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Old 12-20-2011, 02:14 AM   #15
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I just installed two 6 volt golf cart batteries from Costco. The purchase was based on the cross country trip we will be taking in the early fall. If there is a problem with the batteries I can always find a Costco. Have had problems finding Sam's club from state to state.
They were 89.99 a piece.
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:07 AM   #16
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Here's the no BS difference between all the batteries in this discussion. Read carefully and you will become an expert on RV batteries.

Deep Cycle Battery FAQ

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Old 12-20-2011, 06:30 PM   #17
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Batteries leave plugged in or not

Should you leave your MH plugged in all the time just asking
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:23 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by gaugeguy View Post
Here's the no BS difference between all the batteries in this discussion. Read carefully and you will become an expert on RV batteries.

Deep Cycle Battery FAQ

Thanks for the link. Good info on batteries and inverters. Although they seem to be primarily suppliers for solar power, a lot of the info is applicable to RVs. I spent almost an hour reading up on inverters.
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:27 AM   #19
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Should you leave your MH plugged in all the time just asking
It depends. If you have a 3-stage inverter/charger of converter/charger, it should not overcharge the batteries, and it's OK to stay plugged in. We are full-timers, and we are plugged in 24/7 except for when we are driving, and even then we sometimes run the generator. Even with a 3-stage charger, if you leave the RV plugged in, check the water level in the batteries at least monthly.

On the other hand, if your charger is only single-stage, then it can end up overcharging the batteries, and it's best not to leave the RV plugged in.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:11 AM   #20
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Should you leave your MH plugged in all the time just asking
Not to hijack my own thread but should I keep it plugged in? I use the motor home about once a month or at least every other month. So it When it is I home I usually do have it plugged in.

Thank you for all of the great advice. I was in a rush to get the batteries so that my wife and inlaws could leave out of town two days later. I ended up finding batteries at a local auto part store but wish I could have waited so that I could bought some at Sams or Costco.
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:25 AM   #21
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I also welcome you to the irv2.com discussion forums! Yes that is satisfactory. 12V batteries are available in many different sizes and amp.hrs. Do not buy a starting battery, a deep cycle is made for house batteries. I think the Walmart MAXX marine battery is rated at 225 AH.
I agree with the statment someone else made that if it says MARINE on it it is NOT a deep cycle, It is a starting battery,, It may be a bit better than a regular automotive starting battery (w/o Marine on it) but not much.. The major diff between what starts your car, and what starts your boat is car batteries are rated for COLD (Zero degrees (F) cranking amps) And Marine are only rated for zero (C) and above (above freezing) use) . Neither is rated for 50 percent discharge.


However more importantly.. Wall Mart rates their batteries at the 1 amp discharge rate,, So the MAXX 28 is a 125 hour at one amp battery

But the Amp Hours are closer to 100 (At the 20 hour rate) I know. I have 2 of them.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:10 PM   #22
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Not to hijack my own thread but should I keep it plugged in? I use the motor home about once a month or at least every other month. So it When it is I home I usually do have it plugged in.

Thank you for all of the great advice. I was in a rush to get the batteries so that my wife and inlaws could leave out of town two days later. I ended up finding batteries at a local auto part store but wish I could have waited so that I could bought some at Sams or Costco.
See my answer to Big Bobby in post #19 above.
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:07 PM   #23
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Cliff,

All Trojan batteries have a CCA rating.

Jim
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Old 01-14-2012, 01:45 AM   #24
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I agree, kinda like an SUV. None have the ride and comfort of a sedan, nor do they have the capabilities of an off-road 4X4. I offered a bad example to the OP, for which I apoligize. A better offering is the 12VDC, 190AH, deep cycle battery from from Interstate. Two of them result in 380AH.
There are way too many battery tutorials on the internet, and many threads here explaining the differences for us to begin yet another debate/discussion here.
Two Interstate U-2200's will give you 230 amp hours and last much longer. Our 4 U-2200's are now 9 years old, but this morning I looked closely at them and the cases are bulging. I also had to replace the two 9 year old starting batteries this morning.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:55 AM   #25
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re: "it isn't a true deep cycle battery"

if you ever find an objective, empirical, and useful measure that will help me tell the difference between one of these batteries, a 'Marine/RV battery' and an SLI battery, please let me know.
What is an "SLI"?

There are many threads in assorted forums that say something like "I think I killed my batteries" or "Can these batteries be saved"

Every one of these are almost identical.. I accidently ran my batteries ALL THE WAY DOWN, (we are talking single digit resting voltage on a 12 volt battery here) Can they be restored or recharged.


The answer to that question is the difference between a DEEP CYCLE and a Starting or Marine/Deep cycle battery.

My Interstate Golf Car batteries (U-2200 Work-a-holics) have been discharged way too far (below 50 percent0 several times and at over six years old are still going strong, Not quite as strong as when new, but still beyond the ability of my load tester to overload (it's only 450 amps, I know it say s 500 on it but it only goes to 450)


Starting batteries,,< Well perhaps once but to be honet every time Mine have dropped into single digits I've had to replace them.

Marine Deep cycle, Likewise.


But the true deep cycles come back nearly all the way. At least if you recharge them in time.


Of you search the web you will find a description of the differneces , both physical and chemical between the two types of batteries. There are differences.

What there is not is a difference in amp hour capacity. Or voltage, and since that's what we see on the label, you won't see the difference there.

And for those who note that my Work-a-holics can (And have) been used to start the coach.. Well true, but the chassis battery is about 80 amp hours capacity. so the starting load is "Big" by the standards of that battery.

The Work-a-holics are 220 amp hours. and the differnece is kind of like my wife and I picking up her mobility scooter.. For 330 pound me, who used to work as a roofer, 250 pounds of scooter is a good load, but not impossible. For far lighter, and not nearly as well muscled her, It's impossible.

Loads she struggles to carry (like the starting current for the chassis battery) are one hand for me, (like the same current for the nearly 3 times as large house batteries)


She's not that much smaller than me though

(I do admit my lifting ability is part mental, part physical, I was trained to lift heavy loads at a young age. Worked the hay loft tossing 80 pound bails of hay over my head)
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:46 PM   #26
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FWIF In my experience battery failure is usually one cell bad which causes the charger to try to overcome that problem. The result is that the other cells are overcharging and boiling away their water. If you choose 12 volt batteries in Parallel you will have twice as many cells that may fail.
Like you, when my batteries needed replacement I considered 12volt but ultimately went to Sams Club and got the 6volt versions.

Have a nice day - Darrel
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:06 PM   #27
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What is an "SLI"?
SLI Batteries: Starting Lighting and Ignition. (typical automotive battery)
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:43 PM   #28
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The data indicates that about 80% of lead acid battery failures are due to sulfation - i.e. age - that is often aggravated by abuse or poor use and maintenance practice.

If someone abuses their batteries, telling them to get a different brand or one labeled a different way (or to use a different voltage in the battery bank) is not going to solve their problem.

I do understand that the 'deep cycle battery as a distinct type' thing is quite prevalent and quite strongly held as an emotional belief. It is all over the place. The problem is that, for the batteries commonly available at retail for the RVer, there is no measure or obvious characteristic that shows any such distinction.

There are a few things to keep in mind that apply to all lead acid batteries..

1) all suffer if routinely discharged deeply

2) any battery run down below 80% depth of discharge suffers risks such as a reverse charged cell that can cause failure (this is one reason why many high energy devices will have low voltage shutoffs)

3) life as measured by discharge cycles tends to increase as routine depth of discharge (DoD) decreases. Optimum seems to be around 20% DoD and most cost effective at around 50%.

4) cycle life is not an issue in typical RV usage patterns. At 20% to 50% DoD cycles, even an SLI battery can handle 250 or more cycles and that is the number of weekends in a 5 year expected battery life.

5) variables in available battery energy capacity are many and significant so measures within a 20% range are within the margins of error

There are differences in batteries as manufacturers trade off cost, capacity, and ruggedness in their line to serve various markets and needs. What is offered at retail may not represent the entire gamut of what is available so you have to choose what is best for your needs from what is available. Harping on things like 'true deep cycle battery' is, IMHO, a distraction more than a service. If you can't get a measure for it, you can't manage it and it isn't going to do you much good.

Believe what you want: my suggestion is to take what you find on the net (and elsewhere) with caution. Read critically. Use the evidence of your own eyes and do your own thinking. (and do please think rather than just follow some pied piper ...)
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