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Old 01-24-2012, 08:02 AM   #1
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Location: Langley B.C. Canada
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12 volt electrical failure

We have lost all 12 volt electrical power in our 2008 Bounder. 50 amp smart energy panel is dead, and power drained off from overnight. We are parked in a resort in Indio CA and would appreciate any hekp. Just got the manuals out, and will start there!!!

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Old 01-24-2012, 08:51 AM   #2
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Trace the path power takes into your breaker panel and into your charger/inverter.
Look for the first fuses, breakers or cutoff switches on that path and with shore power disconnected, break out the multimeter. On the resistance (ohm) scale look for open circuits (infinite resistance) or shorted (closed = 0 resistance) circuits where they shouldn't be.


J.J. Hayden (KN4SH)
Covington, GA
2005 National Dolphin 5342
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:14 AM   #3
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First thing I tried was to unplug the power coverter, remove the two output cables, then put a meter on them. 13 plus volts so that should be fine. Of course, the fridge is going to defrost soon.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:51 AM   #4
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I would suspect either dead house batteries or house battery dissconnect maulunction.

Fred and Bonnie
2005 Dolphin LX 6375
Abby, Ruffles & Scarlett, "The Cats"
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:13 PM   #5
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Charged up house batteries and all is running from there; opened switch to isolate batteries and nothing works; id there is a relay or fuse, I don't know where it would be. Reconnect switch and all is fine; I will have to keep an external charger in place while I figure this. Maybe the converter is not putting out enough current even though it shows 13.6 volts.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:42 PM   #6
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Hi needlenoses,
Consider posting this question in the Bounder Owner's Forum. Go to the iRV2 main page. Scroll about 1/2 way down the page and you'll see the Fleetwood Owner's forum. There is a sub forum for Bounder coaches. I suggest this because the 12 VDC electric system is wired differently by different manufacturers. Nobody knows your coach like somebody who owns one just like yours.
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Old 01-24-2012, 05:22 PM   #7
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My tool of choice for this kind of trouble shot is a test light, I have 3. 2 I bought one I made (i like it best) I will tell you how to make one. If you buy buy a good one, (One of mine is)

I took a license plate lamp socket, takes a common blade type lamp, inserted said lamp. on one of the two leads I put a simple alligator clip. The other lead I soldered and taped on a good 3 feet of wire, and a 2nd clip on the end of that, If I ever get "Fancy" I'll put a probe on the other end.

Starting at the battery since you know it's good, Touch one clip to each terminal (POSITIVE/Negative) should see the light. GOOD.

Now move the NEGATIVE (note it don't matter which clip is negative, only that you move the negative clip. if you use an old fashion incandescent lamp) to the chassis, Still see the light, GOOD.

Now move out along the positive wire with the other clip. If you need to move the negative clip make sure you still have a good ground by touching the positive clip to the last known good spot. When you no longer see the light.. The bad spot is between light and dark.

Suspect is your isolator solenoid, In my case it turned out to be the control switch Same test light, and a partner, confirmed that and simple repairs were done by me ASAP.

I did need the service manual for my Battery control system though to know where to apply the test lamp.

Home is where I park it!
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