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Old 06-25-2012, 07:24 AM   #1
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Air Dump & Dash A/C Unit

On my recently purchased 2001 HR Endeavor, there is a switch labeled AIR DUMP on the dash. I know what it does in theory, but what "state" does the vehicle need to be in to get it to operate, lowering and raising the vehicle?

Does the engine need to be running? Do you have to press and hold the switch or just press and release?

Another issue: The A/C unit in the dash is weak! The fan set at full blast and the unit set to Max/AC just is not getting the job done, though the dealer states it's operating to spec. Anybody with a similar unit having this problem or found a cure?
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:32 AM   #2
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Drum,
Hello, I have a 2001 Monaco, on mine the motor is off and the switch has to be on for the air to dump, I normally pump my brake down to about 80 lbs then hold the switch in till it dumps with the key on motor off. On your other issue how cold is the air coming out of the vent?
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:39 AM   #3
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The air coming out of the dash unit is cool, but certainly not cold, and the velocity of the air coming out of the vents seems low to us.
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:48 AM   #4
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Drum,
I still need to know what the air temp coming out is ..... It will run about 30 degrees lower than the outside temp, As a rule of thumb.The motor ac will only cool the front not the whole coach.
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:03 AM   #5
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Oh, I know it won't cool the coach. But if it typically runs ~30 degrees cooler than the outside temp (which was around 90 on the day in question), then I don't know for certain, but certainly don't think the cold air from the dash vents was anywhere near 60 degrees. Like I said, you could feel cool air from the dash vents, but certainly not what you'd call cold air like Max/AC usually puts out in a truck or car.

It may just be that in-dash unit needs a recharge, but the fan on it ain't exactly a world beater either.
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:42 AM   #6
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Could be low on 134a or the control my not be closing the heat off completely, or not letting the flapper to close to the air side,( could be low vacuum) could be many things. if you know someone who has a set of A/C gauges. I would have that checked first then try to see if the heat has shut off valves, close those if you have them. low airflow could be the fan the fan motor main control not closing, so many things. A/C gauges will tell you alot... id the system is low or blocked ..........Remember the A/C is coming from the motor is you have a rear motor it has to travel from front to rear... Low air blowing could be a blockage also.....Just my best guess
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Old 06-25-2012, 01:37 PM   #7
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Regarding the air dump, it may be there but you may not need to use it.

Ours has both air dump for the tanks to purge water and air, and air dump for the suspension.

The suspension also is dumped by the leveler, so we do not need to touch that one, but it is there anyway.

Now for the ac.
Do NOT guess, guesses can cost money and we do not want that.

DO get a thermometer, either one of those with a dial like the HVAC guys use, or an IR gun type.

Normal cooling is only about 20 degrees across the evaporator, sometimes a little more, on really hot days a little less.

There are controls that limit how cold the evaporator gets to avoid icing.

Place the control on MAX, this then uses the inside air.

If using the gun type you need a good "target" to read.

Place some masking tape on the vent so you have a tag like a flag in the wind.

This will soon match the temperature of the air pasing it, read it with the gun, you also may want to read the vent and other areas to get the average temperature.

Measure both the air going in near the floor vent and the air coming out of the dash vents, if around 20 degrees difference then it is doing the proper amount of cooling, more is better, less than 15 is not so good.

Make sure the hot water valve is fully closed, here find the water lines going into the heater/ac unit, read both, if the valve is closed then they should be cool, not HOT.

If both ate warm to the touch, and reading with the gun indicates one is much warmer than the ambient area with the other close, then the valve may be partially open allowing hot engine water to also heat the air.

Retest after engine is cooled down, wait until the next day, it should only take a few minutes for the flags the match the air temperature, longer for the engine to get hot, measure the air temperatures and double check the difference, then let it go until the engine is at running temerature, if the difference goes DOWN then the valve is not fully closed.

You have a 2001 model year, that one has R134.

R134 has smaller molecules than R-12, so the seals, rubber hoses and other materials are of better quality to meet this need, combined with rules requiring the manufacturers to build them better to leak less.

It may be low on R134, check first to insure the dust caps are in place and tight, the schreader valves were not designed for the constant high pressure of the R134, this is the most common leak point, the cap is left loose, missing or the o-ring inside the cap is damaged or gone, check these, if above symptoms in place then you very well could be low, make sure you have good caps before you leave the place where the work is done.

These are just suggestions, please pass along what you find!
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:24 PM   #8
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I set my dash AC up so the vent that sucks that hot air in off the road is closed (like it is when on "max") permanently. I can't think of an occasion where I want to heat up cold outside air with the heater, or cool off hot outside air with the AC. In both cases, I'm generally way further ahead with that unit pulling air from inside the coach...

Regarding the "dump", from what I've seen, some will with the engine running, and some will with the engine off, key on. Some need engine off with key AND leveling system on (like mine). Too many different ways to plumb the system to know how yours works for sure.
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