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Old 04-05-2016, 07:11 PM   #85
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I would run bigger pipe and bigger wire because I'm a journeymen electrician. The NEC allows for the op to do as he stated. I would not because the cost difference is minimal. It is no different than putting a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp breaker. Your load will only pull what it can pull. As far as the 80% rule that usually just comes into play when dealing with "continuous load" ie lighting and such that is ginna run for any length of time. That's my 2 cents

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Old 04-06-2016, 09:33 AM   #86
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I'm a big proponent of principle of "buy once, cry once". If I were going thru the trouble of running (and like burying!) conduit, pulling wire and installing a power pedestal - I'd bite the bullet, spend the extra $$ and install whatever parts are necessary to provide me with a fully functional, 100% up to code, 50 amp power service. There are times when doing stuff on the cheap makes sense ... this certainly would not be one of those times for me.

2012 HR Endeavor 43' DFT, 2012 Jeep Liberty
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:25 AM   #87
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I agree
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Old 04-07-2016, 06:47 AM   #88
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Running 50A of 220v is a bit of a pain - it requires 4 conductor 6 gauge wire, which is a pain to deal with, especially when you're doing runs in conduit.
The key point here is that 30A/220v service still requires 4 wires, 3 conductors and a ground. You can drop down to 10/3 instead of 6/3, though. and it requires a dual pole breaker, though its 30A instead of 50A. It's definitely less expensive and much easier to pull wire if the run is long or has bends.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing it that way. I use a similar set-up at home myself. It gives plenty of power, including enough to run two a/c units simultaneously.

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Summers in Black Mountain, NC
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