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Old 08-21-2018, 12:04 PM   #1
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30 amp to single 50 amp power?

I was thinking about converting my coach to 50 amp service and had the following thought: What if I changed my current power cord to a 6/3 gauge wire along with the coach wire leading to the circuit panel and used a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter at the pedastal ? The circuits in the coach would still be protected by the breakers in the coach box.
Any thought on this or has so one done this?
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:07 PM   #2
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What are you trying to accomplish?
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:16 PM   #3
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50A is 2 HOTS
30A is 1 HOT


Unless you change MAIN AC Power Panel to a 50A service panel you will still only have ONE HOT bus regardless of what wiring/cord/adapter you use.
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:30 PM   #4
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1 - is the adapter rated for 50 Amp? You may need to make your own "adapter" but really, just wire your own plug on the 6/3 cord.
2 - Is your box rated for 50 Amps? You may need to upgrade the distribution box, especially if you want to add more circuits as there are not normally any to spare in a standard 30 Amp distribution panel.

For the confused people:

He is not trying to change from standard 110 VAC 30 Amp RV Service to standard 240 VAC 50 Amp RV Service.

He is going for something in between: 110 VAC 50 Amp service.
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfryman View Post
1 - is the adapter rated for 50 Amp? You may need to make your own "adapter" but really, just wire your own plug on the 6/3 cord.

2 - Is your box rated for 50 Amps? You may need to upgrade the distribution box, especially if you want to add more circuits as there are not normally any to spare in a standard 30 Amp distribution panel.



For the confused people:



He is not trying to change from standard 110 VAC 30 Amp RV Service to standard 240 VAC 50 Amp RV Service.



He is going for something in between: 110 VAC 50 Amp service.


It sounds like to me the OP wants to run multiple things 2 acís TVs etc....all he is going to gain unless he swaps out breakers is 20 amps, not really worth it for the cost of that 6/3 cord.
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Old 08-21-2018, 01:21 PM   #6
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Still not totally clear what the OP really wants out of this. Can the Op respond?

Folks who already understand- sorry. 30 Amp service is hot on one leg of the power cord one neutral and one ground (3 wires). So you get 30 Amps x 120 volts or 3600 watts; 50 Amp service is two hot legs, one neutral and one ground (4 wires). You get 2 x 50 amps x 120 volts or 12,000 watts. A very large difference.

If the OP wants to use 3 conductor cable with a 50 amp connections (just omitting one of the two hots) then you have 50 Amp x 120 volts or 6,000 watts. This can be done, but you must ensure that the on-board 120 volt panel is rated for 50 amp and has a 50 amp main breaker. All distribution breakers can be reused. If you use an under rated breaker panel and main breaker you are out of code and running a real risk of fire and no insurance coverage.
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Old 08-21-2018, 03:03 PM   #7
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Yes, just one leg of the 50 amp service (really 100 amp). There are times we have encountered low voltage coming from an rv Park 30 amp service when running both a/c units in the Az summer heat.
We do have 2 a/c units , microwave, etc. No oven of any kind so am considering installing microwave/ convection oven.
Just thinking if this would be feasible while sitting in Hospital waiting room.
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Old 08-21-2018, 04:20 PM   #8
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You would need to wire your own cord with a 50 amp plug that only utilizes one leg, a dogbone adapter is only rated for 30 amps, and change the wiring out from the power cord plug to the breaker box to a size that would accommodate 50 amps. The weakness is the bus bar for the circuit breakers is only rated for 30 amps even if you change the main breaker. I don't see how this could be a completely safe approach without installing a 50 amp breaker box and if you do that you might as well use traditional 50 amp 2 hot leg service and split the loads.
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Old 08-21-2018, 04:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdracr39 View Post
You would need to wire your own cord with a 50 amp plug that only utilizes one leg, a dogbone adapter is only rated for 30 amps, and change the wiring out from the power cord plug to the breaker box to a size that would accommodate 50 amps. The weakness is the bus bar for the circuit breakers is only rated for 30 amps even if you change the main breaker. I don't see how this could be a completely safe approach without installing a 50 amp breaker box and if you do that you might as well use traditional 50 amp 2 hot leg service and split the loads.
I agree with why not change out to standard 50 Amp service, the only difference would be using a 4 conductor #6 cable instead of a 3 conductor. Again make sure you replace the entire onboard breaker box and main breaker.

Leadman- I don't understand how you think you get 100 Amp out this deal. The parks breakers are typically 20/30 or 50 Amp per leg. Very few many have something different. I see 15 Amp some places and have only heard about grat than 50 Amp somewhere.
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:06 PM   #10
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To the OP. If you find low voltage on 30 amp service, you will most likely find that same low voltage on both legs of the 50 amp service. More amps doesn't nessesserly fix low voltage.

For this who don't understand the difference between 30 and 50 amp service.

https://www.rvtechmag.com/electrical/chapter3.php

http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/50amp_Service.htm
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:25 PM   #11
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Your panel in the RV has a 30 Amp Main Breaker. This is the limiting factor in your OEM setup. Even if you up-gauge the shore cable that breaker will still trip above 30 amps.

If your purpose is to be able to run other large loads like the microwave while running your AC, I had the same issue on my Winnebago Vista with 30 Amp service and here is a thread I posted recently where I solved the same problem where I can now draw 45 amps from a pedestal with either a 50 amp outlet, or with 30 amp and 15 or 20 amp outlets on separate breakers. Was a very inexpensive change, cost me under $ 25 in materials plus my time.

30 to 45 Amp Shore Power Upgrade
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:28 PM   #12
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I had a 2007 National Surfside that came from the factory with a standard 30A service. I rewired and installed a second 30 amp panel. Moved one A/C and water heater to the new panel and added a few single circuit outlets in the motorhome for a toaster oven and for electric heat. Installed a 50 amp cord and ended up with basically dual 30 amp service.

I also added an additional transfer switch for the new panel and rewired to the generator (Onan 5500) which automated the process of switching generator power.

When I finished I could run both air's, water heater, toaster oven and anything else without worrying about overloading. If I had to use a standard 30 amp service (like in my drive) I just used a dog bone and had to do power management on my own.

I don't know why folks get hung up on the fact that standard 50 amp service is 240 volts when I've never seen any RV with any 240 volt appliances. There probably are some but the OP isn't trying to install 240 appliances. He just wants to run both air's at the same time I bet.

Probably not a project for the average shade tree electrician but not particularly difficult if you know a bit about wiring and have a good working knowledge of the NEC. Ground/neutral bonding and conductor sizing are the most difficult points to consider. Especially so if you also have an inverter.
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rarebear.nm View Post
Leadman- I don't understand how you think you get 100 Amp out this deal.
Standard 50 amp RV service can supply 100 amps at 120 volts or 50 amps at 240 volts. Additionally, it can supply any combination of 120 volt and 240 volt circuits as long as the current draw on both legs does not exceed 100 amps and no single leg exceeds 50 amps.

That's how Leadman gets 100 amps at 120 volts since almost all RV's have 0 amps of 240 volt load.
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Old 08-21-2018, 06:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadman View Post
Yes, just one leg of the 50 amp service (really 100 amp).
Looks like a couple of posters are quicker typist.

Not 100 amps. 240 VAC 50 amps gives you two legs of 120 VAC 50 amps. If I understand what you are trying to accomplish, is to use one leg of the 240 VAC 50 amp receptacle and plug, giving you 120 VAC 50 amps. You will only increase your available amps by 20 amps. As previous posters have stated, you will not only need to change the box and the main breaker to 50 amp, you had better check every inch of the circuit from the shore power receptacle to the main breaker to make sure the circuit, and any modification to the circuit, can handle 50 amps.

Also as previously stated, why not just upgrade to 50 amp service. There is no alternate way to get 120 VAC 100 amps into an RV unless you use both legs of the 50 amp service. And please don't do as I have read where someone connected two 120 VAC 50 amp legs together thinking they were getting 120 VAC 100 amps. What they got was 240 VAC 50 amps and a lot of ruined wiring and equipment.
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