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Old 06-04-2012, 06:28 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by steelheadbluesman View Post
My Michelins say 3905. I bought the rig brand new from the dealer in mid-2007, virtually no miles. So, either the tires sat in a warehouse, presumably unmounted, or they sat mounted on the chassis, right? How old are they in the real world? 5, 6. or 7 yrs? Anybody's guess, I suppose....

Also. I'm curious about all those chunks of tread I see scattered all over the highways. Some are seriously large and even have 'belt' material in them. Some are strewn for a hundred yards -- I see them every time I travel. Blowouts? Lost retreads? I suspect the latter. The question of danger to others has been brought up... How dangerous are older tires on my MH, compared to retreads blowing apart on big tractor-trailer rigs?

Also, are there any real statistics on big-rig tire failures, causes, age, etc., or do we pretty much just have opinions here?




I know I'm asking a lot, but these safety issues are important.... Thanks, I'm open to any input.
I am a retired cross country trucker. I do not think there are any hard statistics on tires. A tires mortality is similar to ours. how we have taken care of our selves, and how old we are has a bearing on when we will die Predicting a tires life is like predicting our own
. . You mention the peices of rubber on the highway, some with belting. In my 4 million miles of trucking experience, this is my observation; The rubber on the road is seldom the results of a recapping failure. It is usally a carcus failure that usually had side wall failure, I base this on this fact; It would be exceptionally rare to see a tire throw its tread and still maintain its air pressure...... Many times when a truck tire fails it has been recapped. It may very well have already traveled 250 to 300,000 miles before it was recapped. Now it may have another 150,000 miles after being recapped. Put those total miles together, it could be as much as 450,000 miles. Bottom line... its called fatigue.. Tires are made up of wire strands. How many times will a peice of wire bend before it breaks??? good travels, old trucker
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:54 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by wb7auk View Post
In your post you indicate the center of gravity was near the rear wheels. That maybe
at rest but once underway depending on what forces are applied to the vehicle the
center of gravity can change a bunch.
Even if fuel, water and effluent are all full they would be about 7% of total weight. If they are full then no slosh and no CG change. So max CG shift would occur at less than that as a percent of weight. Every thing else is bolted down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wb7auk View Post
http://www.edccorp.com/library/TechRefPdfs/EDC-0021.pdf

This is one of the studies.
What you are interested in is near the end of the study
This indicated bump steer due to rear tire blow out was minimal. The interesting thing was front tire understeer due to blow out. Rear tire was oversteer, in our case with duals, you'd have to lose both of them.

The problem with your and my studies is neither one tests a vehical with the dynamic instability of a DP MH. Where the tail wags the dog.

We know from the wander threads that steering alignment, tire inflation and geometry are all critical for the motor home to be stable. Upset these with a blowout and I convinced that that is the likely worst case.

Thank you for helping me understand this better.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:26 AM   #59
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A sidewall blowout at 60 mph convinced me to replace my 6 year old tires on my 2005 Allegro Bus. And yes, they looked brand new, were properly inflated, and the MH is stored inside a building when not in use. Live and learn!
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:30 AM   #60
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This indicated bump steer due to rear tire blow out was minimal. The interesting thing was front tire understeer due to blow out. Rear tire was oversteer, in our case with duals, you'd have to lose both of them.

The problem with your and my studies is neither one tests a vehical with the dynamic instability of a DP MH. Where the tail wags the dog.

We know from the wander threads that steering alignment, tire inflation and geometry are all critical for the motor home to be stable. Upset these with a blowout and I convinced that that is the likely worst case.

Thank you for helping me understand this better.[/QUOTE]

That is why I said for it to apply both rear duals would have to blow.
I should have said if one goes not to bad but if for some reason both
go any little over correction by the driver can cause a major reaction
to the rear of the vehicle unlike the lost of a tire on the front.
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Old 06-15-2012, 06:57 AM   #61
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Dilemma. I am on the original Michilen tires on our '05 Adventurer. Our new to us coach is right at 10,000 miles. So I presume the tires are original. They have some cracks on the side walls. Not a lot, but enough to make me think about safety. There is plenty of tread and they feel fine to the touch. Two "experts" have told me they're fine for a few thousand miles. They say because of the many ply's.... they are safe. Can someone shed light? I'm on a beyond tight budget right now thanks to a toad.
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:16 AM   #62
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Dilemma. I am on the original Michilen tires on our '05 Adventurer. Our new to us coach is right at 10,000 miles. So I presume the tires are original. They have some cracks on the side walls. Not a lot, but enough to make me think about safety. There is plenty of tread and they feel fine to the touch. Two "experts" have told me they're fine for a few thousand miles. They say because of the many ply's.... they are safe. Can someone shed light? I'm on a beyond tight budget right now thanks to a toad.
Earlier this week I lost the tread from a front tire. The carcass was fine, no air loss, not a retread and the tread was excellent but the tire was '05. Got luckly, low speed 'cause I felt "something" and the only damage was the fresh air intake tube for the vac can.

All 6 are 1612's now!!
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:46 AM   #63
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Earlier this week I lost the tread from a front tire. The carcass was fine, no air loss, not a retread and the tread was excellent but the tire was '05. Got luckly, low speed 'cause I felt "something" and the only damage was the fresh air intake tube for the vac can.

All 6 are 1612's now!!
ok... but what was the "cause" of the tire failure? You cannot blame age alone. Puncture? Rupture??
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:01 AM   #64
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Dilemma. I am on the original Michilen tires on our '05 Adventurer. Our new to us coach is right at 10,000 miles. So I presume the tires are original. They have some cracks on the side walls. Not a lot, but enough to make me think about safety. There is plenty of tread and they feel fine to the touch. Two "experts" have told me they're fine for a few thousand miles. They say because of the many ply's.... they are safe. Can someone shed light? I'm on a beyond tight budget right now thanks to a toad.
I'm not an expert but I think they should be replaced. They are likely 7 years old. I think Michelin typically guarantees their rubber for 6 years. There is a date code on the tires that will tell you when they were made. I've been told that cracks in the sidewall is usually caused by sunlight UV damage. That's why people use wheel covers. They might last a few thousand miles but a side wall blow out at highway speed with a toad is not something I would ever want to experience. Furthermore, if someone was hurt, you could count on a law suit which you would probably lose.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:22 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by MaxTurner1 View Post
Dilemma. I am on the original Michilen tires on our '05 Adventurer. Our new to us coach is right at 10,000 miles. So I presume the tires are original. They have some cracks on the side walls. Not a lot, but enough to make me think about safety. There is plenty of tread and they feel fine to the touch. Two "experts" have told me they're fine for a few thousand miles. They say because of the many ply's.... they are safe. Can someone shed light? I'm on a beyond tight budget right now thanks to a toad.
From the Michelin brochure:
AGING, WEATHER CHECKING, AND
OZONE CRACKING
During the pre-trip inspection, be sure to check the tires for signs of aging, weather checking, and/or ozone cracking — these show up as tiny cracks in the rubber surface on the sidewall of the tire. If the cracks are less than 1⁄32" deep, the tire is fine to run. Between 1⁄32" and 2⁄ 32",the tire is suspect and should be examined by the MICHELIN dealer. If the cracks are any deeper than 2⁄32", the tire should be replaced immediately.
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:15 AM   #66
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From the Michelin brochure:
AGING, WEATHER CHECKING, AND
OZONE CRACKING
During the pre-trip inspection, be sure to check the tires for signs of aging, weather checking, and/or ozone cracking these show up as tiny cracks in the rubber surface on the sidewall of the tire. If the cracks are less than 1⁄32" deep, the tire is fine to run. Between 1⁄32" and 2⁄ 32",the tire is suspect and should be examined by the MICHELIN dealer. If the cracks are any deeper than 2⁄32", the tire should be replaced immediately.
Good (that is to say, usable) info -- thanks.
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:25 AM   #67
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But how fast do the go? 35/40 stop and go. Not 65-70 over the road, constant.
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:09 AM   #68
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What size Michelin Tire are you looking at? We just looked at ZXE2 2 for $840.? FMCA has them for $640! Thanks, John
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:46 AM   #69
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Thanks to all for the input. They do look like ozone cracking. That said I don't have a gauge to measure them. So it's off to the maker's store and see if the Michelin man says they're safe. My freeway speed is sometimes 70.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:06 AM   #70
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Replaced the steer tires at 5 years and the rear tires at 6 years. Just felt safer doing this. Replaced 19.5" G670's with G670's. Got a good deal with the Rogers, MN Camping World.
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