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Old 05-08-2011, 12:38 AM   #15
Rom
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Well, just had mine done last week; the service shop turn the fridge on to test and found out that the circuit board was toast so, I told them to change it and re-test. They said it's now working fine. When I got home, powered up the fridge using AC, then gas and it looks like it's working. Now the real test would be next week when we go out on our first camping trip. Hopefully, this revision D or E works.
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:29 AM   #16
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It is true that the earlier versions of the fail-safe were prone to a false-positive alarm. They know that, admit it, and Rev D fixes it.

I currently have a Rev'A installed since I was a very early adopter, but also carry a Rev D on board should the original fail.
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Old 05-08-2011, 05:10 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCVJeff
It is true that the earlier versions of the fail-safe were prone to a false-positive alarm. They know that, admit it, and Rev D fixes it.

I currently have a Rev'A installed since I was a very early adopter, but also carry a Rev D on board should the original fail.
How did you get a spare? Pray tell.
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Old 05-08-2011, 05:45 AM   #18
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The shelves and doors from our 1200 are in the garage. The unit itself is on a cart in the middle of the RV. My neighbor is helping me carry it out today.

The household type, counter depth gets delivered Saturday. I guess you can tell we are done with the Norcold.
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:14 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by HD4Mark
The shelves and doors from our 1200 are in the garage. The unit itself is on a cart in the middle of the RV. My neighbor is helping me carry it out today.

The household type, counter depth gets delivered Saturday. I guess you can tell we are done with the Norcold.
Sounds great. Good luck. How are you going to secure the new one from moving around? Also how wide is the Norcold without doors?I have 24 3/8". Hope it's enough when my turn comes.
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:52 AM   #20
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Sounds great. Good luck. How are you going to secure the new one from moving around? Also how wide is the Norcold without doors?I have 24 3/8". Hope it's enough when my turn comes.
Cliff,
I'm not sure how we will secure it yet. Won't know for sure until I get a close look at it. I believe that it will be a tight enough fit that sliding foward out of the cabinet will be the only concern. L/R and back there will be nowhere to go. The height should also be tight enough so it can't tip.

On the way out to get the paper I measured it and think you are very close. It depends on whether you plan to keep or sell it. Without the cooling unit, hinges and the digital readout it was right about at 24" deep. With all the stuff still on ours, without the doors you won't make it. We have 29" max and I already removed the passenger seat to make it a little easier. If you are junking it, you could butcher it to get it out. Chain saw comes to mind here. Our replacement is a Samsung RF197ACBP the depth without doors is listed at 28 1/2 so it is a tight squeeze for us but again you won't make it. I hope they weren't kidding about the depth or we will have to go through a window. I may have to take the entry door off the RV as it is.
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Old 05-08-2011, 11:27 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clifftall

How did you get a spare? Pray tell.
Shhhhhh....
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Old 05-08-2011, 11:46 AM   #22
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Shhhhhh....
You started it so you gotta finish it. Lol .Nice to be a kid again.
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:11 PM   #23
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The biggest dis-service an RV manfacturer makes is to put an RV type refrigerator in an RV, yes, I know, this makes it so I can go into the back country, bah.
We spent 8 days in the middle of the desert at Quartzsite using our residential type refer and the genset only ran twice a day, early in the morning and I stated it an hour or so before bed. Yes I have 8 house batteries, but they are mariginal at best and this is the year we replace them. RV refers are just a big bunch of junk, if you have the choice to replace it with a resdndial unit, do so, the money is about the same once you consider the cabinet work remodel costs and inverter. They will last longer, keep your food colder and you will like it better over time. I speak from 28 years of RV'ing experience and note my signature, I fix them, and will continue to take money for them, because they are junk.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:06 PM   #24
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It is true that the earlier versions of the fail-safe were prone to a false-positive alarm. They know that, admit it, and Rev D fixes it...
Our Rev D just failed a couple of weeks ago, so I don't think they have it figured out yet.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:52 PM   #25
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Our Rev D just failed a couple of weeks ago, so I don't think they have it figured out yet.
22 more letters to go! Then they start in on number revisions.

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Old 05-08-2011, 09:18 PM   #26
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Nope! It then becomes AA-ZZ, to many before the numbers hit.

aa, ab, ac
ba, bb, bc
ca, cb, cc
zz
aa1, ab1, ac1

This could take a long, long time.
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:14 PM   #27
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We had our cooling unit replaced about 10 years ago. The serial # is NOT in the range of the current #'s. But each year I end up removing and cleaning the rust flakes out of the burner. Otherwise the refrigerator just keeps working (N621 2 door).
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:33 PM   #28
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YUP - RV refrigerators are junk - or is it just the NEWER ones?

The Dometic in our '88 Kit 5er is the OEM, we bought it new - and has NEVER had an issue other than a failed $5 thermocouple several years back. It does a good enough job that we're using it as a spare freezer - easily keeps the refrigerator section down at 20 degrees on the bottom shelf, 10 degrees at the top.

Yeah - the freezing unit in the OEM Norcold in our '88 Winnie Super Chief DID fail after 22 years - but then, how long will a typical residential refrigerator last - and IT has the luxury of sitting level and still in the same spot, year after year...

Like the Dometic in the 5er, we are also using the Norcold as extra freezer space - and it keeps the refrigerator section at those same low temps as does the Dometic...

Couldn't be happier with our "junk" RV refrigerators...
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