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Old 10-02-2015, 08:30 PM   #1
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Air compressor and winterization

I've never winterized my motorhome. I have a new "DeWalt DWFP55126 6-gallon 165 psi pancake compressor," which supposedly doesn't use added oil. Can I safely us this compressor to blow out the water lines in the motorhome? Thanks for any advice.

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Old 10-02-2015, 08:57 PM   #2
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jjva343,
yes,
set the regulator at 40 psi.
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Old 10-02-2015, 09:11 PM   #3
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Yes, set the compressor at 40 psi and blow each faucet individually. Do it at least twice with some time between each faucet. Don't forget the refrigerator ice maker or the washer/dryer. Check the water heater and make sure to open the drain plug. If you want to make sure everything is winter safe then fill the system with PINK RV antifreeze from Lowes or Menards etc. It will likely take about 3 gallons. If you do this make sure the water heater bypass is closed.
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Old 10-03-2015, 02:26 AM   #4
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newby question, please be gentle

If you use compressed air to blow out the water lines, why do you need to put in anti-freeze?
I understand the need for anti-freeze in the traps, but why the water lines?
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Old 10-03-2015, 06:23 AM   #5
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Your right after blowing the system out you don't need to fill the system with non-toxic AF, just the traps. Still some people do that???. I've used air for 40+ years never adding AF to the lines but too the traps and never had a problem. Too each his own! Do whatever makes you happy.
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Old 10-03-2015, 06:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjva343 View Post
I've never winterized my motorhome. I have a new "DeWalt DWFP55126 6-gallon 165 psi pancake compressor," which supposedly doesn't use added oil. Can I safely us this compressor to blow out the water lines in the motorhome? Thanks for any advice.

Winterizing??? Hummm...

I'm not familiar with the term. Does it have something to do with living in a cold climate?!?!??!?!?!?
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:31 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by RayJr View Post
Your right after blowing the system out you don't need to fill the system with non-toxic AF, just the traps. Still some people do that???. I've used air for 40+ years never adding AF to the lines but too the traps and never had a problem. Too each his own! Do whatever makes you happy.
X2 No reason for the AF except in the lines.
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Old 10-03-2015, 08:29 AM   #8
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newby question, please be gentle

If you use compressed air to blow out the water lines, why do you need to put in anti-freeze?
I understand the need for anti-freeze in the traps, but why the water lines?
Take a hose feel with water pick up each end then hook your air. Blow all day the water will still be in the hose . It just takes a low spot.
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Old 10-03-2015, 09:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJr View Post
Your right after blowing the system out you don't need to fill the system with non-toxic AF, just the traps. Still some people do that???. I've used air for 40+ years never adding AF to the lines but too the traps and never had a problem. Too each his own! Do whatever makes you happy.
I have neither "blown out" or "put RV antifreeze into" my fresh water system for winter storage in Wisconsin for 14 years.
I simply "gravity drain" EVERYTHING... and I've never had a freeze related problem.
I do put 1 cup full of RV antifreeze in each P-trap and run 2-3 cups full of RV antifreeze into/through the Splendide washer drain pump.

BTW that is not my recommendation ....just how I winterize my coach for subzero outside storage.

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Old 10-03-2015, 09:52 AM   #10
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If you have good low point drains of which may be in more than one place you should be able to get most water out.

For ice maker leave it on with air attached until no ice.

If little bits of water left may not be issue if it does not fill a line as it will flow as it freezes.

Water Heater is important and has a drain too.

Leave faucets on after done.

Provide your rv description so others may provide specific to your unit advice.
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:04 AM   #11
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using antifreeze in the lines is just going the extra mile in trying to protect your water system. dont forget the water heater. i cant tell you how many water heater tanks i have replaced because of the bypass. i lived in rockford il for years, and winterized hundreds of coaches. when copper lines were used in rv's, we made lots of money repairing them because people just drained them, and did not blow them out. the plastic lives are far more forgiving.
blowing out the lines and using antifreeze is just more protection. thats all. even at that, it depends on the expertise of the person doing the job.
i live in arizona now, and keep my motorhome plugged in with the furnace set at 40 degrees. never frozen in the last 15 years. even though it gets to 10 degrees here sometimes overnight.
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:21 AM   #12
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Just one little suggestion when blowing out the lines. Empty the hot water tank first. Then the compressed air can use the hot water tank as a compressed air storage tank. Then walk around the camper and open each faucet one at a time until air comes out.

I liked the ice maker suggestion. Good idea!
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:22 AM   #13
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Low point drains and fresh water tank drain. Either the compressor OR anti freeze and if compressor put at 40 psi and blowwwww alot, at least two or more times at each outlet. Some folks have sensitivity (real or imagined) to the "nontoxic" stuff and just don't use it.

Either way be diligent.

I saved alot of money buying my bigfoot from someone that let the water heater freeze an burst. Easy fix, but nobody else wanted to buy it. My gain.
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Old 10-03-2015, 11:15 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
If you have good low point drains of which may be in more than one place you should be able to get most water out.

For ice maker leave it on with air attached until no ice.

If little bits of water left may not be issue if it does not fill a line as it will flow as it freezes.

Water Heater is important and has a drain too.

Leave faucets on after done.

Provide your rv description so others may provide specific to your unit advice.
It's a 2005 Damon Astoria 3539. It has a brand new, used only once, one piece Splendide washer/dryer. Any specific advice as to where to find the low points to empty various lines, and how to handle the washer, will be appreciated. Especially, the washer/dryer. Many thanks, as always. I've always gotten good advice here.
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