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Old 08-17-2015, 04:20 PM   #57
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A gfci is a safety item to prevent electrocution.If it is tripping it may be annoying but it is doing it's job.So do you fix the problem or remove the safety feature?Back when we had screw in fuses it was easy, just stick a penny in there and let Abe protect us.
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Old 08-19-2015, 08:35 AM   #58
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Got the correct scoop about the GFCI tripping issue for RV's from an electrician yesterday.

Our service panel in the RV is built and installed like a Main service center. The ground and neutral leads are common in the panel. This is the same as in the Main service panel in the stick house. The GFCI being used for RV service sees the ground and neutral tied together and this is a fault condition to it. We know it is OK. Using a ground lifter adapter might be the quickest workaround.

Rick Y
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:11 PM   #59
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A couple comments from an old radio guy...

By code the circuit is limited by the breaker.

However a much smaller wire can carry larger currents and many types of connectors can be installed on said wire.

So at a "system level" and to be "safe" one needs to consider all parts of the circuit and consider smallest capacity as the limiting factor.

Going outside normal for example.

One is to install a 30 amp rv outlet 200 ft from service panel.

Code states number 10 wire.

Number 10 wire carries 30 amps so breaker 30 amps.

But a 200 ft drop requires much bigger conductor so being too lazy to look it up will just use number 6.

Some will rate the breaker by wire size so they may use a 60 amp breaker (guessing here for demonstration) which may be fine for the wire but the outlet is still only 30 amp so it would need a 30 amp breaker at the outlet if the 60 amp was used on the larger wire.

The short of this is many circuits that are existing may be wired in non - standard ways but still be in code as - is but making changes requires one to examine the complete circuit to insure it is properly configured.


Regarding gfi compatibilities the mention of safety ground connected to return in the mh load center certainly will cause it to trip but I believe that would violate code as the mh does NOT contain the meter and that connection occurs only one time and that is at service entry or meter panel.

The safety ground often is called "meter ground"

If this exists the connection should be removed and the grounds isolated from the returns or neutrals.

Other common cause is leaking ice maker heater or cooling unit heater leaking energy.
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Old 08-20-2015, 10:17 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerichorick View Post
Got the correct scoop about the GFCI tripping issue for RV's from an electrician yesterday.

Our service panel in the RV is built and installed like a Main service center. The ground and neutral leads are common in the panel. This is the same as in the Main service panel in the stick house. The GFCI being used for RV service sees the ground and neutral tied together and this is a fault condition to it. We know it is OK. Using a ground lifter adapter might be the quickest workaround.

Rick Y
Everything I've ever read about the AC side of RV life is that the neutral and ground are NOT tied together in the Rv breaker box - that connection is ONLY made at the main panel - not asub-panel, which is what the RV is. If the electrician found the neutral and ground tied together in YOUR rig, then your rig is mis-wired and needs to be fixed.
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Old 08-21-2015, 12:45 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
A couple comments from an old radio guy...

By code the circuit is limited by the breaker.

However a much smaller wire can carry larger currents and many types of connectors can be installed on said wire.

So at a "system level" and to be "safe" one needs to consider all parts of the circuit and consider smallest capacity as the limiting factor.

Going outside normal for example.

One is to install a 30 amp rv outlet 200 ft from service panel.

Code states number 10 wire.

Number 10 wire carries 30 amps so breaker 30 amps.
So if i'm changing an existing 20 amp circuit to 30 amp with only 50' of number 12 wire, if I change breaker and outlet to 30 amp, with the 12 wire be ok for 50'? of do I need to change to number 10?
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Old 08-21-2015, 01:57 PM   #62
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No.

Wire size limits breaker to 20 amps.

The intent of my post is all parts of the circuit matter and the breaker needs to match the smallest part.

30 amp rv plug supplied by 20 amp wire needs 20 amp breaker.
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Old 08-21-2015, 03:07 PM   #63
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Bud01234you misunderstood tq60. A 30 amp circuit requires a #10 wire.The 200 foot is just an example. The shorter run does not mean a smaller wire just that you will have less loss.Comparing to water a 5/8" hose will deliver so much water .If you use a smaller 1/4" hose even if short will deliver less water.The smaller wire will restrict how much electric can flow.Try to pull too much and the wire will heat up.Whatever you are trying to run will also heat up.When the smoke leaks out and you don'tcatch it all the machine stops.
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Old 08-21-2015, 08:07 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Alan_Hepburn View Post
Everything I've ever read about the AC side of RV life is that the neutral and ground are NOT tied together in the Rv breaker box - that connection is ONLY made at the main panel - not asub-panel, which is what the RV is. If the electrician found the neutral and ground tied together in YOUR rig, then your rig is mis-wired and needs to be fixed.
You may be correct here. I will meter my panel tomorrow and, if need be, visually inspect for isolated ground and neutral busses.

Thanks for keeping me true and centered.

Rick Y
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