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Old 05-15-2019, 11:22 AM   #1
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30 Amp Gen to 50 Amp Home Port

I had a licensed electrician install a 50 amp female socket in the garage connected to two breakers in the upper right corner of our panel in order to service our RV. We were also planning for a future lock out in case of a future back feed.

Originally we were contemplating using the RV generator for the back feed but we are now planning to buy a Westinghouse iGen 4500 DF inverter generator. It has a 30 amp (3 pole) RV outlet.

We would like to place a 30 amp male at the genny end of a™ 10 foot 10/3 cable and a 50 amp male at the other end. In order to power both banks of the house panel when connected with the back feed, we are planning to bridge the east and west poles of the 50 amp plug w/a very short piece of 10 cable.

The panel will have a lockout only allowing the genny to power the panel only after sliding the device up after opening the main 200 amp breaker.

Any ideas/thoughts/recommendations/experience on bridging the east and west poles on the 50 amp male plug with one (black) of the three wires, while attaching ground (green) to the north pole and neutral (white) to the south pole? Trying to avoid placing male 30s at both cable ends then buying and connecting to a 30 female to 50 male dog bone.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-15-2019, 02:51 PM   #2
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With a male plug on both ends you will be making A "Suicide Cord"

There is no safe way to handle it.

Do it right and to code.

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Old 05-15-2019, 03:12 PM   #3
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It is the widely used and accepted, but not aptly named suicide cord way of back feeding one's home, with the use of an electrician installed port and manual transfer switch (lockout). There cannot be any lawsuit. The question is about feeding both sides of the panel on the existing 50 amp port from a single port 30 amp output from the inverter generator. Can you advise on that? Thank you
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:15 PM   #4
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A 30 amp, 3 pole will NOT SUPPLY 240volt/50 amp in order to activate both sides of your panel box no matter how you split it. 30 amp as known in the rv world is only 120 volts.

You really need a 240 volt generator AND a transfer switch box.
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:22 PM   #5
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No 240 will be used. It will only power the 110 breakers on each leg of the box. Because of that, no 240 is needed. I believe that both sides of the panel would be active on 110 with a max 30 amp load on the chosen circuits.
Right now, my port is supplying 110 into two legs into the 50 amp service on my RV. Think of this in reverse but with a lockout switch to activate the breakers going to the port to be fed by the generator.
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:38 PM   #6
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A proper insulation will have a Generator Power Inlet Box. It will have the recessed male connector attached to the building.

The umbilical cord will have a male plug on the generator end and a female connector on the load end.

A male to male cord is not accepted anywhere by code. Let someone get hurt!

Have your Electrician do it the right way.
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:39 PM   #7
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For a calculated total maximum draw of 2,980 watts from both legs of the panel, you don't believe a 4,000 watt continuous output generator would work?
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Old 05-15-2019, 03:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgvtexan View Post
A proper insulation will have a Generator Power Inlet Box. It will have the recessed male connector attached to the building.

The umbilical cord will have a male plug on the generator end and a female connector on the load end.

A male to male cord is not accepted anywhere by code. Let someone get hurt!

Have your Electrician do it the right way.
Most generators have a 4 connector plug for 30 amps. The generator power inlet boxes also have 4 connectors. The Westinghouse has a 30 amp RV 3 connector plug and I have not found any generator umbilical cords that offer a 30 amp male plug on the generator end with a 4 connector female plug for the inlet box end.
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:01 PM   #9
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A 30 amp RV 3 connector was not intended to be standby power for a utility supplied load center. Get the right generator.

The proper connector for 30 amp would be L14-30C

https://www.amazon.com/l14-30-inlet/s?k=l14-30+inlet

If you are going to Jury Rig it, at least don't use male to male.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-Gene...gateway&sr=8-7

I'm done!
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:58 PM   #10
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2X the I’m done.
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Old 05-15-2019, 05:26 PM   #11
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Old 05-15-2019, 05:54 PM   #12
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Next lets consider if the genny has isolated ground to common (3 wire) or if their tied together at the genny.
OP states 30 amp 3 wire on the genny but doesn't state if its isolated or not.
In that case all the GFI's MAY pop associated with a 240volt dual phase house panel connected with both sides of the panel together on same phase. Also if some of the house outlets/appliances/lights were wired with 14/3 or 12/3 to 2 adjacent breakers and share a common return neutral wire then that wire is only rated for one of the breakers and not both if powered from a single phase system.

Glad to hear the OP is using a licensed electrician.
Eating popcorn now and waiting for responses.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gberges View Post
I had a licensed electrician install a 50 amp female socket in the garage connected to two breakers in the upper right corner of our panel in order to service our RV. We were also planning for a future lock out in case of a future back feed.

Originally we were contemplating using the RV generator for the back feed but we are now planning to buy a Westinghouse iGen 4500 DF inverter generator. It has a 30 amp (3 pole) RV outlet.

We would like to place a 30 amp male at the genny end of a™ 10 foot 10/3 cable and a 50 amp male at the other end. In order to power both banks of the house panel when connected with the back feed, we are planning to bridge the east and west poles of the 50 amp plug w/a very short piece of 10 cable.

The panel will have a lockout only allowing the genny to power the panel only after sliding the device up after opening the main 200 amp breaker.

Any ideas/thoughts/recommendations/experience on bridging the east and west poles on the 50 amp male plug with one (black) of the three wires, while attaching ground (green) to the north pole and neutral (white) to the south pole? Trying to avoid placing male 30s at both cable ends then buying and connecting to a 30 female to 50 male dog bone.

Thanks in advance!

If the lockout you have will only allow the generator to power the panel after the main is turned off , then just jumper the 2 poles of the generator breaker on your panel together and then connect a cord to the breaker with a 30 amp plug that fits your generator. Since there is no possible way ( according to your lockout) that the main breaker can be on while the generator breaker is on you should be safe. Then there is the issue of overloading the neutral on split circuits as well as grounding.

The proper way is to install a transfer switch and use the correct 120/240v generator
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Old 05-16-2019, 07:47 AM   #14
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Thank you everyone for your very valuable responses and input.
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