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Old 09-22-2016, 06:47 PM   #15
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This one says it will work even with GFCI breakers....but it is PRICEY !

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Old 09-22-2016, 07:25 PM   #16
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For that much money I can easily adapt to living with 30A.

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Old 09-23-2016, 11:02 AM   #17
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So you have a trailer with 50 amps. I assume you have more than 1 A/C. As discussed a 50 amp rig is 4 pin, 2 legs of 120 volts at 50 amps for a total of 12000 watts. You could run on 30 amps which is 1 leg at 120volts for a total of 3600 watts. By bypassing something in your kitchen that can run on 20/15 amps you do relieve some off the single leg 30 amp at the post. But the question is the largest draw from your rig are your A/Cs that pull roughly 20amps each at start up and then settle at 14 amps. Hot water heater that kicks in after a hot shower which is another 6-10 amps.

just know that while you are helping you will not get the 12000 watts you are used to. You can limit yourself to 1 A/C if you need to run other large appliances (hot water heater, blow dryer, clothes dryer) but keep in mind that even a small coffee pot will still draw about 1100 watts.

Just understand your RV is going on an energy diet.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:38 PM   #18
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Has anyone found a product that plugs into a gfci to defeat that type of an outlet so the 30/20 adaptor can be plugged into that work around product and will work?
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:05 PM   #19
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Not possible to externally defeat a GFI. The extra 20 amp. extension cord is the cheapest and most simple way to access the 20 amp circuit. I carry 25 and 50 foot 12 gauge extension cords with me in the camper, and use them at home when not camping. Win-Win.
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Old 09-28-2016, 05:43 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by awol50 View Post
Has anyone found a product that plugs into a gfci to defeat that type of an outlet so the 30/20 adaptor can be plugged into that work around product and will work?
As far as I know The only way to "work around" a GFCI receptacle is to replace the GFCI receptacle with an ordinary non-GFCI protected receptacle.


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