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Old 11-23-2015, 05:42 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by cb1000rider View Post
Thanks for all the discussion guys. Here's the plan:
  • rock saw the trench
  • pull a length of #8 copper cables ~100 ft, 4 of them
  • encase in 3/4" gray PVC conduit
  • 30A double-pole breaker on the break box
  • Run into a standard 50A RV-style outlet (outdoor, wet use), labelled "30 A limit".


Should run 2 ACs + no problem.

I appreciate the discussion and suggestions.

Sounds like a good plan. Hope there isn't another 5 pages saying your plan sucks because there's nothing wrong with it.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:00 PM   #72
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Do your self a favor and run 1" or 1 1/4" PVC. The cost difference is minor and it will be easier to pull cable through and lots easier if you later change your mind and repull 3 #6s and 1 #8. Remember wire you can repull but you can't change the conduit easily.

If you ever think you might want to run any sort of data or phone lay a 3/4" PVC 6" above the power conduit and just cap the ends. It will be there if you need it.

One last thing, get a roll of that yellow caution tape and lay it in the trench after you've put about 8 or 12" of fill over the conduit then fill the rest of the trench. If someone is digging they'll hit the tape long before they hit the conduit.

Even if you have an electrician do the work you will likely save money if you dig the trench. You can rent a DitchWitch for a day normally for less than $100 or so.

Have fun digging.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:18 PM   #73
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Yep, I'd oversize the conduit as above. Not much more cost and you might be surprised if you have to rewire.
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:50 PM   #74
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Voice of experience here....I plugged my Newmar DP into a 30 amp/220 volt circuit, BECAUSE a decal in the power compartment said "110/220". So I assumed the internal power logic would figure it all out, and magically reduce the voltage. NOT.

That flawed thinking caused me to replace 2 televisions, a Keurig coffee maker, one roof top air conditioner motherboard, the circuit board in the microwave, an X-Box game controller, and a hand full of smaller items.

Just Sayin'
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:53 PM   #75
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Voice of experience here....I plugged my Newmar DP into a 30 amp/220 volt circuit, BECAUSE a decal in the power compartment said "110/220". So I assumed the internal power logic would figure it all out, and magically reduce the voltage. NOT.

That flawed thinking caused me to replace 2 televisions, a Keurig coffee maker, one roof top air conditioner motherboard, the circuit board in the microwave, an X-Box game controller, and a hand full of smaller items.

Just Sayin'
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:35 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Flyerpicker View Post
Voice of experience here....I plugged my Newmar DP into a 30 amp/220 volt circuit, BECAUSE a decal in the power compartment said "110/220". So I assumed the internal power logic would figure it all out, and magically reduce the voltage. NOT.

That flawed thinking caused me to replace 2 televisions, a Keurig coffee maker, one roof top air conditioner motherboard, the circuit board in the microwave, an X-Box game controller, and a hand full of smaller items.

Just Sayin'
The OP was not asking or intending on plugging into a reg 30 amp 220 circuit with an adapter. He was asking about using a standard 50 amp RV outlet but using lighter gauge wire and 30 amp 2 pole breaker instead of a 50 amp 2 pole breaker. At least that's what I got when I read his question.
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Old 11-26-2015, 06:44 AM   #77
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WOW--76 posts but think we got this one solved! New rule--you cant comment unless your have read the previous 76 posts. Notwithstanding local and national codes--the issue from the beginning was making sure you didnt cross a 120v leg onto the rigs neutral leg [240 volts] or reverse polarity--both/either will cause the "magic smoke." Given the declining state of many old campgrounds these days, the need for a high-end surge-protector like Progressive Industries is more important than ever.
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Old 11-26-2015, 06:49 AM   #78
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Or....for entertainment. ...start reading from the most recent post and go to the beginning. See how long it takes you to figure out what the OP's question wss!
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Old 11-26-2015, 08:56 AM   #79
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Yes a good surge protector will save your equipment, but you must not have the key in bypass mode. That error almost cost me my RV. 220 volts in equipment designed for 110 volts can and has (in my case) caused a fire.
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Old 12-01-2015, 02:27 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by Timon View Post
Do your self a favor and run 1" or 1 1/4" PVC. The cost difference is minor and it will be easier to pull cable through and lots easier if you later change your mind and repull 3 #6s and 1 #8. Remember wire you can repull but you can't change the conduit easily.

If you ever think you might want to run any sort of data or phone lay a 3/4" PVC 6" above the power conduit and just cap the ends. It will be there if you need it.

One last thing, get a roll of that yellow caution tape and lay it in the trench after you've put about 8 or 12" of fill over the conduit then fill the rest of the trench. If someone is digging they'll hit the tape long before they hit the conduit.

Even if you have an electrician do the work you will likely save money if you dig the trench. You can rent a DitchWitch for a day normally for less than $100 or so.

Have fun digging.

How about......dig a 2 foot deep ditch, pour about 8" of concrete in it, lay.....oh...just for grins & giggles.....1-1/2" pvc in it then, fill the rest of the ditch with concrete.
Naw, lets' go 3' deep, 2' wide, & center the pipe.
<edit> almost forgot.....fill the ditch with concrete
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Old 12-01-2015, 04:55 PM   #81
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Why concrete?

The yellow tape is fine and the utilities can map the wire just with current passing.

Do contact usa by calling 811 before any digging as it Could save your butt.

While talking with them as how to submit your drawings so it can be registered...not sure how that works as we had another department that handled that back in the day.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:41 PM   #82
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Why concrete?

The yellow tape is fine and the utilities can map the wire just with current passing.

Do contact usa by calling 811 before any digging as it Could save your butt.

While talking with them as how to submit your drawings so it can be registered...not sure how that works as we had another department that handled that back in the day.
I agree, no need at all for any concrete. The depth and the schedule 40 PVC grey electrical conduit is more than enough.
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Old 12-02-2015, 07:46 AM   #83
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How about......dig a 2 foot deep ditch, pour about 8" of concrete in it, lay.....oh...just for grins & giggles.....1-1/2" pvc in it then, fill the rest of the ditch with concrete.
Naw, lets' go 3' deep, 2' wide, & center the pipe.
<edit> almost forgot.....fill the ditch with concrete
Trouble recognizing sarcasm guys?

I do pity having to get a rock saw just to get a 2' deep trench though. That must cost a bunch.
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:08 AM   #84
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What I think, how I screwed up, how I heard it was done, now 84 posts to pull 4 wires a 100'. JMO

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