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Old 09-10-2012, 09:04 AM   #15
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There is a 30A circuit breaker in the main load center that feeds power to the inverter when shore power is available. The inverter then "passes through" that power to the outlets it services. If you flip that breaker off, the inverter thinks there is no shore power, so it starts inverting instead of "passing through" the shore power.

The fridge and anything else served by the inverter effectively is no longer on shore power once that circuit breaker is switched off.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca View Post
I don't get it- aren't the a/c and fridge 110v appliances? How is it possible to operate them from 12v batteries without the inverter to..."invert" the power????
Thought the original poster was perhaps a bit "imprecise" in his posting I understood what he was typing.

His inverter is wired ahead of at least one of the legs in his 50 amp panel, It has a breaker that feeds it, and then it feeds the main 50 amp distribution panel, This panel feeds.. Everything in the rig. Since the inverter feeds half of it, the inverter has a breaker in front of it

Thus, the Air conditioner and the house type fridge are powered by the batteries via the inverter.

I do not recommend this, Nor do I like it since A/C units suck way too much power, but I have seen it done.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:44 PM   #17
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Now I get it!

Thanks, all...
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:02 PM   #18
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His inverter is wired ahead of at least one of the legs in his 50 amp panel,
I don't think so, wa8yxm. That would be highly unusual and is not all necessary to his technique. A standard inverter/charger set-up will be fed 120vac from the main load center. This powers the charging function as well as allowing the inverter to "pass through" 120v to downstream outlets when shore power is available. Typically the inverter/charger is fed from a 30A breaker in the load center, but that can vary with the wattage size of the inverter/charger. There is nothing that requires that breaker to be ahead of the load center main breaker.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:33 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Thought the original poster was perhaps a bit "imprecise" in his posting I understood what he was typing.

His inverter is wired ahead of at least one of the legs in his 50 amp panel, It has a breaker that feeds it, and then it feeds the main 50 amp distribution panel, This panel feeds.. Everything in the rig. Since the inverter feeds half of it, the inverter has a breaker in front of it

Thus, the Air conditioner and the house type fridge are powered by the batteries via the inverter.

I do not recommend this, Nor do I like it since A/C units suck way too much power, but I have seen it done.
No this is not the case; I'm sorry if I wasn't clear.

I believe Gary has already described it correctly. Shore power comes in via a 50A breaker than handles both legs of the circuit. The inverter has a 30A breaker inside the main breaker panel and has two breakers of its own on a subpanel that is built into the inverter. The A/C's, the hot water tank, the washing machine, and the microwave each have their own breakers in the panel.

One of the two breakers in the inverter subpanel powers all the lighting circuits, the entertainment system, etc. The other is dedicated to the residential refrigerator.

When the inverter breaker in the main panel is tripped, the inverter "thinks" there is no shore power available so its internal transfer switch connects the batteries to provide power. Therefore, the total power available for use in the MH is the shore power 30A plus the power drawn from the battery bank which could be up to another 30A.

Sorry if my original post created some confusion.
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:48 PM   #20
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I think this is more of a DP thing... and yes, it works.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:20 PM   #21
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I read the way you described it... As I have said, I have seen it done where the transfer switch was a 3-way, It could accept power from the inverter, generator or shore.. Kind of rare but....

I truly do not like putting big ticket items like water heaters or air conditioners on the inverter, For the fridge, if you don't like propane Norcold and Dometic both make high effiency electric only dual power fridges for RV use.. I have a chest freezer (by someone else) using the same technology and I'm very impressed with it. These power sippers draw LESS THAN 50 WATTS less you open the door and dang near double that by turning the light on.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:43 PM   #22
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I read the way you described it... As I have said, I have seen it done where the transfer switch was a 3-way, It could accept power from the inverter, generator or shore.. Kind of rare but....

I truly do not like putting big ticket items like water heaters or air conditioners on the inverter, For the fridge, if you don't like propane Norcold and Dometic both make high effiency electric only dual power fridges for RV use.. I have a chest freezer (by someone else) using the same technology and I'm very impressed with it. These power sippers draw LESS THAN 50 WATTS less you open the door and dang near double that by turning the light on.
I think we continue to have a miscommunication; I do not have any "big ticket" items on the the inverter, just the residential fridge and the transfer switch is just an ordinary one. What seems to be the source of the confusion is that the inverter itself has an internal transfer switch in addition to the main one for the coach itself.

The fridge draws an average of less than 100W and is much larger than the any dual power fridge I am aware of. We had investigated all the alternatives before we went with a residential. As far as I am aware there is no way to get a unit as large as the 18 cu ft we have.

It's a totally personal decision and I respect your opinion but chose to go a different route. Lots of people are choosing to go residential; the energy efficiency of the newer units makes them close competitors to the high efficiency RV and marine ones.
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