YOUR choice!

I think you can probably plan on a coach this age failing on a good inspection. AC's won't work or something. That opens your deal to further negotiations - with you in the driver's seat - asking why this coach failed your inspections, when you had their word they would "fix" anything they found during theirs (if they did one).

If they won't agree to an independent inspection, I would not hesitate to walk on the deal. In all likelihood, they're covering something up.

Best of luck! -Al
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:05 PM   #49
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Thanks Al,

Completely agree. Once I catch a lie I usually bail (big lies).

I know the chassis tech's are going to have the certifications. This is a freight liner repair facility and a Newmar shop. If you heard about that facility recently in Denver that had the 3 rigs stolen - this is the place.

Inhavent actually caught a lie on him yet but not getting a good vibe. Wife wants to have the inspections done. Told the guy I have a state accident inspector (this guy does all the root cause investigations in the area for fatal crashes) coming out to do a DOT inspection and pre-purchase inspection. I also have another company coming out for the house side.

Told them to take the weekend and live up to their verbal promises to do their inspections and fix things. ANYTHING major shows up on my guys inspection and we are out of there.

Inspection is set for Tuesday next week - I'll let you know how it turns out. I do have high hopes given the reputation of the shop.
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:24 PM   #50
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My bad. I do remember you mentioning this was a truck dealer. I would hope they do have a few pretty capable guys around. That's makes them pretty much totally different than 99.9% of RV dealers.

Best of luck! -Al
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:14 PM   #51
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My bad. I do remember you mentioning this was a truck dealer. I would hope they do have a few pretty capable guys around. That's makes them pretty much totally different than 99.9% of RV dealers.

Best of luck! -Al
No your sentiment was right on. I have confidence their chassis guys are going to be solid, but probably not so much on the house side. In the end, they are a dealership out to get as much money as they can and go about that in the same way as every other dealer. I am only hoping this one lives up to verbal promises that tires are new, and tha s being a truck facilupity they have a mandate to fix whatever they find wrong during their inspection and that the house side will make sure everything works at time of sale.

Hold to their word and I will buy the rig seems simple to me
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:46 AM   #52
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Will you be there when the house section is being inspected by your guy? If not, have him/her take a picture of anything he finds out of line. This extra documentation can prove pretty valuable when it comes to proving there is/was an issue, and many times help judge the severity of the problem to help provide an idea of the cost to repair it.

In addition to making sure everything works (including cab heater/AC), be especially mindful of loose/partially hanging interior ceiling liner, wrinkled or loose paneling under windows, and loose/bulging exterior skin. Any of that is likely associated with water intrusion issues, which can be difficult or impossible to repair economically on a coach this age. If found, often it's the kiss of death, as it will generally spread rapidly, even if you luck out and find the source of the water intrusion. Once that plywood starts to rot, there's no stopping it.
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Old 10-21-2016, 07:50 PM   #53
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Will you be there when the house section is being inspected by your guy? If not, have him/her take a picture of anything he finds out of line. This extra documentation can prove pretty valuable when it comes to proving there is/was an issue, and many times help judge the severity of the problem to help provide an idea of the cost to repair it.

In addition to making sure everything works (including cab heater/AC), be especially mindful of loose/partially hanging interior ceiling liner, wrinkled or loose paneling under windows, and loose/bulging exterior skin. Any of that is likely associated with water intrusion issues, which can be difficult or impossible to repair economically on a coach this age. If found, often it's the kiss of death, as it will generally spread rapidly, even if you luck out and find the source of the water intrusion. Once that plywood starts to rot, there's no stopping it.
-Al
Thanks Al - I am having a hard time finding a house inspector in the area worth their salt. Chassis guy is the right choice I think. I may end up doing it myself with my picky wife. I did check all the ceiling, cabinet, closet floors, and walls and found no issues with stains or "loose panels etc..."

I do like that this is an aluminum - mostly - rig and rivets etc... All look good. My house inspector I was working with won't get on the roof to inspect so I said bye bye to them.

Be nice if there was a kind IRV2 soul in the area that had some free time on their hands on Tuesday to help me with some basics of running a diesel rig. Hint hint to anyone
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Old 10-21-2016, 08:42 PM   #54
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Jim, if you don't find somebody, the house part, if you have some RV experience (doesn't need to have been in anything fancy), isn't that hard to do yourself. There are a few checklists that will simplify things for you. The harder part will be figuring out switch locations and how everything works.

Worst case, you may have to take a couple of swings at it. Do what you can the first time, and take copious notes and pictures if necessary, regarding anything that stumps you. Make sure you note make and model info as well!

Most of it should be relatively easy. Things like the house heater/AC controls might be a bit more challenging (ours, with it's different zones and modes, is not the most intuitive for sure!). Focus on the big stuff first. Turn the refer on when you get there. It should be easy to feel it starting to cool down shortly if you put your hand in the freezer.

Roof isn't that big a deal. A truck dealer will very likely have a step ladder tall enough to make your climb up onto the roof easier. Make them drag it out there for you. The seams are very visible and you're just looking for sealants that have split or are lifting like loose paint on a wood house. Already mentioned is that shower skylight. The most important thing there, other than to check the sealants that seal it to the roof, is to check for evidence of water in the interior liner (indicating a cracked/leaking cover).

Fogged windows, especially the ones between you and the outside rear view mirrors, would be something else to look for. If present, it doesn't go away on it's own and can make visibility to the rear really bad, especially when conditions are just right. The windows will need to be removed, then disassembled and glass refurbished or replaced. The service varies, but can range from 250-600 per window (or thereabouts)

In the end, if everything has gone well, you may have to make a call based on how the rest of the inspection went.
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Old 10-21-2016, 08:59 PM   #55
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Thanks again Al - I inspected a 99 American eagle when I was looking a couple of months back with an inspection checklist I bought on line. I will use that again if I do it on my own. It waved me off on a couple of things (slide going in uneven, leaks after running motor for 20 minutes or so, genny just quit then restarted it while running the AC, windows were in good shape but blinds were a mess) - I really liked that rig too but too many problems for me and my limited knowledge and about 25k more than I am paying for this one if I get it.

At this price I could afford for it to blow up and as long as I live through it would chock it up to bad luck as long as I try my best to make sure it is a good rig that is about all I can do.

I have a pretty good gut, and so far I think this will turn out well - but I am willing to walk away too if needed
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Old 10-22-2016, 09:49 AM   #56
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Understand the logic perfectly. Ours cost less than what some people loose in depreciation the first year - and it's still serving our needs with no signs of distress appearing.

"At this price I could afford for it to blow up and as long as I live through it would chock it up to bad luck as long as I try my best to make sure it is a good rig that is about all I can do."

Bottom line, if you can find a decent Endeavor (or the sister ship Diplomat) and buy it just reasonably, you're likely good to go with few surprises. -Al
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