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Old 07-31-2015, 09:41 PM   #15
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marginal would also mean no harm to the AC by doing this correct?

I suppose I could see if a electrician might be able to install a 30 amp box outside our house although I suspect it would be a bit pricey to do so...that would solve all my problems?
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Old 07-31-2015, 11:17 PM   #16
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marginal would also mean no harm to the AC by doing this correct?

I suppose I could see if a electrician might be able to install a 30 amp box outside our house although I suspect it would be a bit pricey to do so...that would solve all my problems?
If you go this route, make sure he installs a 120 volt, 30 amp RV outlet and NOT a 240 volt, 30 amp outlet. A VERY costly mistake!
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:34 AM   #17
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I have two of them on hand. Wal*mart, Camping world, Most any RV store including many campground stores.. Very common item
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Old 08-01-2015, 09:03 AM   #18
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we have another outlet outside that is not a GFCI but is only a 15 amp....it could possibly run on that for awhile if I am understanding correctly

Why don't you just interchange both outlets one for the other ?
You'll get a regular outlet for your RV that won't trip and a GFCI one for other use.
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:27 AM   #19
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need to connect my 30 amp RV to an electrical outlet outside the house....this outside outlet is a 20 amp....however, I can't seem to find a 30 amp female to 20 amp male adaptor on any RV sales sites...is this not a viable option?
Here is what you are looking for:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...A+%2Caps%2C288

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Old 08-01-2015, 01:25 PM   #20
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It was easier for me to put in a 30 amp breaker & run 3 wires out to my parking spot.

If you are just a tad handy-it is very easy to do.
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Old 08-02-2015, 11:17 AM   #21
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If the GFCI is what is tripping, that is not dependent on the amp rating. It is detecting a ground fault, i.e. the current flwoing out through the hot wire is not coming back through the neutral wire. That's independent of the amps. If the circuit breaker for the outlet is what is tripping, then it's a question of the amp load. A ground fault means the RV is "leaking" electricity into its safety ground somewehere. The fridge or a converter/charger are common places for that to happen, but it could be most anywhere. Including an improperly installed outlet..

Most RV adapters are for a standard residential 15A outlet, simple because that is the most common. A 20A adapter can be made easily enough with standard components. The 20A plug has one blade at a right angle to the other, distinguishing it from the parallel blade 15A plug. The Connecticut Electric adapter in the Tweety's ad may be rated for 20A even though it has parallel blade plug, though, and the typical 20A outlet accepts both 20A only and 15A parallel blade plugs.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:27 PM   #22
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If you have room in your circuit breaker box, put in a 30 amp RV circuit or even a 50 amp RV circuit if you might upgrade someday. Problem solved. No overload. Like Deny said above.


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Old 08-03-2015, 08:36 AM   #23
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Thanks for all the help.....Our fridge in the camper will not run on the GFCI outlet ....it trips this one...but if I plug it into a regular outlet outside (no GFCI) it will run no problem...I can get the camper AC to run on the regular outlet for awhile but eventually it trips that one...possibly because I believe the AC might be 15.8 amps....leaves me with 2 options: replace the GFCI (20 amp outlet) with a regular outlet or install a 30 amp ......thinking the last option would definitely cost a bit for an electrical to do
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Old 08-03-2015, 09:31 AM   #24
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Actually it only takes about 12.5A of continuous load to trip a 15A breaker. The "15A" is a peak load rating and the continuous load rat is 80% (12 amps), so a trip is possible anywhere between 12A & 15A if left on long enough. Probably closer to 12 than 15 on a hot day, since the mechanism is basically thermal.

Your fridge probably has a high resistance short to ground in the 120v heater element. Removing, cleaning and replacing it may fix the problem (check for a strand of wire touching the mounting as well). If not, replace the heater element.
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:57 PM   #25
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CW had them when I was at one of their stores last weekend. Not as common as 30 male to 20 female though.
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:58 PM   #26
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:26 PM   #27
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You can buy it at many Walmarts. But be careful about which systems you turn on. Do NOT try to run the air condition.

I went to Home Depot and for less than $100 I got the parts to wire a 30amp RV plug to the inside of my garage with its own 30a breaker. All systems GO!
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:30 PM   #28
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30 to 20 amp

I did the exact same thing, TDI-Minnie. Of course, since I live in FL I wanted the a/c if I am working inside the trailer. LOL. It works just like it's supposed to.
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