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Old 10-03-2015, 03:09 PM   #15
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I've got a residential refrigerator with an ice maker. I was told that air doesn't make it past the water valve too well. So, I had the idea of putting a T fitting and a valve in the water line to the fridge. Close the water line and use a vacuum pump to pull the water out of the fridge. Then use air to blow the water out of the rest of the line. Am I on the right track or should I just run air into the fridge?
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Old 10-03-2015, 03:17 PM   #16
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X2 No reason for the AF except in the lines.
Should have read no reason for the AF except in the traps
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Old 10-03-2015, 03:29 PM   #17
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I camped year round up northern NH..temps would hit -23 some times.. Never had an issue with busted pipes.. I would do just as recommended... Before I left or a few weeks.. I would disconnect the water line and blow everything out.. Don't forget the toilets.....The only place I would use antifreeze would be the black tank, grey tank , traps and leave about 4-5" in the toilet..
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Old 10-03-2015, 03:48 PM   #18
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On my first 2 coaches compressed air worked well because we did not have a ice maker or a washer/dryer. Now we do and the compressed air does not do as well. I blow it down for about 5 minutes and then spend $9.00 to run RV antifreeze thru it. That takes another 10 minutes. Now I do not need to worry about replacing any valves, fitting or lines etc or the $120 per hour rate to get something fixed. Yes, do put RV AF in all of the traps.
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Old 10-03-2015, 09:41 PM   #19
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For ice maker leave air on system and leave ice maker on.

When it cycles it will push water out then the air will blast it.

It may take a few cycles.

Having a t valve at the back of the unit would allow draining filter if present and line to unit then cycle unit to blow out rest.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:41 AM   #20
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I've got a residential refrigerator with an ice maker. I was told that air doesn't make it past the water valve too well. So, I had the idea of putting a T fitting and a valve in the water line to the fridge. Close the water line and use a vacuum pump to pull the water out of the fridge. Then use air to blow the water out of the rest of the line. Am I on the right track or should I just run air into the fridge?
Crankshaft
If the water supply line soleniod valve in the ice maker is closed the compressed air will not purge the line beyond that valve..... simply crack that fitting to drain any water out.
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Old 10-09-2015, 04:50 PM   #21
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I do both air and pink stuff...extra insurance while i sleep at night at 20 below.....don't forget the outside shower unit.......
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Old 10-09-2015, 05:32 PM   #22
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I look at antifreeze as insurance except its cheap. What's the cost of just one frozen cracked line and the trouble it could cause.
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Old 10-09-2015, 07:39 PM   #23
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Be sure you remember to blow the water out of the kitchen sink spray attachment. I heard of a guy that forgot that and I, uh, I mean he had to replace the sprayer.

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Old 10-10-2015, 08:07 AM   #24
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I look at antifreeze as insurance except its cheap. What's the cost of just one frozen cracked line and the trouble it could cause.
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I can tell you from experience that RV antifreeze is not necessary in all RV fresh water systems.

Because my water heater has no water heater bypass I do not use RV antifreeze.....(when you have no water heater bypass the additional 10 gal of RV antifreeze required to winterize the fresh water system is defiantly NOT CHEAP).

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Old 10-10-2015, 08:22 AM   #25
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WNY -30 for multiple days last winter.

Air and pink stuff. No bills for repairs.

Also if you have a Girard water heater. Air is not enough because it acts as a low point. According to their engineer I spoke to.

I got Camco pink stuff for $3.99.


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Old 10-10-2015, 08:49 AM   #26
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Be sure you remember to blow the water out of the kitchen sink spray attachment. I heard of a guy that forgot that and I, uh, I mean he had to replace the sprayer.

Glenn
Also remember the outside shower. I also remove my water filter before I winterize.
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Old 10-10-2015, 09:54 AM   #27
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WNY -30 for multiple days last winter.
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What does WNY mean?
Western New York?
What's Your Name?
Something else?
Wondering
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Old 10-10-2015, 10:26 AM   #28
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Personally I do not trust that when the coach was built the manufacturer slopes all water lines to either a low point drain or the water inlet valve without a low point or loop. If there is a low spot in on of the lines and ALL the water isn't removed from the system it will pool in the low spot. If enough water collects in a low spot it will freeze and potentially break a water line.

The trouble is that all the lines aren't visible without climbing inside compartments or removing panels, so you don't know if all runs are straight and sloped in the right direction. All you need is for a single line to be long enough to have a low spot or a loop to cause problems.

We also live in Wisconsin and have used the pink stuff in our motorhomes for the past 15 years. Our systems have used 3 gallons or less to winterize the entire fresh water system. It's now on sale for $1.99 per gallon at Ace hardware stores. That's cheap insurance against potentially expensive repairs.

Keep in mind the RV antifreeze will turn to slush in the coldest weather. The difference is that it does not expand when it freezes. No expansion equals no broken parts.
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